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First time GSX owner trying to put together a basket-case race bike I bought.

867 Views 33 Replies 6 Participants Last post by  John Durr
Being that I've only ever owned a metric cruiser, I'm not at all familiar with what part is supposed to go where on this bike. Add to that, this was a race bike (big warning on the tree "GP SHIFT") so a bunch of parts are deleted or modified. I don't know what's what. I want to get the bike back together for road use, but I want to keep as much of the race parts on it as I can. I'm currently scratching my head over the rear subframe.

I actually have 3 subframes that came with the project and they're all modified slightly differently. I'm not sure which would be best. I don't know if the rear-most subframe component is required at all, so here's some pics of what I have, the sharpie note scribbled on one of them, and the lovely livery that inspired my screen name.

I don't see a difference between the two rear-most components but the one on the left has the note about not using with the race tail. The race tail doesn't seem to attach to anything beyond the main subframe part (the piece on the right), so I don't know if the other part is needed at all. Additionally, the plastic is cut off on the part to the right kind of hinting to me that the bike ends there.

If I'm street riding this as close to track format as I can, do I need the parts missing from the one on the right? Battery sits most forward, assuming the ecu clips in behind that (haven't got that far yet), anything further back is what, tool kit? storage for registration? Extra bullshit.

Thanks for the help/thoughts/opinions. I'm looking forward to getting this old girl running again.

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On the fly updates:
It looks like there's some bracketry on the left side that would hold some relays or something. No idea what goes there, but the cleanest install would be with the subframe on the left. I can ziptie things in place later on, as long as I have the mount points for the rectifier, which is easiest to route to with the whatever bracket out of the way. I can also add that back later on if I want.

The rear cowl attaches with bolts in one location on either side. There are small holes under where the seat would mount that could probably ziptie the front of the rear cowl in place.

I think I'll trim the plastic from the set to the left in the above photo to tuck in well under the race cowl, and if I figure out what's supposed to be mounted to the relay bracket on the left later on, I'll add that from one of the other subframes.

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Shit. I'm realizing I chose the plastic that doesn't have the bracket that holds the ecu in place.
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Cool project 👍, got the pdf of the factory manual yet?

^ usefull too.

For the subframe, just cherry pick out the two bar sets that arent bent or stripped and toss it on the center plastic to save yourself some grief. Youll know if its bent just by looking at um when installed. All 3 of those are oem subframes, just one on left rattle canned and one on right chopped and passenger support ditched. Not seeing the underside, but a non chopped plastic is pretty uncommon anymore from often an aftermarket undertail being installed. A race tail will fit a oem subframe. A race tail with a under cowl of sorts wont fit the oem tray without cutting off atleast the turnsignal mounts and liscence plate mounts. A race tail without cutout usually needs a riser of sorts. The race tail youve shown uses the oem seat and usually is fully cut out on the bottom like a normal oem tail, so bolt whatever saves ya time and hastle on 👍. Bracket stuff is mounting for the starter relay and fuel relay , reason to retain the bracket really depends on your wiring harness. Might have an aftermarket starter relay, if it has an oem, might as well put the bracket on in a way that doesnt bugger up the tail fairing. Or relocate it for shits and easier access to the fuse 👍

Also, wheres the pics of the goodies? I think I see an ohlins rear there 👍.
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Thanks for the advice.

I'll grab more detailed pics later today, but here she is with all the parts mocked into position.

I mentioned I had boxes and boxes of parts, turns out I have an original 1995 print copy of the service manual, but that color photo of the wiring diagram is going to come in handy for sure.
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600 or 750? carbs?
It's a 750. Carbs? Yes. Are you looking for specific details about them?
no its just that FI is so much easier, simpler .. some come with carb heaters, vacuum this vacuum that .. the 98 600 is real simple, it has the float air pressurized system for the float bowls that's it one vacuum line for the petcock, some may have heaters? some may be cali.. some have all sort of stuff, vaccum assist, heaters.. lots to source .. you'll want to findout which sub model yours is then find out what it had, then wither do a proper delete if possible or source all the correct parts.. other thanthat she gonna be a good bike running properly.. fun specially with today's sticky tires. oh boy, basically you can get quaifiers for the street,might only get 2000 miles on the rear but its a fun 2000 miles ...
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Hey guys, back with a few more pics of the bike.

Drained the tank today, the gas in there came out about the same color as sweet tea, so I pulled the fuel pump. Welp, might as well get a new pump on order before I even start into that headache. Makes me think I should probably drain the tank on my 87 Audi 4000 too. I bet that fuel is probably 10 years old. oops. I need to burn out a temporary cover to seal where the fuel pump mounts so I can wash the tank out with acid. I've got a CNC plasma cutter in the garage so I should be able to make quick work of that.

