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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a PCFC & I insert the appropriate map for my setup. A full exhaust system.
2004 gsxr 750
My fuel economy is garbage, I have the same fuel economy as a civic. With the price of gas, I am thinking of using my bike as a commuter this summer.
Can anyone look at my map layout & tell me why the economy is so bad? Can I tweak this?
thx.

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"My fuel economy is garbage, I have the same fuel economy as a civic."
What does this mean...mid 30's, 40mpg?? What do you expect it to be?
There's lots of variables...stop & go in the city...steady highway cruising...spirited riding, as it was intended?

It's just a big guess without a sniffer...get it tuned on a dyno.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
"My fuel economy is garbage, I have the same fuel economy as a civic."
What does this mean...mid 30's, 40mpg?? What do you expect it to be?
There's lots of variables...stop & go in the city...steady highway cruising...spirited riding, as it was intended?

It's just a big guess without a sniffer...get it tuned on a dyno.
I'm not sure a dyno tune might make a difference. Maybe I can call a shop.

I'm getting around 25-30 mpg. I'll have to look at my notes.
 

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get 44 on stock busa freeway, that's on 87 too... been riding it lately, I don't travel much but my last stop at the filling station it was 2.87 for 87 over $3 for premium and I thought that was high, stopped in yesterday on the busa it was no kidding at the chevron 4.97 for 87 like $5.59 for primo.. dafugg..

so I thought welp better fill up the car so I took it to costco 4.78 for 87.. unreal.. luckily those two tankfulls last about 2-3 months, but maybe longer if they wanna play like that cuz I can walk or pedal to the stores, really don't need to drive at all, I can walk everywhere I need to go or even bus it, which I more than likely will do as I am hard headed thatta way..

we had a good ride planned this summer and if I know how they raise gas for summer we may be looking at $7-$8 a gallon perhaps more.. greedy bastages, and they say pootin needs to be exterminated... hmm
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Yes, I went to fuelly.com & noticed that's not a good consumption. Bike feels lively but the consumption is crap. I did the math, total volume put in vs mileage generated and it's as bad as my car. My bike uses 91 oct too.

When I bypass the maps & revert to stock it gets good fuel economy.

I don't think I will enjoy the fuel cost this summer.
 

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get 44 on stock busa freeway, that's on 87 too... been riding it lately, I don't travel much but my last stop at the filling station it was 2.87 for 87 over $3 for premium and I thought that was high, stopped in yesterday on the busa it was no kidding at the chevron 4.97 for 87 like $5.59 for primo.. dafugg..

so I thought welp better fill up the car so I took it to costco 4.78 for 87.. unreal.. luckily those two tankfulls last about 2-3 months, but maybe longer if they wanna play like that cuz I can walk or pedal to the stores, really don't need to drive at all, I can walk everywhere I need to go or even bus it, which I more than likely will do as I am hard headed thatta way..

we had a good ride planned this summer and if I know how they raise gas for summer we may be looking at $7-$8 a gallon perhaps more.. greedy bastages, and they say pootin needs to be exterminated... hmm
You're running 87 Octane ?????????
 

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Yes, I went to fuelly.com & noticed that's not a good consumption. Bike feels lively but the consumption is crap. I did the math, total volume put in vs mileage generated and it's as bad as my car. My bike uses 91 oct too.

When I bypass the maps & revert to stock it gets good fuel economy.

I don't think I will enjoy the fuel cost this summer.
You would need a Wideband Oxygen Sensor and the ability to data log your rides in order to figure out where you are running lean and where you are running rich. Someone already said it but generic maps you download are just to keep you safe until you can get the bike properly tuned. When they design them to keep you safe they usually make the motorcycle run rich as to prevent any damage to the engine. Running rich uses more gas.

I'm in in the process of tuning my GSXR-750 using a wideband O2 sensor and the Dynojet AutoTune module in combination with a POD-300 (data logger) to self tune. I've made a lot of adjustments to the base map I downloaded for my mods from Dynojet. Specifically I've leaned the bike out in a lot of places to get me into the 13.2-13.8 to 1 stochiometric range. Notably between 2-10% throttle and 2,500 to 6,000 RPM range which is where I cruise when I ride around in the city.

