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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello guys,

I just bought spare wheels (second hand) to put slick tires on for trackday use.
On front wheel, seals where missing. I put new ones. On the right side, before putting the seal, I had to remove the spacer. I was like stuck.I put new seal with grease on inside leap then the spacer. Question, how far do I have to insert that spacer ? (right picture is wheel before removing spacer and without seal)

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Thanks.
 

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The spacer 7 is held in place by the seal 4 and bears on the bearing 3. This should be the same as the front wheel on your bike. If the seals are missing, how do the bearings feel ?
I don't understand how the spacer 7 could be stuck to the bearing 3 ?
 

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I didn't get it either, could it be he removed the center spacer? it sorta floats in there, be sure that's all greased up, not heavy but coated.. press bearings in, press fit seals, spacer fits inside seal butts up against bearing, axle and nut holds it all in place?

if you need to know how far that spacers depth into the seal is you might remove it and you will see a thin line around it perimeter where the lip of the seal makes a seat, measure that to the edge? not really getting the question I guess?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks all for your answers.

The reason why I posted on the forum is that the actual spacer was hard to remove. That thing looked strange to me.

I know now the why it "looked" different to workshop manual instruction.
It is because the bearing and the right spacer are different from OEM. And maybe the center spacer too. It does not look like a straight pipe.

Right spacer is 28mm oustide diameter
Right bearing’s depth is 11.5mm instead of 15mm.
Right bearing’s inside diameter is 28mm

Left bearing is ok (I compared to the new one I bought in the front kit seal+bearing).

I think I could use the wheel as it is but wisdom suggest me to swap those spacer and right bearing.

Pictures of right bearing and right spacer
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did you buy OEM from a certified Suzuki rep? 100% the year and model are absolutely correct? could it be 1000R is getting mixed with a non R model or vice versa? do the two models even differ? lastly are you 100% sure the wheels are for that model?
 

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That does not look OEM. Item 5 spacer is not that long and doesn’t have a stepped diameter. It definitely does not fit into the bearing inner ring bore.
This one looks like it had to be pried out.

It looks like someone installed a bearing with a different bore diameter and made a spacer to fit it to the axle.
 

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+1 on something's fishy. You can see several dimensions listed here. The bearing ID is 25 mm. The right side spacer should be the same. The seal ID is 32 mm. The smaller OD of the spacer should be the same. Here's what the spacer looks like:

The rings seen on the smaller OD are from rubbing on the seal. The axle fits into an identical seal on the left side. Its larger OD should be the same 32 mm as the smaller OD on the right side seal. The axle's smaller OD should be close to the 25 mm bearing ID. There should be a spacer between the two bearings with an OD that's slightly larger than 25 mm.

P.S. Some quick checking indicates that even the 600's and 750's used the same 54751-41G10 spacer. So I don't know what yours is for.
 

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Are the markings on this new wheel the same as your OEM wheel ?
What is the inside diameter of the new wheel spacer, ? 25mm ? Does this spacer look home made. OEM spacer is anodized.
Is there a loose internal spacer in the wheel ? ( Hub Bearing Spacer #2)
Is the dimension from outside, left bearing to outside, right (new) spacer correct ?
Has a "Racer" modified this wheel to delete outer seals ? (and inner spacer)
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Are the markings on this new wheel the same as your OEM wheel ?
What is the inside diameter of the new wheel spacer, ? 25mm ? Does this spacer look home made. OEM spacer is anodized.
Is there a loose internal spacer in the wheel ? ( Hub Bearing Spacer #2)
Is the dimension from outside, left bearing to outside, right (new) spacer correct ?
Has a "Racer" modified this wheel to delete outer seals ? (and inner spacer)
This set of wheels comes from a racing team. That is probably why front seals where missing and bearing + spacer were specific.
The rear wheel is almost brand new (no modifications) except the disc which is a floating disc from Gale Speed.

The right spacer fits in the right bearing (which inner diameter is higher), not against, as the OEM one.
The hub spacer is not loose at all and looks modified too.

My interrogation was about this right spacer. When I insert it all in, it looks like a bit too much deep compared to my "road" wheel, so alignemnt with fork and brake caliper could be wrong.
If I put it at the exact same distance than OEM, could it move during a trackday session ? (It it very very tight fitted, so must be inserted with hammer (not metallic) and removed by lever.

I already ordered OEM Spacer and bearings, but won’t be ready for next week end session :cry:
 

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If I put it at the exact same distance than OEM, could it move during a trackday session ? (It it very very tight fitted, so must be inserted with hammer (not metallic) and removed by lever.
Regardless of how far you drive in the spacer it will likely end up against the spacer tube once you torque the axle nut. The oem wheel is designed to have the spacer, RH bearing inner ring, spacer tube, and LH bearing inner ring clamped tight to the RH fork by the axle. No clearance anywhere in the stack.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Regardless of how far you drive in the spacer it will likely end up against the spacer tube once you torque the axle nut. The oem wheel is designed to have the spacer, RH bearing inner ring, spacer tube, and LH bearing inner ring clamped tight to the RH fork by the axle. No clearance anywhere in the stack.
I totally agree with you. I think I need 2 or 3mm more to get the same OEM width. I found some aluminium spacer from bicycle (fork spacer) which are 28.6mm inner diameter and 34 OD (I need a 33x28), so it is quite close. These spacers are available as set of 2, 3, 5, 10mm units. I will give it a try.
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"This set of wheels comes from a racing team."
Do you know who? Ask them who made the wheels and then contact the manufacturer. The manufacturer ought to have whatever parts you need.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
"This set of wheels comes from a racing team."
Do you know who? Ask them who made the wheels and then contact the manufacturer. The manufacturer ought to have whatever parts you need.
These wheels are OEM from Suzuki but have belonged to a race Team (French). I think they modified internal bearing and spacer to match with their need.
Rear wheel is straight from OEM except the Disc wheel from Gale Speed (floating disc).
 

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I screwed up my original post and have revised it. The race team replaced a 25x52x15 bearing by a 28x52x11.5. I can only find 28x52x12 and am wondering if that's the actual width. This is a slightly lighter bearing, about an ounce per bearing, with a ~10% lower load rating. Given that a custom spacer is needed, it sounds like a lot of work for a small gain. I'd think that they could do better with a ceramic bearing.

As best I know, the OEM internal bearing-to-bearing spacer (#2 in your drawing) is steel. Did they also replace it with aluminum?
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I screwed up my original post and have revised it. The race team replaced a 25x52x15 bearing by a 28x52x11.5. I can only find 28x52x12 and am wondering if that's the actual width. This is a slightly lighter bearing, about an ounce per bearing, with a ~10% lower load rating. Given that a custom spacer is needed, it sounds like a lot of work for a small gain. I'd think that they could do better with a ceramic bearing.

As best I know, the OEM internal bearing-to-bearing spacer (#2 in your drawing) is steel. Did they also replace it with aluminum?
I think this adaptation main goal was to save some time when removing wheel during pit stop (endurance race).
OEM spacer can be easily lost during this operation.
I removed my actual wheel from the bike and done accurate measurement. well... it is exactly the same width than the spare wheel I purchased. So no issue at all. I put this wheel on the bike and it moves freely and smoothly, when all screwed at torque.

Thank you all for your help. I learned a lot by reading your answers. I purchased necessary OEM parts to bring it back to original mount.
 

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If that was their goal, it seems to me that they could have made a new nut that included the spacer, particularly since they'd removed the seals and were relying on the bearing seals.
 
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