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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all,
The old girl needs some new rubber....but as I try loosening the front axle the aluminium piece is turning with it.....therefore I cannot remove the axle.
Is there a trick to holding this piece steady from spinning ?
Any constructive help welcome.

Loach

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The side that's spinning freely should have a female hex in it. They make a tool to hold it that has stepped hex sized for different axles and accepts a regular square drive 3/8 or 1/2 ratchet, but I've also used the head of a regular bolt from a hardware store and a pair of vise grips on the threads lol. Just Google "hex axle tool for motorcycles" to get an idea of what I'm talking about, it's pretty straightforward.
 

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^ Not even close :hammer
Perhaps comment on a bike you've actually seen, or touched...ay

The pinch bolts on the side with the sleeve, are to be used as a clamp to allow loosening.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks so far......I think.

I have doused the axle with penetrating oil, and also applied a little heat to area.

Prob is when you tighten the pinch bolts, to stop the spinning it is impossible to loosen the axle.

Tonight I will rattle gun the axle to see if it works, otherwise she goes to the shop and they can deal with it.

Loach
 

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once you have everything loose take a piece of wood and tap the axle out, they can get rusted in and corroded on and be a BITCH to remove. been there done that with my swamp angel.. she all betta now but man, why I grease my axle..

wait that dint sound right, why I apply grease to my axle before inserting it..

welp you get it, apply something that stays and not allow rust and corrosion.. the pinch should do the work so no worry bout slippy slippy.. they hold good

while you re at it if it is frozen in from rust or corrosion, maybe have a look at your wheel bearings, if its been exposed to a lot of water say a FLOOD? then slowly the water drains away like over a 2-3 week period, oh boy things get rusty, perfect storm for rust and corrosion..

if you need new bearings get the sealed style, you can get em in a lot of places, stores, bearing outfits, Ronayers maybe?

you will need 3 for the rear as well, may as well

hale I'd change em out anywho, IMO the same company that made the R/R's made the wheel bearings, they are hideous

people don't realize that the wheel bearing is the #1 friction point, they can rob HP and performance, I put new bearing all the way around on the Swamp Gixxer and man it was like a new bike, it rolled so good I was like man I can coast forever, improved MPG.. also be sure to install them proper as a poorly installed axle can rob as well..

new bearings is a nice feel, almost good as tune up oil change new 520 sprocket kit and tires.. just that feel...man makes me wanna spend the $800 and go for it on the 750 I am restoring.. gonna do all LEGIT LED's as well..

someone makes an LED tail lamp for the SRAD!!!!!! WOO HOO!!!!!!! no more hokey LED bulbs, this is a legit LED circuit board style, so its waterproof and bright as FUGG, people say my Busa brake light will blind you if you look at it...

so both SRADS will get the LED mirrors, those work great and are real cool, what I like about em best is they have a yellow arrow int he mirror side so I can see if I left the signal on without looking down at the clocks... YUP!

then they are both getting those nice turn signals that have the blue on the opposite side as a running lamp, I connect the front to the headlight UK running lamp for the headlight, its not doing anything, I might run all 4 so when the key is int he lock those blue lights are on, only thing I want to install the flash to pass and emergency flashers so has anyone installed modern controls with success?

I know it takes different flasher so maybe the emergency wont work without adding some extree wires but that doable, frame off for the 750 so i'm down with that..

not sure really but the all real LED setup is real nice plus the mirror signals so there are 4 more there.. those mirrors are nice IMHO, they aren't as heavy as the stockers as well, nice shape, great visibility, you give up a tad I spose as the glass doesn't cover as much but they work good IMHO and the new glass is nice, I likes em.. they stay in place and you can lock em down on every axis which is nice, or leave the vertical loose so you can fold em back, I don't fold back so I lock em and they are always there and don't move around on a rough road, that's worth it right there for me..

plus they LOOK GREAT!

the Bus front signals are clear lenses as is the tail but front signals are 4 rows of bullets stacked so they look real modern, def has modern performance now. lighting that is, Busa is still around 50 years ahead of its time I reckin'... :)
 

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I mean an impact ought to get it spinning, but it's odd to need that kind of torque. I think the spec was under 80 ft lbs, nothing insane. But that doesn't accommodate for uh.. technical idiotry, and what have ya
 

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Beating a block of wood with a hammer on the bolt could help it loosens rust etc whatever is holding it there. U could apply penetrating oil try tighten it lossen tight loosen a few times with a impact . Sometimes the force from a wrench is not enuff and u can’t move fast enuff to compare the hammering action of a impact.
 
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PaulPhilly
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