At highway speeds, minimum throttle is about 5% in order to maintain speed at a cruising RPM (5,000 - 8,000). In the city you can cruise/maintain speed at 2% (under 40mph)

Changing the numbers on your map without the equipment I mentioned above is just taking a wild guess. If you are not familiar with the concepts of air fuel ratio and don't feel comfortable self tuning just find someone and take it to them. You'll pay them once to tune the bike which you'll probably save over the course of commuting this summer alone with how high gas prices are. You can tell the tuner that you want it setup for fuel economy at cruising speeds and max power when you get on the throttle, this is what I am currently doing.
 

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I'm still wondering what OP means by 'mileage like a civic'. I use that approximate value as a 'benchmark'. When tooling around gently on say, a K6 1000, it's tall gearing and ample low end are pretty much best-case for fuel consumption on a supersport and iirc, I'm happy when I'm hitting between 40-50 mpg (Honda Civic territory in Canadian gallons, more like 34-38 US MPG)

I've never owned & ridden a smaller bike since the 80s so I assume a 600 spins so much higher than it will never acheive the same economy as the 1000. Am I wrong?
 

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I'm still wondering what OP means by 'mileage like a civic'. I use that approximate value as a 'benchmark'. When tooling around gently on say, a K6 1000, it's tall gearing and ample low end are pretty much best-case for fuel consumption on a supersport and iirc, I'm happy when I'm hitting between 40-50 mpg (Honda Civic territory in Canadian gallons, more like 34-38 US MPG)

I've never owned & ridden a smaller bike since the 80s so I assume a 600 spins so much higher than it will never acheive the same economy as the 1000. Am I wrong?
Yup, I didn't get that comment either. Based on Google all three of our bikes get an average of 36-37 mpg which is basically the same as a late model civic.

I haven't ridden a 600 since the early 2,000's when I had a 90's model Katana, currently rocking a 14' 750 and have an 06 CBR1000RR project bike.
 

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that's if they are bone stock, once you start ripping things off adding full systems and so forth all bets are off, seen em go down to 25 with full exhaust and usual mods, block offs so forth... hale I put an Orient Express full Ti on the busa she dropped down to about 34 mpg, lost 10mpg.. so I took it off went back to stock, granted it prolly wasn't tuned proper but the dipshit in seattle on aurora ave I brought it to set it up on the dyno, made a pull and melted by plastics.. so adios amigo, then he had the nerve to tell folks I owed him money for that still.. even years later he was talkin shit.. real dipshit, he failed to put any type of fan in front of the bike, nothing, hale you need a large turbo fan on hi speed blowing at least 65-70 mph to emulate the pressurized box, real goofball, I didn't want it optimized at idle, derp..

I didn't notice the melted plastics till a few days later when I took it in to suzuki for the so called sensor it required.. sorta peeved me, a $475 panel, at the very least he could have taken it off, 6 bolts easy.. idiot.. I think he noticed it melted prolly smelled it but wanted the bike off and out of the shop and me to ride it so he could blame it on something else, I put thousands of miles of high speed miles on it no melting at all.. gave a lame excuse the bike needed a sensor and to take it in as it was under warranty.. took it in they plugged it in, nothing!

so I removed the exhaust went back to stock as he was the only tuner around, left the block off plates on it and clutch mod andminot mods still lost about 4mpg there, but I was OK with 40, not -35 tho.. my car gets that

the Busa I have now has a full Akro Evo system not sure what else under the hood I know the canister is gone, poorly removed as well but it only gets 35 if I am lucky.. however the last time I rode it I unplugged the PC and it seems to run better and get better MPG.. need a good tuner... till then i'm in the market for a full stock gen1 busa system.. could give a ratts about noise and all that peak HP garb, nobody ever gets in my way anywho, they do I'll whoop that trick give em a what for, Mikey don't play that, prolly why my mpg is so poor but hale I used to whoop that stock trick and get 44 no matter what, couldn't figure it out?

no matter how I drove long as it was freeway, we pinned em one day about 140 miles of basically straight/hi sweeps, the 2k3 1000 ran out of gas at about 140 miles busa still had about 2 gallons left, prolly more think it was a lil' less than a half tank? lolololololo 2k3 was bone stock save a few filter mods, good syn oil, iridiums what not, both stock gearing.. busa got them long legs she likes a full on gallop, not a trotter, that was 87 oct in the busa, 93 in 1k! 29 mpg on the 1k!!!! 40+ on the busa!!! guess who had to go get the gas, and buy the can? lol
 

