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Discussion Starter #1
Recently my bike started to have issues while starting. Once I get it started it runs amazing. No issues all the way to redline, Everything feels smooth and strong. But randomly the bike will have issues starting. I won't hear the fuel pump Prime sometimes and other times I can hear the fuel pump Prime. I just got a new battery and it is already dying. I rode for a couple hours yesterday and when I got home I let it cool off while I went inside to feed my son. When I came back out an hour later I had to jump it again.. I just changed my rectifier because I was relocating it to the side, but I haven't opened up or checked my stator. The plug for the stator and rectifier have been hardwired in so there's no plug for me to check. I don't want to strip the wires anymore because there's not much room left for me to do that and repair it. I don't think it's my fuel pump because randomly it will start and have great pressure but sometimes it doesn't Prime. I really need some help guides
 

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Hand-Eye Coordinator
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What's the battery voltage at rest after a couple hours? What is the idle voltage? What is the voltage at 5000 rpm?

Seriously consider getting the manual and following the charging system tests, regardless of hard wiring and other shortcuts.
 

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I know things... A lot of things.
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+1 to testing the battery and charging system. There seem to be more than one issues at play here, so randomly trying fixes isn't likely to get you very far. The connection between the R/R, stator and battery is very sensitive as it passes large currents. A bad connection is going to leave your battery uncharged and this goes for bad connectors as well as bad hardwired splices. Also, you should see "CHEC" on the dash before setting the engine stop switch to "RUN", or before switching to neutral and/or lifting the sidestand. If you notice that "CHEC" doesn't go away when you have trouble starting, you probably have a problem with the interlock.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I pulled the tank off to paint it and do some body work. While it was pulled apart I cleaned out the fuel filter and cleaned up the fuel pump assembly. I need to get a new wire harness for the front because the previous owner destroyed it battery is reading 12 for a title and goes up point to raising RPMs. Has a new rectifier. I think I need to replace or rewire the stator
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Battery voltage At rest after 2 hours of sitting: 14.99
At idle for 2 minutes 160°: 14.80
At 5k rpm: 11.55
I thing I may have mixed up the wires coming from my stator. The plug was replaced by but connectors by previous owner. But they looked like shit. Respliced them and I may have mixed them up. I did label them but this issue started right after I replaced the connectors. Going to pull the stator cover tomorrow and visually inspect the stator. Is there any way to know which wire goes where? There are 3 and one side of the wires are all yellow and the other side are different colors ..
 

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Hand-Eye Coordinator
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You're stator is dickered.

Once a charging system component is fucked, it will pull the other two components down with it over time.

Every time a component is changed in the charging system, you MUST test the other two.
 

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I know things... A lot of things.
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If "battery voltage at rest" was the voltage at the battery with the bike switched off after sitting a while and you found it to be 14.99V then you're either not measuring correctly, or something weird is going on. If you measured with the engine running and you find the voltage to be at ~15V at idle but fall below 12V at 5000 rpms, then either something is wrong with your stator, as suggested, or perhaps your splices do not establish a connection of sufficient quality to pass the higher current at higher engine speeds. Since the problem started after redoing the splices, I'm leaning towards the latter.

At any rate, it would probably be a good idea to undo the splices, measure the stator output and resistances, as described in the manual to see whether it's within spec and, if it is, redo the splices properly. The important thing there, is to make sure that the area of contact between the two spliced ends is large and clean. This means, apart from making sure the ends are clean, that if a clamp is used, it needs to make contact with a large part of the wire and be properly tightened. Alternatively, if solder joints are used, care must be taken to ensure that the solder has permeated the strands of the spliced ends, instead of forming a (perhaps loosely attached) jacket over them.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I don't know how or why, but the problem has gone away. Bike starts every time and voltage is reading within specs. Although I did order a new stator oh, it comes with a new harness for both sides so I'm going to rewire it correctly. Next thing I need to do is order a harness that goes from the Speedo to the headlight and blinkers, and I'm going to replace the harness by the left side vent hole, it's been cut up and spliced in several areas and I don't like it. Thank you all for your help
 

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Squid
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Solder and sealing shrink rube is your friend. You can fix that harness and make it road worthy if you can't find a replacement,
 
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