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Discussion Starter #1
I'm replacing all brake/clutch lines with HEL stainless steel. ( Side note , there customer service is great.) Question, I initially ordered the two line kit: Single Lines to each caliber joining at the master together but then I noticed a factory design change with the 93-98 1100s. where the the brake line goes from left to right caliber and then single line to master from one caliber. So I went ahead and had them make me a custom brake line to go from left to the right caliber over the front fender with the proper fittings(45 degree bends I believe). So knowing nothing about brake system set up which is best? I think the factory is a much more cleaner oem look but performance wise no clue. I'm in the process of a complete rebuild so I haven't decided with route to go. If the single brake line to each caliber was a better choice why wouldn't the factory go with it or am i over thinking this?
 

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I wouldve just gone for the lines going directly to the calipers, makes it simpler and easier to bleed. I dont think theres much of a significant difference in brake line routing as far as performance benefits go
 

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Dreaming of buttsecks for years...
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I actually think the single with crossover is better from a hydraulic perspective. Shorter total line length. Separate lines tend to be easier to bleed. As far as performance, you'll never notice a difference.
 

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Dreaming of buttsecks for years...
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Single line is shorter overall, so better from a hydraulic standpoint. Separate lines are easier to bleed. Nothing you'll notice when riding though.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Ultimately I guess that it would come down to personal preference but thanks for the input not sure which route I’m gonna go I’ll photo when I do have it set up
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Got all my parts in and have a couple of rookie questions:

1)Do I use thread lock when reassembling the calibers. (manual didn't say)
2) What type of grease/lubricant do i use on the brake slider pins and also the grease/lubricant on the master cylinder brake/clutch pin handle assembly.

The original stuff was all hard
 

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I agree with the others, performance wise no difference, less abrasion to the forks with the routing you chose. If going with braided individual lines they should be well protected with spiral wrap or will soon seriously chafe the fork tubes.
 

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I don't use grease on the caliper pins, if the pins are in good shape. You could use a very small amount of anti-seize, if you want. I use Suzuki grease on the master cylinder lever. About anything would work there.
 

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The lines going to each caliper is the race setup ( you would have to look into it, either setup is fine imho ). Using my srad 600 with the race setup does feel slightly more positive than the one down and crossover mudguard to the other side.

No thread lock on caliper rebuild, as they should be torque set. ( I do use some blue on caliper mount bolts, just so they dont come loose ).
+1 on the copper slip for the brake pins ( especially where they go into the caliper. ( if they seize in, pig to get out ),
I use normal multi purpose grease on the pin.
 
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sradmad600
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