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that's if they are bone stock, once you start ripping things off adding full systems and so forth all bets are off, seen em go down to 25 with full exhaust and usual mods, block offs so forth... hale I put an Orient Express full Ti on the busa she dropped down to about 34 mpg, lost 10mpg.. so I took it off went back to stock, granted it prolly wasn't tuned proper but the dipshit in seattle on aurora ave I brought it to set it up on the dyno, made a pull and melted by plastics.. so adios amigo, then he had the nerve to tell folks I owed him money for that still.. even years later he was talkin shit.. real dipshit, he failed to put any type of fan in front of the bike, nothing, hale you need a large turbo fan on hi speed blowing at least 65-70 mph to emulate the pressurized box, real goofball, I didn't want it optimized at idle, derp..

I didn't notice the melted plastics till a few days later when I took it in to suzuki for the so called sensor it required.. sorta peeved me, a $475 panel, at the very least he could have taken it off, 6 bolts easy.. idiot.. I think he noticed it melted prolly smelled it but wanted the bike off and out of the shop and me to ride it so he could blame it on something else, I put thousands of miles of high speed miles on it no melting at all.. gave a lame excuse the bike needed a sensor and to take it in as it was under warranty.. took it in they plugged it in, nothing!

so I removed the exhaust went back to stock as he was the only tuner around, left the block off plates on it and clutch mod andminot mods still lost about 4mpg there, but I was OK with 40, not -35 tho.. my car gets that

the Busa I have now has a full Akro Evo system not sure what else under the hood I know the canister is gone, poorly removed as well but it only gets 35 if I am lucky.. however the last time I rode it I unplugged the PC and it seems to run better and get better MPG.. need a good tuner... till then i'm in the market for a full stock gen1 busa system.. could give a ratts about noise and all that peak HP garb, nobody ever gets in my way anywho, they do I'll whoop that trick give em a what for, Mikey don't play that, prolly why my mpg is so poor but hale I used to whoop that stock trick and get 44 no matter what, couldn't figure it out?

no matter how I drove long as it was freeway, we pinned em one day about 140 miles of basically straight/hi sweeps, the 2k3 1000 ran out of gas at about 140 miles busa still had about 2 gallons left, prolly more think it was a lil' less than a half tank? lolololololo 2k3 was bone stock save a few filter mods, good syn oil, iridiums what not, both stock gearing.. busa got them long legs she likes a full on gallop, not a trotter, that was 87 oct in the busa, 93 in 1k! 29 mpg on the 1k!!!! 40+ on the busa!!! guess who had to go get the gas, and buy the can? lol
The busa can fit almost and entire extra gallon of gas in the tank, so it's not exactly and apples to apples comparison. Sorry about some tuner melting your plastics, combination of the incorrect air flow (fan) and probably running the bike too lean while on the dyno. I had to trim some of my lower right side fairing where it came too close to my Yoshi pipe in the back by the swingarm. Whoever tuned my bike before I got it didn't know shit about tuning and it ran super lean causing the pipe to get much hotter than it should have. It wasn't that big of a deal, it only melted about a 1/2 inch spot at the edge of the fairing, you can't even notice it unless the fairing is off the bike.

I haven't been at this long but from what I am learning, everyone seems to tune sport bikes for max horsepower which means they run rich and suck gas. Everybody seems to think that extra 3-4 hp is worth more than the 5-10 mpg fuel economy. Perhaps it's just me since I use my bike to commute and not just for a weekend toy. In most instances on a street bike it won't make that much of a difference. My 750 is plenty fast, I don't think I'd notice a couple tenths of a second difference in a quarter mile or top speed run, but to each their own.

Another thing that most people don't realize is that if you add a mod after getting your bike tuned, it usually needs to be retuned for the new mod. I've got the full Yoshi system, K&N air filter, Pair valve disabled, exhaust valve (SET) disabled / removed, and a timing delay eliminator (advances my ECU ignition maps). All of these mods affect my air/fuel ratio's. If I remove one or add another I'll have to redo my tune. In some instances it may not make a huge difference (like my air filter), but for others like the exhaust it would be night and day. And forget leaving the Pair valve installed, you'll never get a proper tune with that dumping extra air into the exhaust stream. Your wideband O2 readings will be all over the place.
 
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