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Discussion Starter #1
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I have an 1997 srad 600 thats not priming. It has run with a water bottle "test tank" just fine. My sending unit (in this picture its hideous and has been sitting for years but its been cleaned up since) was priming awhile ago before but now I only feel it click. I replaced the fuel pump and strainer/grommet as well as the petcock (probably unrelated) but here is how I have it wired. The terminal to the left of the power wire seemed to have spun when I was tightening it which I may think is the culprit. If so is there any way I can repair it? Used sending units are pretty expensive and untested..... I made a jumper wire from the battery to the fuel pump trying to manually activate the fuel pump. I have tried kickstand up clutch and brake in killswitch on and relay is clicking.
 

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Sending unit? Do you mean the pump itself? ... just replace the pump. Should be around 50$ or less.

There’s 4 wires on the pump housing.

1 ground
2 low fuel sensor
3 low fuel flash like hell panic senor
4 fuel pump

....Priming on key on is controlled by the ecu. You key on, it supply’s power to the pump for a few seconds , then kicks off.

after that it’s controlled by voltage from the TPS and ECU....

So if your not hearing the pump prime when you key on...(priming)...chances are your pump needs replaced OR you’ve buggered up your wiring elsewhere.

Your water bottle “test tank” is basically gravity feeding. Your pump is prolly just broken. Sometimes they’ll fail closed or open. Either leaving you with little to no fuel coming out, or gravity feeding.

you prolly just need to buy this:

that eBay vendor is also a forum member here.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Sending unit? Do you mean the pump itself? ... just replace the pump. Should be around 50$ or less.

There’s 4 wires on the pump housing.

1 ground
2 low fuel sensor
3 low fuel flash like hell panic senor
4 fuel pump

....Priming on key on is controlled by the ecu. You key on, it supply’s power to the pump for a few seconds , then kicks off.

after that it’s controlled by voltage from the TPS and ECU....

So if your not hearing the pump prime when you key on...(priming)...chances are your pump needs replaced OR you’ve buggered up your wiring elsewhere.

Your water bottle “test tank” is basically gravity feeding. Your pump is prolly just broken. Sometimes they’ll fail closed or open. Either leaving you with little to no fuel coming out, or gravity feeding.

you prolly just need to buy this:

that eBay vendor is also a forum member here.
Thanks. Yes this is what I had bought. (By sending unit i meant the entire assembly) will the pump be inoperable with having the low fuel or panic sensor not working? Some kind of failsafe?
 

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you can try cleaning pump, sometimes the impeller blades get clogged and wont spin, reverse spin it while flushing maybe its why it wont spin? looks like you have some de-rusitng to deal with as well? hows that tank lookin?
 

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Thanks. Yes this is what I had bought. (By sending unit i meant the entire assembly) will the pump be inoperable with having the low fuel or panic sensor not working? Some kind of failsafe?
No if the low fuel/ panic sensors fail, there is no “fail safe”. The warning lights just won’t display, and if your not tracking consumption ya might end up running out of fuel and getting stranded is all.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
you can try cleaning pump, sometimes the impeller blades get clogged and wont spin, reverse spin it while flushing maybe its why it wont spin? looks like you have some de-rusitng to deal with as well? hows that tank lookin?
Got an almost brand new looking 750 tank its near mint. The old one was definitely toast for good so it got tossed.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
No if the low fuel/ panic sensors fail, there is no “fail safe”. The warning lights just won’t display, and if your not tracking consumption ya might end up running out of fuel and getting stranded is all.
Ahhh well thats good to know lol
 

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Discussion Starter #8
you can try cleaning pump, sometimes the impeller blades get clogged and wont spin, reverse spin it while flushing maybe its why it wont spin? looks like you have some de-rusitng to deal with as well? hows that tank lookin?
As for the pump. Its never been in fuel thats just surface rust from being in a tropical environment lol
 

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No if the low fuel/ panic sensors fail, there is no “fail safe”. The warning lights just won’t display, and if your not tracking consumption ya might end up running out of fuel and getting stranded is all.

my slow light is always blinking lately full tank? new sensor? maybe a break in wire?
 

