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Fuel pump not priming 97 srad 600

6265 Views 60 Replies 4 Participants Last post by  TwistedMister
I have an 1997 srad 600 thats not priming. It has run with a water bottle "test tank" just fine. My sending unit (in this picture its hideous and has been sitting for years but its been cleaned up since) was priming awhile ago before but now I only feel it click. I replaced the fuel pump and strainer/grommet as well as the petcock (probably unrelated) but here is how I have it wired. The terminal to the left of the power wire seemed to have spun when I was tightening it which I may think is the culprit. If so is there any way I can repair it? Used sending units are pretty expensive and untested..... I made a jumper wire from the battery to the fuel pump trying to manually activate the fuel pump. I have tried kickstand up clutch and brake in killswitch on and relay is clicking.
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Sending unit? Do you mean the pump itself? ... just replace the pump. Should be around 50$ or less.

There’s 4 wires on the pump housing.

1 ground
2 low fuel sensor
3 low fuel flash like hell panic senor
4 fuel pump

....Priming on key on is controlled by the ecu. You key on, it supply’s power to the pump for a few seconds , then kicks off.

after that it’s controlled by voltage from the TPS and ECU....

So if your not hearing the pump prime when you key on...(priming)...chances are your pump needs replaced OR you’ve buggered up your wiring elsewhere.

Your water bottle “test tank” is basically gravity feeding. Your pump is prolly just broken. Sometimes they’ll fail closed or open. Either leaving you with little to no fuel coming out, or gravity feeding.

you prolly just need to buy this:

that eBay vendor is also a forum member here.
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Thanks. Yes this is what I had bought. (By sending unit i meant the entire assembly) will the pump be inoperable with having the low fuel or panic sensor not working? Some kind of failsafe?
No if the low fuel/ panic sensors fail, there is no “fail safe”. The warning lights just won’t display, and if your not tracking consumption ya might end up running out of fuel and getting stranded is all.
my slow light is always blinking lately full tank? new sensor? maybe a break in wire?
Most likely a break in the wire somewhere, but yea possible to be the sensor itself. Fwiw , you could just bypass it if you wanted.
So... what’s the problem? When you get idle set perfectly it isn't the actual number that you want it to be? How are you seeing the RPM, by the needle? Hell sitting on the bike vs standing over it looking at a needle can change what you see for the idle value just from the viewing angle difference. Are you probing the sensor for a real-time digital readout? If not, just set the idle so it doesn’t die on you at stop signs and so it doesn’t over heat (over idle) or under idle (dies) at stop lights.... it usually tends to be somewhere around 3-6 turns of the idle screw knob after contact.

Would strongly suggest not touching the adjustments on the carbs since ccmhunt did the work. About the only way they’d be wrong is if the postal service decided the package was a basket ball and went for the 3 pointer...If the caps were there, ccmhunt would have removed them and correctly set them for you in the process of doing cleaning / rebuilding or installing any kit. If you search his posts you’ll come across him saying multiple times to leave them alone.....Maybe he’s started to put new caps in because of such fussery?

If you want to fuss with fine tuning ... then about the only thing that might.... MIGHT.. be worth doing is a general syncing.... but you’ll need a decent sync gauge setup....and you paid for ccmhunt... he already inspected your butterfly’s and set your bench syncing of the rack to damn near perfection. The few times for shits and giggles I’ve connected a sync tool up after getting a rack back from ccmhunt they’ve never needed adjustment. If yours does require individual adjustment , you might have a significant cylinder issue and checking compression / spark would be in your best interest...

What you’ve described from 30 days back sounds like you just never set your idle knob perfectly.... kind of a pain in the arse but usually you dial that down perfectly while riding around after the bike has warmed up and puttered around town to get all the liquids circulating, then make minor adjustments to set the idle knob after coming to a stop. Basically adjust it so you don’t over idle or under idle at stop signs. Then after you got riding idle set, you learn how to start the bike without touching the damn idle knob kuz you know it’s set for riding.... the thing you wana do more of....I’ve seen others set their idle on a stand and have it work out... but none of my srads ever turned out that way...

OR.... you might be kinking the fuel line when you lower the tank.....

It’s pretty darn common if your just using a chunk of general fuel line tubing. You could pay the extra chunk of change and buy a OEM fuel line to avoid this... but if your using a aftermarket petcock with a 90 degree bend the oem fuel line won’t be easy to connect up...

A kinked fuel line when lowering the tank could possibly explain why everything is fine when your bottle feeding fuel but then it’s wonky when you switch to the tank....

Another silly possibility could be your petcock tube to cylinder 3 might be cooked / cracked / disconnected. Twisted mentioned checking the vacuum line... Might be your burning off the primed fuel then slightly starving for fuel from the lack of the vacuum.

Oh and you mentioned the vent tubes on the back of the tank... if those suckers are clogged , you might be causing a fighting suction of the tank pressure... making the pump have to work extra hard to force out the fuel... if those lines are plugged.., tap a breather somewhere on the top of the tank...

Pretty confident carb’d srads do not have a “dealer mode” like the FI model does for setting TPS. It’s pretty much just test with a multimeter for the carb’d Vers. Also, ccmhunt wouldn’t send it back to you not ready togo. It would be a serious fluke anyway for the TPS to get buggered up durring shipping.

Oh and the Y pipe... make sure that sucker is hooked up to the front of the airbox... a bunch of buggery can happen such as a hanging idle after warmed up if it’s disconnected/loose.
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