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My friend told me not all bikes can take full synthetic so I was just wondering if it is safe to put full synthetic oil in my 03 gsxr 600 with 20,000 miles?
 

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Yes! I run amsoil 10-40 motorcycle oil in my race bike, and motul 5100 semi syn in my street bike that has over 65k miles and never been inside the motor and believe me, I dog the piss out of it!
 

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Biased Multi Level Marketing Dealer - take into co
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Damn dude...SEARCH BUTTON

But since I'm here...Rotella-T full synthetic like $17 at Walmart for a gallon....
Take a look at some post on the www.600rr.net site. There is two reports of clutch problems using the new diesel oils, but that doesn't mean anything yet as they may have had worn clutches getting ready to go.
george
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My friend told me not all bikes can take full synthetic so I was just wondering if it is safe to put full synthetic oil in my 03 gsxr 600 with 20,000 miles?
Have your friend name some of the bikes that can't run a full synthetic. Nearly all the so called full synthetic oils on the market are nothing but 100% petroleum products. So where is the logic?
george
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Take a look at some post on the www.600rr.net site. There is two reports of clutch problems using the new diesel oils, but that doesn't mean anything yet as they may have had worn clutches getting ready to go.
george
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If it doesn't mean anything, why did you mention it? Wouldn't have anything to do with your affiliation with Amsoil - would it? For the real answer on slipping clutches, one need look no further than the original poster: no offense, but about 2/3 of motorcycles are owned by people with this level of technical expertise, and sometimes they try to adjust their own clutches.

Amsoil is good stuff. But Rotella is good stuff too. By far the best bargain in synthetics, and yes I know Rotella is not a PAO synthetic but rather a Group III base stock. I have run it for years in my oil-cooled hot-rod GSXR-955 and now in my K7 1000. If the clutch on my K7 is slipping and it's still this fast - it must be one horrifying motorcycle.
 

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If it doesn't mean anything, why did you mention it? Wouldn't have anything to do with your affiliation with Amsoil - would it? For the real answer on slipping clutches, one need look no further than the original poster: no offense, but about 2/3 of motorcycles are owned by people with this level of technical expertise, and sometimes they try to adjust their own clutches.

Amsoil is good stuff. But Rotella is good stuff too. By far the best bargain in synthetics, and yes I know Rotella is not a PAO synthetic but rather a Group III base stock. I have run it for years in my oil-cooled hot-rod GSXR-955 and now in my K7 1000. If the clutch on my K7 is slipping and it's still this fast - it must be one horrifying motorcycle.
AMSOIL has Diesel oil as well (100% Synthetic), so the "affiliation" part is mute.

Not all MotorCycle Clutches act the same but it is worth while to mention as a potential problem. Oil formulations are changing rapidly to keep pace with new engine technologies. AMSOIL M/C Specific is an MA 2 Rated oil which is the highest clutch performance rating available. Amsoil M/C oils, on top of having unbeatable clutch performance, also contain Specific Anti-Wear and Anti-Rust and Corrossion Inhibitors designed for Power Sports applications.

Personally, I have been coming across more and more slipping, or more specifically, chattering clutches... common denominator in all of them was the use of an automotive oil, and happened over time.. The highest incedence I have seen is in Suzuki's, but also Victory, Triumph and BMW.

REGARDLESS of Brand, I Always Recommend a MotorCycle Specific oil (there is a difference) with a JASO Rating of MA, better yet, MA 2, but never MB.

Bob Schultz

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Another nice benefit of "diesel" oils like Rotella is that the "C" rating system does not change every few seconds like the "S" does. Plus the "C" builds on previous standards to a much greater degree than the "S" does. Hence the odds of a rapidly changing formula catching you out are reduced. I'm sure the oil companies are pulling out all the stops in order to re-formulate car oils to help the automakers meet ridiculous CAFE standards. But diesel fleet operators are a different breed of cat and don't want their tried and true oil formulations to wander around too often.
 

