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Discussion Starter #1
Im planning on purchasing a new 520 chain and sprockets. My first question is: why dont people use an 18 front and maybe a 47 or 48 rear? Im not sure if the front sprocket will fit but if it does, wouldn't it cut down on the stress of the chain? Second question, Moving to a 520 set Im looking for the highest tensile strength chain I can get. Im wondering what peoples experience are. Im looking at the: RK 520ZXW (9450 lbs/Ft) the EK 520ZZ or the 5203D ( both have 9400 ft/Lb tensile strength so Im not sure what the real differences are. ( List something else if you think its better please ) Finally I know there are plenty of front and rear sprockets. Im trying to find out what everyone's wear has been like with any given brand. Thanks for the help!!!
575385
 

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You should listen to me. No, seriously, listen to
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I'm unaware of the EK 520ZZ. There is a 520ZZZ. Motomummy used to refuse to sell it in a kit with an aluminum rear sprocket, claiming it was stronger than the sprocket. It is actually very slightly lighter than the popular 9000 lbf MVXZ. There's also the EK 520 3DZ that is 9352 lbf and lighter. I don't know but there might be some clearance issues with larger sprockets. The bigger issue is maintenance. It will be fine if you properly maintain the chain (grease, slack, stretch). Also it's lbf (or lb or lbs), not lbs/Ft or ft/Lb.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
BillV,
You are correct, it is ZZZ, I missed the last Z. What do you mean it is stronger than a Aluminum rear sprocket? I thought all high end chains were stronger than the aluminum rear sprockets. Out of the two EK chains, which would be a stronger and lighter? Spending that kind of money, The price differences really dont matter. Thanks for the info.
 

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With respect to your first question, I think it;s about finding a balance of least chain wear & least rotating mass. Sure you can upgrade to your gearing you suggested and maintain roughly the same ratio but you also have larger sprockets even if only by a few extra teeth. Im sure suzuki's done the testing to find what gives the best of both worlds relative to what's needed from each quality.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I thought I did. Oh well, I just walked to the garage and took another. Its tough around here. lol Maybe I can get some questions answered now. Anything else people want to see?
 

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You should listen to me. No, seriously, listen to
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"What do you mean it is stronger than a Aluminum rear sprocket?"
That's Motomummy not me. In terms of shearing off half of the teeth on a rear sprocket, 9400 lbf would translate to around 450 lbf/tooth and I'm not sure which would win. It does seem a bit silly. The ZZZ may be discontinued after being pushed off the market by the 3DZ. Beware of the 520 3DGP. It's significantly lighter and weaker and is race only (you probably won't find many sellers). I bought my aluminum rear sprocket, 520 MVXZ chain, and steel front sprocket from Motomummy but he seems to no longer sell the aluminum Drivens. I now prefer the Renthal ultralight front sprockets. Others here like their rears.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
BillV, I hope I didnt sound like a jerk there, that deffinately isnt what I was trying to do. I appreciate any info your willing to give me.
On the EK website it says:
520ZZZ has 9400lbs tensile strength and weighs 3.97
Under the ZVX I believe the 520 is miss marked as the 520ZZZ again but the Tensile strength is 10,300 and it weighs 4.73lbs.
520MVXZ has 9000lbs tensile strength and weighs 3.99 lbs.
3D520Z Tensile strength 41.6kN (not sure how to read it) and weight is around 3.72lbs.
Which is the best chain?
 

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Im planning on purchasing a new 520 chain and sprockets. My first question is: why dont people use an 18 front and maybe a 47 or 48 rear? Im not sure if the front sprocket will fit but if it does, wouldn't it cut down on the stress of the chain? Second question, Moving to a 520 set Im looking for the highest tensile strength chain I can get. Im wondering what peoples experience are. Im looking at the: RK 520ZXW (9450 lbs/Ft) the EK 520ZZ or the 5203D ( both have 9400 ft/Lb tensile strength so Im not sure what the real differences are. ( List something else if you think its better please ) Finally I know there are plenty of front and rear sprockets. Im trying to find out what everyone's wear has been like with any given brand. Thanks for the help!!!
The only reason to go to a 520 setup up is to reduce rotating mass and save weight. If you go to larger sprockets, you will also need a longer chain. This will possibly put less stress on the chain but if you are looking for longevity, then why go with the 520? If you are looking for performance, then a good quality 520 chain and sprocket setup will last plenty long with the stock gearing. I am running the same chain and sprockets that Van is in this video except I went one tooth down in the front and stayed 45 in the rear.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
cdcom, all good points! How do you like the set up and what chain and sprockets did you use?
 

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I went with a 18/44 gearing setup with stock chain. The 18T fits but it is tight. I did this for gearing purposes. When I need a new chain, I will still go with a 525, but probably use a 17/42 setup. Below is relevant link to my decision.

Gearing 18/44
 

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41.6 kN is 9352 lbf. That 10,300 and 4.73 lb sounds like a 530 chain, not a 520. The ZVX and MVXZ are very similar, possibly only differing by the rivet supplied with it and the more commonly available MVXZ has optional rivets.

"Best" depends on you. The MVXZ is weaker and cheaper than the ZZZ (if you can find it) or the 3DZ but is widely used. However if strength is most important, you should be using a 530 chain and steel sprockets.
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
John D,
That was a good read. Interesting ratios and reasons why guys went with them. Im leaning towards a 14/45. I can always go back to a 15 front if it doesnt seem to work like I want.
BillV,
I want the 520 chain so Im looking for the strongest 520 chain, not 530. I cant find a comparison between the 3DZ and the ZZZ. I want to order tomorrow so I will see if I can find something.
 

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John D,
That was a good read. Interesting ratios and reasons why guys went with them. Im leaning towards a 14/45. I can always go back to a 15 front if it doesnt seem to work like I want.
Hold on WTF... 14T in the front????????? Stock is 17 / 45. Are you aware of how a 1 tooth change up front changes the gearing about 3x as much as a 1 tooth change in the rear? Each tooth change in the front is about an 6% change, while 1 tooth at the rear is about a 2% change. You are going to lower your gearing by 18%. Was this 14/45 a typo? If not I think 14T is way off the mark. At most people go with one tooth smaller up front.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Yep, I messed up. I should proof read before I hit Post. I meant to say 16 and if Im unhappy, I can always switch it back to stock 17 for cheap. Thanks for keeping me in check.
donmagicjuansurgery.jpg
 

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Yep, I messed up. I should proof read before I hit Post. I meant to say 16 and if Im unhappy, I can always switch it back to stock 17 for cheap. Thanks for keeping me in check.
View attachment 575406
16 \ 45 works well for me and the tracks that I ride. It also allowed me to stay with 120 links and only stretch the wheel base a tiny. You can tweek out on ratios and chain links all day at this site. haha ⚡Chain and Sprocket Calculator | RPM and Chain Speeds
 
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