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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I’m at a loss right now of what else to check for. I’ve got a 2000 GSXR 600 SRAD with about 21K miles on it. I was having trouble starting my bike. It would try to turn over and then it would stop with a hard knock sound. Then it would just click like the battery was dying. I would push start it and once it was running it would run fine. I charged the battery and it did it again. I checked the air box and it had oil in it. I decided to clean the carbs and see if that helped. I also checked the compression (all cylinders between 160-170 PSI) and I changed the plugs which all looked to be good but I changed them anyway. I cleaned the carbs inside and out and decided to add a Dynojet stage 1 jet kit and a K&N air filter (I still have the stock exhaust). When I start up the bike it sounds like it’s not running on all 4 cylinders. It wont idle worth a darn now either. I took the plugs out to check them and they were all wet with fuel. When I cranked the engine over with the spark plugs out fuel shoot out of the holes the plugs were in (looked like a fountain of fuel for a second). This tells me I’m getting too much fuel. I’ve check the float bowl level, the fuel petcock/fuel valve, but I’m still getting the same problem. The fuel pump seems to work fine. When I turn the bike on and flip the cut off switch to ‘on’ you can hear the fuel pump work and then turn off just before I start it. I get it to run for a second, but I have to keep giving it gas because it doesn’t want to idle. After I turn it off using the fuel cut off switch I hear a gargling sound like fuel is filling something up (Maybe the cylinders?). When I take the air box off I noticed there is fuel in the air vent lines coming from the carbs going to the front of the air box. I don’t think this should be happening at all. Is there a pressure regulator on the fuel pump that may be going bad and pushing too much fuel into the carbs continually?
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
So are there any ideas? I was told by the stealership today that my bike was FI... He tried to argue with me until I told him I cleaned my carbs inside and out. Then he went back and got the right manual. Other than that I asked him how to check if my fuel pump was bad so I'll be checking the relay and doing a drainage test. Apparently if the fuel pressure regulator is at a correct pressure of 1.8 PSI it will flow 1 Liter/min. So hopefully this isn't the case because a new fuel pump is $400. ugh... GOD BLESS EBAY!!!
 

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While I wouldn't completely rule it out, I don't think the fuel pump is the problem. First, double check all the vacuum lines with the service manual to be sure they're connected in the right places. Then, I'd suggest pulling the plugs so it won't fire, leave off the airbox, and start cranking the engine. While you do this, hold the throttle all the way open, so you can see down the intake runners. Try to see where the fuel is coming from, if a large amount is just getting dumped in there, and which cylinders are doing it. If you can locate the source, you can narrow down your search.
 

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I had the same problem. Your carbs are dumping fuel into the cylinders and hydro locking the motor. The fuel is going past the float needle and dumping into the carbs/cylinders. When it locks like the battery is dead, it is because too much fuel is in the cylinder and the bike will not compress it.

To prove it, the next time it happens, pull the plugs, and turn over the motor to blow out the extra fuel. install the plugs and it will start. It is a float level problem and or a float needle problem. That is alse why it is running rich and soaking the plugs.

Easy fix, set the float height and check all the float needles.

Good Luck:cheers
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Easy fix, set the float height and check all the float needles.

Good Luck:cheers
I checked those again and they are great! I checked the fuel relay switch and it was good. My friend and I hooked up a fuel tank from a honda xl 100 (no pressure, just leak fed) and it ran fine, well, a bit lean actually which tells me this would be the fuel pump or the pressure regulator on the fuel pump. I got a new/used pump so when I get that back on along with the new exhaust I decided to get while my bike was under the knife anyways I'll find out if it was the fuel pump or not. If this doesn't fix it I'm not sure what would be the cause since the needles looked great, I checked the float bowl height and level, cleaned the crap out of the carbs, checked the fuel relay switch, and rejetted it with a stage1 jet kit for the fun of it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Okay, so I just got my bike up and running. YAY!!! I replaced the fuel pump and that seemed to be the problem all along. I'll see if that solved the vapor lock problem (I'm keeping my fingers crossed). So after I put the new fuel pump it I started the bike up and it sounded like it was only running on two cylinders. I took her out for a spin and then she cleared up and wow did she run great! Then all of the sudden she started to only work on two cylinders again. WTF? I pulled up to the next light and she was having trouble staying on. I pulled up to the following red light and then she died. She would turn over, start and then idle, but as soon as I gave any gas she would die on me. I ended up putting more gas in her and she fired right back up.