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I am not sure where you are getting your info from..

Diesel Oils just had to be reformulated to meet CJ-4 Specs for all 2007 and newer Diesel enginges. You CANNOT run a 2007 or Newer Diesel on the old Formulas as it will destroy the Diesel Particulate Filters which start at around $1200.00 and go up from there, not including installation.

Mis information abounds whether it is for Diesel or Automotive Products.

New Diesel oils must withstand the stress of heat, soot and acids to help prevent deposits, corrosion and wear even more-so than previous oils and this will change again by 2010... 2 years from now when the new Diesel Emission laws go into effect.

The next thing is.... We are talking about MotorCycles.... Buy The Right Oil For The Application...

Remember, He who tells you it is OK to run a different oil, does not have to pay your repair bills.



Bob Schultz
 

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I got my information from:

http://www.shell.com/home/Framework?siteId=rotella-en&FC2=/rotella-en/html/iwgen/ask_our_expert/zzz_lhn.html&FC3=/rotella-en/html/iwgen/ask_our_expert/answercolumn_0506.html

Since you are an advocate of "using the right oil for the application", can you give me one specific area in which Shell Rotella 5w-40 synthetic is lacking? It's one thing to have "motorcycle oil" printed on the bottle, it's another to actually identify the unique needs of a motorcycle engine and how Product "A" is more prepared to deal with said challenges than Product "B".

I didn't just pull Rotella out of my backside. I spent quite a few hours figuring out what the figures of merit are in oil performance and which of them are most likely to be useful in a motorcycle engine. I spent an awful lot of time on Amsoil's site as well. My objection is pretty simple really: if Product "A" is 10 times better than it needs to be to do the job, and Product "B" is 15 times better than it needs to be to do the job, but costs considerably more - what makes the most sense?

http://www.shellusserver.com/qa/answerresult.php?rowid=239

http://www.shellusserver.com/qa/answerresult.php?rowid=169

I'm not really sure what we're arguing about actually. The whole slipping clutch worry-fest was much ado about nothing as long as you don't use oil with a bunch of moly in it. Actual oil film failure is as rare as hen's teeth. We worry about this stuff waaaay too much.
 

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Chubby Chaser
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My friend told me not all bikes can take full synthetic so I was just wondering if it is safe to put full synthetic oil in my 03 gsxr 600 with 20,000 miles?

Which ones did he say could "take it"? Was it a specific model or year?
 

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Biased Multi Level Marketing Dealer - take into co
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I got my information from:

http://www.shell.com/home/Framework?siteId=rotella-en&FC2=/rotella-en/html/iwgen/ask_our_expert/zzz_lhn.html&FC3=/rotella-en/html/iwgen/ask_our_expert/answercolumn_0506.html

Since you are an advocate of "using the right oil for the application", can you give me one specific area in which Shell Rotella 5w-40 synthetic is lacking? It's one thing to have "motorcycle oil" printed on the bottle, it's another to actually identify the unique needs of a motorcycle engine and how Product "A" is more prepared to deal with said challenges than Product "B".

I didn't just pull Rotella out of my backside. I spent quite a few hours figuring out what the figures of merit are in oil performance and which of them are most likely to be useful in a motorcycle engine. I spent an awful lot of time on Amsoil's site as well. My objection is pretty simple really: if Product "A" is 10 times better than it needs to be to do the job, and Product "B" is 15 times better than it needs to be to do the job, but costs considerably more - what makes the most sense?

http://www.shellusserver.com/qa/answerresult.php?rowid=239

http://www.shellusserver.com/qa/answerresult.php?rowid=169

I'm not really sure what we're arguing about actually. The whole slipping clutch worry-fest was much ado about nothing as long as you don't use oil with a bunch of moly in it. Actual oil film failure is as rare as hen's teeth. We worry about this stuff waaaay too much.

