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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
I tried looking for a 1100 basket but gave up after a while bceasue i simply couldnt find any in decent shape at the time. Im running the stock B12 basket with a barnett clutch pack and their heavy duty spings. My b12 is probably making somewhere areound 115-120 at the wheel. Ive never truely ridden it in anger because ive never had it on a track so i cant tell you how it would handle that treatment. Right now stock clutch seems fine with me hooning around town and the back roads.
Nice one. From what I鈥檝e read the stock bandit clutch starts to slip about 140, so maybe stock will do the job for ya pretty well 馃憣
 

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I have a used within spec bandit clutch with one hd clutch spring in my 1277 track bike, 13:1 comp, st-2 yoshi cams, big valve fully ported head, busa rods, lightened crank, etc etc and it's fine. Bought a 1000 slipper clutch that I will eventually convert to fit
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
I have a used within spec bandit clutch with one hd clutch spring in my 1277 track bike, 13:1 comp, st-2 yoshi cams, big valve fully ported head, busa rods, lightened crank, etc etc and it's fine. Bought a 1000 slipper clutch that I will eventually convert to fit
That鈥檚 very helpful to know. Think I鈥檒l give the same a go. Cheers mate
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 · (Edited)
Engine Temperature
I wanted some additional monitoring, so opted for a simple electronic system with thermocouples onto engine head and taken from oil sump. Not too fussed about absolute readings but more if something goes wrong and temperature deviates from some sort of baseline.

Bought this 鈥楨ngine Guard鈥 system (supporting local 馃嚘馃嚭)
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And an M16 x 1.5 to 1/8 NPT bolt adaptor to go in the sump, along with a little taper thread 1/8 NPT thermowell

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Adding in another threaded connection with 5L of hot oil behind it is a pretty terrible idea, so drilled the end to be able to lock wire it in and put a little RTV on the threads just in case.

voila鈥
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the other sensor - I stuck under one of the valve vent cover bolts as a proxy to head temp baseline

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Battery Box

I鈥檓 well passed the stock battery box and air box having ditched all the OEM stuff that goes in between the frame just in front of the seat.

I鈥檝e taken the opportunity with this build to tidy that area up a little. Previously it was stuffed with all the excess wiring loom and a big mess of relays and crap.

Without the rear wheel hugger, grit and race track grime tends to end up in there, so I鈥檒l eventually make a little fibreglass shield to deflect on the wheel side.

I took a couple metres of 1.6mm x 25mm aluminium strap, and bent it into a new battery box/cage. I pop riveted the various pieces together:
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And put two little brackets on either side to bolt into the frame.

Then I took a foam yoga block and carved it up to line the cage along with some notches for the battery leads:

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The Li-on feather weight battery and starter relay/fuse block fit nicely in there with the Dyna ignition module then bolted onto the front


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I鈥檝e now tested all the electric components so can get onto tidying up and properly routing the wiring loom.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 · (Edited)
Fitting Up the Carbs

I changed out the 89 750 switch block assembly for a bandit 600 one, spliced in the switch wiring, and fit in the 88 750 throttle cable and grip. I had to fabricate a little sleeve as the bandit throttle cable is a little bigger, and then slot the mounting hole in the little bracket for the throttle cable that holds it to assembly. Then plugged off the second throttle cable hole with a aluminium plug I had lying around

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The dot*head can get a bit of a bad rap without supposedly enough clearance for the air filters to the frame. My old K&N RU2922s had no chance of fitting, even if I took a mallet to them

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so I opted for some angled UniFilter UP4060As and they fit up perfectly 馃槑
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