Wood Metal Terrestrial animal Auto part Safety glove

Looks like I'm missing a steering stabilizer. Bit of web searching leads me to believe I've got the mount (or at least most of it) for a Scotts Performance stabilizer. Hope I can find the rest of the mount and save myself $160, $500 for the kit. Cheap projects are never cheap.

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Anyone recognize the shocks? I can't imagine the bike originally had an adjustable set, but I don't see any branding or part numbers.

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Speaking of shocks, I need to make a call about getting the rear rebuilt/tuned.

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The only other stuff that stands out as aftermarket is the pipes, and this case cover.

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Is Pro-Tek a Japanese company? Aside from ebay, the only place I see them is Webike.
No clue, I just started into bikes like this. I've been riding a cruiser for years. I haven't found anything on the company either, but then, there's stickers on the bike for websites that are long gone, so maybe it was just a company that closed years ago and all thats left is ebay listings for used parts.
look likes the suspension was setup pretty good for whoever was riding it, tire is wearing real nice, it might have internals
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Tonys track days are still around, maybe they know the bike? its a NE bike, Maine to NC.. maybe it was one of Tonys track bikes for the school? I bet its a hoot all set up ..
I've got an extra set of wheels that are already stripped and ready for paint, and I ordered some John Deere yellow powder coat today for them.

I'm gonna need to sell some of my other projects to buy new tires though. Plenty of meat on the ones on the bike, but they're old. That steering stabilizer is going to be a stretch too.

I also have an extra fuel tank, in gonna see if the inside is cleaner than the green tank and if it looks ok I might try to see if it fires up this weekend while I wait for some small parts and pieces to come in.
Well, threw a battery in the bike, no crank.

I've got a couple of harnesses that aren't connected that look like they should have been, but I don't know if they are that important yet. I haven't had a chance to sit down and look over the wiring diagrams.

Right side of the bike, just at the top of the radiator is a pair of cut wires. Orange with green trace, and Black with blue trace. *edit. Looks like the Orange/green Black/blue wires would be the actual horn wires.

Hand Carabiner Finger Rock-climbing equipment Thumb

Coming out of the clutch side controls is a two wire connector that are both black with yellow trace. Guessing these would be the horn. No horn on the bike yet, so I haven't checked into it.

Finally, back near the battery is a green connector with a wire and resistor jumper in it. Can you guys tell me what this would be for?

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It could be. I don't see a side stand switch, but I also don't see a tip over switch. Don't know if a carbureted '96 had a tip over switch. Gonna dig into the wiring diagram in a little while.
It appears I'm missing a clutch switch, but it still doesn't crank when I jumper the pins with a piece of wire. I fucking hate wiring.

*edit. Found a clutch switch, plugged it in, depressed it, still no crank. I still hate fucking wiring.

*edit. Checked resistance on the starter button. No continuity. Disassembled and filed contact surfaces, checked function. Continuity. Reinstalled, tested, no crank....
Jumped starter relay contacts - cranks.

I'm misunderstanding something in that starter circuit, but I don't know what.

*final edit. Bad spots in the clutch switch. If it's fully depressed it doesn't work. Feather it and there's a sweet spot in the middle that makes contact for a second. CRANKS!
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Your front shocks are stock 👍. Internals might not be. Center stem has something going on aftermarket. Looks like an retrofit / adapter for adjustable ofsets. Never seen one on a oem triple like that, very cool if it indeed is.

Very neat little adapter plate to mount the preload adjuster, was debating to cut out something similar for my ohlins rear also. Nice to see a full yosh system on there too. That’ll be a nice srad once up to snuff 🍻.

Glad to hear you got it to crank. Yeah, wiring can be a bugger, but its pretty straightforward on the carb’d srads.

Dig the deere color scheme after seeing it assembled too.
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I also think that was the sidestand switch, mine is like that too except its straight wire no resistor. I had no crank so i bypassed all switches to make sure it wasnt them.

If it isnt the orginal ignition barrel it may not have a resistor which it needs,the the cdi wont send power to the coils if it isnt there. I thought it that on mine but turned out be just corrosion in connector blocks which needed pulling apart then back in a few times
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that looks more like a diode than a resistor.
when you get to the fuel pump make sure to straight edge
from bolt hole to bolt hole to make sure that metal plate is
flat as can be. and check the mounting flange on the tank as well.
any slightest ripple and it will leak. the actual sealing surface on the
gasket for that fuel pump plate is very thin.
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