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think I know where that break is, dunnit before, I wiggled leads and it went off.. I'll pin point the break then jump it, maybe cut and repair, its real brittle anymore maybe I replace all wires from pump to connector? meh.. more work
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Most likely a break in the wire somewhere, but yea possible to be the sensor itself. Fwiw , you could just bypass it if you wanted.
If your referring to the sensor for low fuel that gives the warning light, the light is on because it is not in the tank. I think the sensor is fine ill have to find this break if there is one which I hope there is at this point.....
 

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Discussion Starter #15
think I know where that break is, dunnit before, I wiggled leads and it went off.. I'll pin point the break then jump it, maybe cut and repair, its real brittle anymore maybe I replace all wires from pump to connector? meh.. more work
Where do you think the break is ill check the harness still but I'm curious what you think
 

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on mine I think the break is halfway down from the pump to the connector, I see I have tape on it there so I may have wiggled it, ran my finger nail down the wire and felt the break so I just taped it, I thought it worked for a while but kinda forget now and I have cleaned tank and repaired pump again as well so had it all apart since....

I'll jump it and if it turns off I know that wire is broke and I'll just temp a jumper wire till the pump comes off again then I'll fix it proper.. hopefully that's it cannot find those pump sensors anywhere?

if you look at a pump off the bike you can follow the leads off the sensors to the bolt, then to the backside of pump plate to verify the wire in question, then run your nail down it feeling for a break.. if you have safety pins soldered to both ends of a wire you can you can push it through the wire right near the plate and connector see if it shuts it off?

not sure if you can find those type of connectors they use to wire up the pump that goes through the base plate? be nice to have four of those I'd just rewire the entire pump, however the wire leads are sealed into them and onto the plate for leak proof fitments.. maybe a guy could rig it? dunno? hate to have to get a pump just for the gas light to go off.. I wanna just fix this one, not in a hurry tho..

also have a dim neutral light at times, specially in high sunlight so I have to clean up that sensor, do it all at once, then the bike is SOLID, been a lot of time work and money but its there, just needs paint its in new condish save the polished frame and swing arm.. really like to have a clean frame and swing arm, maybe I powder coat it? then paint the plastics, new bike basically.. I'd trust it to ride around the world, knock on wood.. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #17
UPDATE: all it needed was a new pump good call 👌 it will prime but it will crank and not start. Hard to see but it started leaking fuel kind of on the valve cover (shown in picture) when I used my makeshift water bottle tank it was not doing this so I'm thinking its something tank related. This is how I have my lines set up. Idk what the breather hoses are supposed to look like or if I have to cap them off which could also be the issue
574251
574250
 

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gas or oil? when the rings begin to wear you get blow bye, also when sync is off real bad the crank hose will blow oil into the air filter, pull the filter see if its migrating around the crank vent hose, the one right in the middle in first pic, if there is oil present there bout all you can do is tune it up real good, or install an inline trap/return, a filtration systems that collects the oil and allows it to drip into a catch then back into the engine? newer bikes have a baffle system prevents the oil from seeping up the hose...

I was getting a lot till I tuned it up real good now not so much, also make sure oil is not too full..
 

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Discussion Starter #19
gas or oil? when the rings begin to wear you get blow bye, also when sync is off real bad the crank hose will blow oil into the air filter, pull the filter see if its migrating around the crank vent hose, the one right in the middle in first pic, if there is oil present there bout all you can do is tune it up real good, or install an inline trap/return, a filtration systems that collects the oil and allows it to drip into a catch then back into the engine? newer bikes have a baffle system prevents the oil from seeping up the hose...

I was getting a lot till I tuned it up real good now not so much, also make sure oil is not too full..
I should run a catch can thats a good idea. So update to my previous statement I did get it to run but I had to work the throttle quite a bit and it wouldn't hold idle without me giving it gas. Sounded a bit rough when I was holding it at 1500 I will link a YouTube video of me doing it when i get off work, I will also check the crank hose and see if there is oil residue. I think the leak may have been flooding from me trying to start it too much.
 

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how well are the carbs synced up? you want to look for oil in the air box crank hose inlet, it builds up then leaks out eventually
 
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