Thanks. Yes this is what I had bought. (By sending unit i meant the entire assembly) will the pump be inoperable with having the low fuel or panic sensor not working? Some kind of failsafe?Sending unit? Do you mean the pump itself? ... just replace the pump. Should be around 50$ or less.
There’s 4 wires on the pump housing.
1 ground
2 low fuel sensor
3 low fuel flash like hell panic senor
4 fuel pump
....Priming on key on is controlled by the ecu. You key on, it supply’s power to the pump for a few seconds , then kicks off.
after that it’s controlled by voltage from the TPS and ECU....
So if your not hearing the pump prime when you key on...(priming)...chances are your pump needs replaced OR you’ve buggered up your wiring elsewhere.
Your water bottle “test tank” is basically gravity feeding. Your pump is prolly just broken. Sometimes they’ll fail closed or open. Either leaving you with little to no fuel coming out, or gravity feeding.
you prolly just need to buy this:
97 98 99 00 GSXR 600 SRAD FUEL PUMP & PETCOCK - *NEW* | eBay
Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for 97 98 99 00 GSXR 600 SRAD FUEL PUMP & PETCOCK - *NEW* at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!www.ebay.com
that eBay vendor is also a forum member here.
Fuel pump not priming 97 srad 600
1 - 20 of 61 Posts
Got an almost brand new looking 750 tank its near mint. The old one was definitely toast for good so it got tossed.you can try cleaning pump, sometimes the impeller blades get clogged and wont spin, reverse spin it while flushing maybe its why it wont spin? looks like you have some de-rusitng to deal with as well? hows that tank lookin?
Ahhh well thats good to know lolNo if the low fuel/ panic sensors fail, there is no “fail safe”. The warning lights just won’t display, and if your not tracking consumption ya might end up running out of fuel and getting stranded is all.
As for the pump. Its never been in fuel thats just surface rust from being in a tropical environment lolyou can try cleaning pump, sometimes the impeller blades get clogged and wont spin, reverse spin it while flushing maybe its why it wont spin? looks like you have some de-rusitng to deal with as well? hows that tank lookin?
Yes its been done only after I pulled it back out. I didn't realize it was mild steel I thought it was stainless when I got ita light spray of WD40 to inhibit surface rust ..
If your referring to the sensor for low fuel that gives the warning light, the light is on because it is not in the tank. I think the sensor is fine ill have to find this break if there is one which I hope there is at this point.....Most likely a break in the wire somewhere, but yea possible to be the sensor itself. Fwiw , you could just bypass it if you wanted.
Where do you think the break is ill check the harness still but I'm curious what you thinkthink I know where that break is, dunnit before, I wiggled leads and it went off.. I'll pin point the break then jump it, maybe cut and repair, its real brittle anymore maybe I replace all wires from pump to connector? meh.. more work
UPDATE: all it needed was a new pump good call 👌 it will prime but it will crank and not start. Hard to see but it started leaking fuel kind of on the valve cover (shown in picture) when I used my makeshift water bottle tank it was not doing this so I'm thinking its something tank related. This is how I have my lines set up. Idk what the breather hoses are supposed to look like or if I have to cap them off which could also be the issue
![574251]()
![574250]()
I should run a catch can thats a good idea. So update to my previous statement I did get it to run but I had to work the throttle quite a bit and it wouldn't hold idle without me giving it gas. Sounded a bit rough when I was holding it at 1500 I will link a YouTube video of me doing it when i get off work, I will also check the crank hose and see if there is oil residue. I think the leak may have been flooding from me trying to start it too much.gas or oil? when the rings begin to wear you get blow bye, also when sync is off real bad the crank hose will blow oil into the air filter, pull the filter see if its migrating around the crank vent hose, the one right in the middle in first pic, if there is oil present there bout all you can do is tune it up real good, or install an inline trap/return, a filtration systems that collects the oil and allows it to drip into a catch then back into the engine? newer bikes have a baffle system prevents the oil from seeping up the hose...
I was getting a lot till I tuned it up real good now not so much, also make sure oil is not too full..
Not sure. CCM hunt bench rebuilded the carb to be ready to slap on in gohow well are the carbs synced up? you want to look for oil in the air box crank hose inlet, it builds up then leaks out eventually
But even a bench sync should be able to maintain some kind of idle no?then they are bench synced, they need a final running sync up..
The manual is on its way. It may be no help but when I used my water bottle test tank it was idling perfectly which makes me think pump tank or wiring ??it should idle he does good work, but one never knows? maybe look for air leaks, hoses, boots, carbs should be top notch if Hunt did them so its prolly something like that, hows compression? and how is your timing? how about valve lash?
also are you positive its fuel related and not spark? could the spark be weak at low RPMs? how is your charging systems and wiring in general? all cleaned up and packed with grease? how bout your coil sticks are they solid and putting out spec?
I'd try to isolate fuel or spark then work form there eliminating, back of the manual might help there?