On top of the Fact that Rotella is not a True Synthetic but a HydroIsomerized oil, there IS an Arguable difference between Automotive and M/C Specific oils...

AMSOIL has specific Anti-Wear additives developed for the needs of MotorCycle Transmissions. I have customers that have noted that yes, their shifts were smoother when they went to Rotella from regular oil, but noted an improvement when going from Rotella to AMSOIL.

AMSOIL has a higher amount of Anti-Rust and Corrosion Inhibitors for longer periods of storage than other oils, you can actually store your bike with the same oil from riding season, Specific clutch performance additives giving AMSOIL an MA 2 Rating that Rotella doesn't have.

Cost wise, AMSOIL does have an MA Rated oil that is usually less expensive per mile to run than Rotella, or at least about the same, and is a 100% PAO Based oil.

Not to mention the side benefits of changing oil half as frequently, cooler oil temps, more HP, better fuel mileage, smoother shifting and less wear...

Me, I like the fact that I change oil half as much as other people which also provides me with more riding time and less waste to dispose of.


Bob Schultz
 

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My friend told me not all bikes can take full synthetic so I was just wondering if it is safe to put full synthetic oil in my 03 gsxr 600 with 20,000 miles?
If it is a MotorCycle Specific oil, you can put it in all bikes..

Yes you can switch to a MotorCycle Specific Synthetic oil.


Bob Schultz
 

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Here are a couple of interesting posts from the Shell Oil forum's motorcycle sub-section. Apparently, lots of guys have lots of time on their hands and the patience to research these things:

http://www.shellusserver.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=3452&page=1#Post3452

http://www.shellusserver.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=3507&page=1#Post3512

You can also swing by http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/ and argue with all the Amsoil salesmen you want.

In fairness, I went back to Amsoil's site and re-read their oil White Paper which is a pretty impressive collection of tests that Amsoil commissioned comparing several different oils. Shell's Rotella Synthetic is not one of the contestants, but it's still worth a read as it has a good bit of information on how the different tests are administered. It even inspired me to go look up the ASTM testing standards to see what sorts of apparatus actually get used. What really gave me a snicker was the fact that the shear stability test rig is a diesel injector that is cycled a given number of times to break down the viscosity. It just seemed sublimely ironic that Amsoil Guy above likes to lecture us on only using motorcycle specific oil in our bikes then finding out the shear stability test is pretty much custom made for Rotella to excel at.

Rotella also easily surpasses the JASO clutch friction standard. Amsoil Guy will quickly note that Shell didn't pay to be able to put that little "JASO" sticker on the bottle. But the standard is the standard and Shell says it meets the standard. Your clutch won't slip using Rotella because Rotella has no friction modifiers in it. It won't slip with Amsoil either. So you can pay $9.25 per quart for Amsoil or you can pay 16 bucks for 4 quarts of Rotella at Wally World. "But, but, but, but.... extended drain intervals!! Less oil changes!! Less money overall!!". Go to Amsoil's site and read their recommendation about modified motorcycles and extended drain intervals. "But, but, but.... Rotella's not a real synthetic!! It's dinosaur oil!!". The only advantage PAO synthetics ever had was temperature stability at very high and very low temps. Group III base stocks are so refined now that Rotella and Amsoil have performance numbers in both areas within a couple of degrees of each other.

I'm quitting now. Run what oil you want. It won't hurt your motor.
 

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Wow! ya'll did alot of writing. Thanks for the research. I run syn. alright haven't had trouble yet. I use mobile 1, might switch though.
 

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I'm playing it safe and running a synthetic blend. Repsol 10w-40. I also heard from the suzuki dealership that full synthetic is good, but not for the clutch. If you don't run your bike hard 24/7, a synthetic blend should be good enough for the life of your bike. I'm a noob so this is just what i heard.
 

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son, your friends needs to be bitch slapped for sayin that. lol

ams oil in my cbr, gixxer and my cage :D
 
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