*I now felt really dumb at this point in time! running out of gas!*

I made it to the next gas station, filled her up and then proceded to flood the engine. Once I got her started again she ran amazingly. So after all the frustration and upgrades (Stage 1 jet kit, K&N air filter, and soon to be a bolt on exhaust) it was just the darn fuel pump. I just wish they wern't so darn expensive ($400 new or $150 off good 'ole ebay!). Hopefully this thread will help some people in the future who have the same problem.
 

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Yup, I am having the same Fucking problem. As soon as I fix one damn thing, another piece of shit pops it's head out. You know it wouldn't be that bad but every fucking problem turns into a hundred dollar bill at the LEAST! how many damn hundred dollar bills does Murphy and his stupid ass law think a single dad of 3 have. When I die, if I can find good ol Murphy, I am going to continually beat his ass for eternity for fucking with hard working guys trying to have something nice on their small and tight budget. I swear I want to light him, the bike, and that bitch across the street on fire (that's another story but trust me, it is justified) so a fuel pump you say. YES I KNOW IT IS AN OLD THREAD but it helps he out and I need to vent a little. Sorry for making you read this and taking 3 min of your life.
 

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welp if I was you and I am no expert and I dunno where the carb guru is? he is the one

but from a laymans standpoint I would go back into the carbs and slowly reinspect and MEASURE EVERYTHING INCLUDING float height which is what controls fuel flow..

make sure you have perfect seats on the needle valves and they are not STICKING! remember when gasoline evaporates it leaves whats called LACQUER behind and it gets very hard like on a desktop, add some gas and it can get sticky, so if you have lacquer buildup on the needle or seat they can get sticky and often do, specially if the bike sits between seasons or whatever..

my advice for both of you guys is to invest in 2 quarts of yamilube carb cleaner, BEST IMHO and I think Chris liked it too, least the older stuff but it works well

follow their directions except to get a little current or circulation in the water so it can flush out the gunk use a womans vibrator or an electric tooth brush and set it under the container you are soaking them in and use like a medium speed or just enough to where you see a swirl action in the solution..

then blow out all venturis and ports n what not make sure you get them all there are like 7 or so? get em all jet ports everything, making sure each venturi or port has the same flow as the next carb so best thing to do is set them side by side and do the same port on each as in grab one carb, blow out the main jet port, set it down grab the next blow out the main jet port, paying close attention to flow, make sure they all have the same relative flow you will get a feel for it this way you can tell if one is clogged or blocked, see this is where experts like Chris (CCMHunt) come into play, they can tell whether or not a port is blocked a lil just by blowing air through it so they know if it needs more soaking.. why I suggest about 3 soaks first like 3-4 hrs then 2 more 1-2 hour soaks... this yamalube is GREAT stuff IMO so in no more than 4 hours you should see all the lacquer with grime attached float to the top into a pool of its own, you will see it looks like, well lacquer floating on water?

even if you have soaked and cleaned them if you did not use yamalube do it again,pain I know but I have used various cleaners just to re soak in yamalube and whallah! a tablespoon of Lacquer pooled up at the top of the solution and boy did the ports all blow nice and free after that, I knew then the garb carb cleaner I used and or "simple green" is a joke..

so when you have it all laid out soaking inspect all your parts you should only have to soak jets and little parts for like 2 hours or so thenyou can clean and get tomeasuring everything..

you want all jets the same size, check your floats for buoyancy, shake them for gas inside of them.. then onto the pesky float height adjustment

here's where people get lost, disinterested, or confused so they blow it off and just go for close..

can't do that, you want them all the same at the very least, float height is very important hard to balance if they aren't very close.. plus you may not get fuel shut off? if you want to do a dead nut job at tuning the carbs go to factory pro's website and find the carb adjustment for..

go through all these steps and YES it does mean pulling the carb racks 3 or 4 times maybe more BUT, you will have NUTTED the tuning, sorry but thats just howit is VS Fuel injection, one reason FI is so superior to carbs..

also if you are at elevation it gives you the opportunity to adjust the carbs (lean them out) for your elevation...