Also I dont remember the hose barbs on the back of the tank I know one of them is a vent but not too sure about the otherit should idle he does good work, but one never knows? maybe look for air leaks, hoses, boots, carbs should be top notch if Hunt did them so its prolly something like that, hows compression? and how is your timing? how about valve lash?
also are you positive its fuel related and not spark? could the spark be weak at low RPMs? how is your charging systems and wiring in general? all cleaned up and packed with grease? how bout your coil sticks are they solid and putting out spec?
I'd try to isolate fuel or spark then work form there eliminating, back of the manual might help there?
Kind of weird but I think I figured it out. It may have needed the breather hoses to be connected and be below the tank? Made it idle fine after that. The throttle seems to be a bit laggy coming down from a rev and idle is in-between 1500 and 2000 some times changing a little. Is that normal? Or are the rpms on these normally spot on? Also wanna say thanks for helping a newbie like me its slowly making itself back on the road lol 🤙🏽one is vent one is cap overflow..
if it idles with a remote fuel supply then check petcock, pump, pump wiring and fuel line
I did not touch anything on the carb since chris told me it should be a slap on in go (at least rideable) ill get a video of itRPM's should drop right away, maybe a lean condition, check for vacuum leaks, what you set the air/idle at?
You might be onto something with the float hoses. Are those the two hoses that join into one hose and go to the air filter? I couldn't find the rubber t's that were supposed to fit in between the carbs so I used one from a later model and they fit the carbs nice and snug but didn't fit the hose that great....ah yes then the lean condition most likely is not carb related, maybe a leaky hose, boot, you have the air filter in and sealed right? all your float hoses plugged in?
spray some ehter around suspect areas see if it idles up?
So I made those more snug and re-seated the rubber boots to the carb and the rpm is fine until it warms up, then it jumps to 2k-3k unless i lower the idle with the idle knob then i can get it back to normal idle. But with one blip of the throttle it goes back up? Here's a video of whats going on.yup, those
Sorry I may have failed to mention this but everything inside the carb is brand new. Jets diaphragm, needles etc all either oem or performance stuff. I will check for vacuum and throttle return and basically everything except the carb because I'm terrified of them lol. I'll see what results I get with messing with the vacuum line and let you know. Im so close rn I took it for a ride up and down the street and everything around it is cherry hahaseems to me it runs OK, not the best running I've ever heard but it runs pretty good really, check your choke system, everything from the plungers to the rail to the cable to lever, make sure its free and snaps back and seals, there are o-rings on the caps to seal out air, do not tighten to much they will break and cost $17 each, yes they should be metal..
these CV's have a fast idle circuit on the left control, typically you use that when cold, then when it warms up it will idle normally..
check your throttle cables and linkage for same thing, stickiness, and returning to the same spot on release, is your return cable adjusted properly?.. one cable lifts, one cable returns...
go through the factory pro steps for lean condition then check all this, and make sure you have no vacuum leaks anywhere, you can remove petcock vacuum hose and plug nipple with your finger to see if that changes the idle?
cut ends off any vacuum lines so the seating is fresh and tight.. replace any nipple caps.
the slight roughness may be a vacuum leak? if you cannot find an external vacuum leak you may have to go through the carbs, if just one air idle screw o-ring is gone it will create a lean condition, its an old bike that rubber goes, if all your diaphragms are good you're lucky you may just need a rebuild kit? I'd go through em myself if its not external or the air idle o-rings, you can go to ronayers.com look at microfiche to see exactly what order the o-ring, washer, spring, and screw go.. those lil' o-rings can get stuck in the seat a lot easier working on em with rack off the bike, I dig em out with a tiny hook at the end of a safety pin when they wont come out.
So checked all the cables and found that the choke had popped off. Checked the action and the condition of the boot on the choke plunger and everything responds like it should (even while running) except I will still get the laggy throttle response. The throttle snaps back as it should i have it maybe a 1/4 in of play. My question is- on those 90 degree pipe bends that are part of the housing for the throttle cable supposed to be loose? Is there a way I can check the check valve on the vacuum lines that go to the air filter? And how could I check if the petcock is working? When I pulled the vacuum line of the petcock and plugged the line I dont think the idle changed from what I could tell... is there adjustments on the tps ? Or am I seeing possible symptoms from the tps?also pay attention to the order of washer spring and o-ring if you do check those o-rings, if anything is missing or in the wrong order that's an indication of the type of rebuild may have been performed, wont be hard to pop bowl caps off and check float height if you remove the rack as well, I think a float misalignment can create a lean condition as well? just gotta chase it down no choice, these things take time, be patient and take the time, may take a few days? it has to be something..
you tried ehter right? maybe a manifold warped or boot cracked? if a manifold warped you can use sealant, if a boot cracked you can use epoxy, obviously new is better..
1 - 20 of 61 Posts
- This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Suzuki GSX-R Motorcycle Forums Gixxer.com
A forum community dedicated to the Suzuki GSX-R motorcycle. Discuss the GSX-R600, GSX-R750, GSX-R1000, and GSX-R1100, and more!
Full Forum Listing
Explore Our Forums
Recommended Communities
