Fuel pump not priming 97 srad 600

on mine I think the break is halfway down from the pump to the connector, I see I have tape on it there so I may have wiggled it, ran my finger nail down the wire and felt the break so I just taped it, I thought it worked for a while but kinda forget now and I have cleaned tank and repaired pump again as well so had it all apart since....

I'll jump it and if it turns off I know that wire is broke and I'll just temp a jumper wire till the pump comes off again then I'll fix it proper.. hopefully that's it cannot find those pump sensors anywhere?

if you look at a pump off the bike you can follow the leads off the sensors to the bolt, then to the backside of pump plate to verify the wire in question, then run your nail down it feeling for a break.. if you have safety pins soldered to both ends of a wire you can you can push it through the wire right near the plate and connector see if it shuts it off?

not sure if you can find those type of connectors they use to wire up the pump that goes through the base plate? be nice to have four of those I'd just rewire the entire pump, however the wire leads are sealed into them and onto the plate for leak proof fitments.. maybe a guy could rig it? dunno? hate to have to get a pump just for the gas light to go off.. I wanna just fix this one, not in a hurry tho..

also have a dim neutral light at times, specially in high sunlight so I have to clean up that sensor, do it all at once, then the bike is SOLID, been a lot of time work and money but its there, just needs paint its in new condish save the polished frame and swing arm.. really like to have a clean frame and swing arm, maybe I powder coat it? then paint the plastics, new bike basically.. I'd trust it to ride around the world, knock on wood..

seems to me it runs OK, not the best running I've ever heard but it runs pretty good really, check your choke system, everything from the plungers to the rail to the cable to lever, make sure its free and snaps back and seals, there are o-rings on the caps to seal out air, do not tighten to much they will break and cost $17 each, yes they should be metal..

these CV's have a fast idle circuit on the left control, typically you use that when cold, then when it warms up it will idle normally..

check your throttle cables and linkage for same thing, stickiness, and returning to the same spot on release, is your return cable adjusted properly?.. one cable lifts, one cable returns...

go through the factory pro steps for lean condition then check all this, and make sure you have no vacuum leaks anywhere, you can remove petcock vacuum hose and plug nipple with your finger to see if that changes the idle?

cut ends off any vacuum lines so the seating is fresh and tight.. replace any nipple caps.

the slight roughness may be a vacuum leak? if you cannot find an external vacuum leak you may have to go through the carbs, if just one air idle screw o-ring is gone it will create a lean condition, its an old bike that rubber goes, if all your diaphragms are good you're lucky you may just need a rebuild kit? I'd go through em myself if its not external or the air idle o-rings, you can go to ronayers.com look at microfiche to see exactly what order the o-ring, washer, spring, and screw go.. those lil' o-rings can get stuck in the seat a lot easier working on em with rack off the bike, I dig em out with a tiny hook at the end of a safety pin when they wont come out.

those bends off the throttle housing are sorta loose, may depend on who makes the cable but one of mine is plastic with a nut other is metal with retainer.. both are sorta loose, they just don't pull out but do wiggle some..

check valve on the vacuum lines that go to air filter? not sure what this check valve is you speak of?

petcock is fairly simple, turns fuel flow on and off..

to check if its shutting off remove supply line off carb rail, put in a bottle, remove vacuum line to petcock..

turn on key, if fuel flows its not shutting off the supply... connect vacuum line or use a vacuum gauge pump to check flow and pressure, one end connects to a pressure gauge, vacuum pump connects to petcock, turn key on and check pressure..

if its not meeting specified pressure inspect and replace if needed...

pulling the petcock vacuum line and plugging should do nothing, unless its leaking then the bike would return to proper idle when blocked at head nipple, does idle change at all when you pull the line and don't plug it? a small lean condition should raise idle slightly..

check TPS in dealer mode, jump dealer plug at rear under trunk or maybe under tail in that area? then key on, there's a "-" symbol on the clock that should be in the middle position, if you loosen TPS and move it both directions you can watch the - symbol change positions up and down, it wants to be set in the middle position..

you can test the TPS for proper ohms reading as well, all that's in service manual

Betelnut said:

Hi sorry I guess I never posted my reply. The choke plunger is new including the boot on it. I am leaning toward the a/f ratio right now 🤙🏽

Click to expand...

and the choke boot oring is good right? some folks say there is no oring, there is

yes check your A/F section, check ronayers microfiche for the order in which the 4 parts are installed, screw, spring, oring and washer..

I believe this was my issue when I had a lean problem, I removed an A/F screw when disassembling for a bath and the freekin washer went flying... never did find it

I found one close but had to grind a bit on it to work, I think it was mishaped? it sure ran steady after I ordered another washer and all new orings.. I may have even had them in the wrong order?

if its any consolation I had to "rebuild" mine 3 times before they ran perfect..

first was washer
second was jetting
third was it sat over winter then developed a leak in one of the needle jets

fun right? sure was as the fuel pump decided to leak as well, so I rebuilt that and the petcock for measure..

some advice?

if you plan to let this bike sit more than 2 months?

find either some aviation gas, no ethanol, or go to pure-gas dot org and find ethanol free, its usually 87 if its at Maverick but you can get octane booster like $6 for 10 tankfuls.. STP works great

also, pull your petcock vacuum hose after you pinch it off with a clothes pin or whatever while its running, DRAIN THOSE FLOAT BOWLS!

sure it sucks to have to prime em all over again, but sure beats having to rebuild... something in today's gas does not like carbs at all?

it may be a way of trying to get people to ditch their carbed vehicles for FI, modern, less polluting?

dunno but I saw a video of a ducati that had a some orange crap floating on the top? didn't sit but 3 months?

my busa gas went bad in 4 months.. HASSLE

and it was destroying my carbed bike fuel system..

right now its got E free in it to the top and it seems to be working well, I block off the exhaust tip and ram air to reduce air flow for evaporation when not running and it works..

now when I go to start it fires right up even after sitting two weeks..

worst part was if I forgot to start it every week the ethanol unleaded would evaporate and I would have to prime the carbs again and it was wearing my battery down, crank crank crank and crank some more, even with ether..

I hate that gas, its a subsidy scam anyway