its WELL WORTH IT, you don't need a dyno, PAY CLOSE attention tot he seat of the pants and when they say COLD they mean COLD, so it may involve removing the carbs at night then letting the bike sit over night, why you want to pay attention to the instructions and get it right the first time as you have to allow the bike to get COLD between adjustments, not every time depends on what its doing but you will see once you read the instructions, and FFS if you don't understand something ASK, don't guess may be the diff tween a perfect running bike and a so so or poor running bike

sounds to me like you have a good engine with that kind of compression, adjust tappets accordingly, that's important as well.. apparently the K&N air filters are junk for this bike so get a BMC if you must have a race filter, make sure you have the MMCT service bulletin performed, good wiring in all the problem areas and a mosfet R&R, good solid wiring to battery and stater, some new Amsoil and off you go!!!!

but make sure you follow the service manual to the TEE for adjusting the floats, it best if you have a partner or an extra set of fingers to hold a flashlight just right where you can read the numbers on your measuring device...
 

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I have the exact same problembut i jus changed the fuel pump and its still doing it im ready to give up this is going to b the 4th time changing my oil thats almost $300 already! My last ditch effort is that im gonna unplug the fuel pump and hook it up to a toggle switch so i can control the flow of fuel into the carbs. Im crossing my fingers!!!😞😞😞
 

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I have the exact same problembut i jus changed the fuel pump and its still doing it im ready to give up this is going to b the 4th time changing my oil thats almost $300 already! My last ditch effort is that im gonna unplug the fuel pump and hook it up to a toggle switch so i can control the flow of fuel into the carbs. Im crossing my fingers!!!😞😞😞
I haven't looked at the system in question but reading the first post of the thread it sounded like hydraulic lock. If that's the case It's not so much the pump that's the issue, more the pressure relief/ return line. As I said I haven't looked at the system specifics but it's going to have some method of either turning the pump off at a certain pressure and/or returning the excess fuel to the tank. Without that there's nothing to stop the pump forcing the float valves off their seats and flooding the engine.
 

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I haven't looked at the system in question but reading the first post of the thread it sounded like hydraulic lock. If that's the case It's not so much the pump that's the issue, more the pressure relief/ return line. As I said I haven't looked at the system specifics but it's going to have some method of either turning the pump off at a certain pressure and/or returning the excess fuel to the tank. Without that there's nothing to stop the pump forcing the float valves off their seats and flooding the engine.
I would suggest you read about the system , the issue youu have replied to is a faulty petrol tap, which needs a new diaphragm fitted to stop over fueling ( had this issue ).
 

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I would suggest you read about the system , the issue youu have replied to is a faulty petrol tap, which needs a new diaphragm fitted to stop over fueling ( had this issue ).
If I get the time I will, though to be fair the first two seemed to think that changing the pump sorted it and Apocalypse said he had the same problem. Only reason I posted about a system I didn't know was a manual switch sounds like an entirely unsatisfactory solution. and the problem doesn't sound like it's rooted in the ability of the pump to move fuel.
 

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I have the exact same problem but i just changed the fuel pump and its still doing it i'm ready to give up this is going to b the 4th time changing my oil that's almost $300 already! My last ditch effort is that im gonna unplug the fuel pump and hook it up to a toggle switch so i can control the flow of fuel into the carbs. Im crossing my fingers!!!😞😞😞

wait, you just don't have something right, the fuel shut off system is, the pump itself, the petcock and the fuel flow needle valves and seats, tank vent and lines.. if all those are functioning proper no way it leaks, not even close, reverse repair all of that starting with carbs, don't just clean or go cheap on any of it, get good brass/titanium seat and valve.. get good new hose, rebuild petcock proper, line up that hole and torque to spec, clean pump sock and make sure your fuel line is proper stock with stock clamps... if all that is good you have a golden fuel delivery system, make sure your tank vent/overflows are not clogged and working 100%..

also if you can run ethanol free gas in it.. pure-gas.org

this newer unleaded ethanol gas wreaks havoc on carbs, if you must pay $40 for a tank of 110 aviation to store bike so be it.. it sucks having to de rust a tank, fuel system and rebuild carbs every 6 months.. so done with that but still have one more to go.. ugg
 
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