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got the forks back from Race Tech yesterday and installed them, took the bike out today and man what a difference, the forks are perfect i just need to fine tune the dampening a bit. this was bar none the best mod i've done to the bike. i went from .950 kg/mm springs down to .850 and gold valves and its worth every penny.
 

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Chubby Chaser
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Yup, getting your suspension properly sorted is money much better spent than a comparably costing mod to gain you an extra 5-8hp on a 160 horsepower bike :D
 

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gixxeR said:
What's the average cost of having this work done?
Not bad... Just depends on how far you take it.

Race Tech price list...

http://www.racetech.com/evalving/english/Srchpr.asp?bikeid=332&manufacture=Suzuki&model=GSX%2DR1000&year=05%2D06&TABLEINFO=street&langname=english

The local suspension guru (here anyway) will do the labor and tuning for a hundy if you bring the parts and the forks off the bike.

So if you do f&r springs and f&r gold valves + labor ~ $650.00
That would drop lap times way quicker than any slipon/pciii combo.
 

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Chubby Chaser
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sockethead said:
Not bad... Just depends on how far you take it.

Race Tech price list...

http://www.racetech.com/evalving/english/Srchpr.asp?bikeid=332&manufacture=Suzuki&model=GSX%2DR1000&year=05%2D06&TABLEINFO=street&langname=english

The local suspension guru (here anyway) will do the labor and tuning for a hundy if you bring the parts and the forks off the bike.

So if you do f&r springs and f&r gold valves + labor ~ $650.00
That would drop lap times way quicker than any slipon/pciii combo.

That's a great deal there, no doubt.
 

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Can somebody do a cliffnotes on replacing various parts? Like why would you do a gold valve and not the gold rebound valve? Does a cartridge kit replace all the internals and what's the advantage over doing just the valves? Do the seals and bushings need to be replaced (or is it at least a good idea to)?
 

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easter bunny said:
Can somebody do a cliffnotes on replacing various parts? Like why would you do a gold valve and not the gold rebound valve? Does a cartridge kit replace all the internals and what's the advantage over doing just the valves? Do the seals and bushings need to be replaced (or is it at least a good idea to)?
Good question.

I got a quote for about 1300 for a Penske shock and revalve and rebuild of my forks. I'm going to bo it this winter.
 

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easter bunny said:
Can somebody do a cliffnotes on replacing various parts? Like why would you do a gold valve and not the gold rebound valve?)
I think that would be a cost vs. feel thing, as you would likely notice the improved feel of new compression valve/shimming more than the rebound.

[/QUOTE]Does a cartridge kit replace all the internals and what's the advantage over doing just the valves? [/QUOTE]

A cartridge takes a lot of guess work out of tuning as the cartridge maker can give you new shim stacks that they know will work for your application. I think the main advantage would be the improved adjustment range of the new Comp and Reb needles.

[/QUOTE]Do the seals and bushings need to be replaced (or is it at least a good idea to)?[/QUOTE]

I would, pretty cheap in all.

I'm re-doing my 05 750 forks this winter. I plan on putting in new springs, comp needles and reshimming the stock valves for better feel.
 

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Loves MASSIVE CASCADES of jizz on his face
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800390Bike said:
A good suspension mod will take you faster around the track than a power mod anyday!
+Eleventy-billion mate!!!111
 

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RPG76 said:
I'm re-doing my 05 750 forks this winter. I plan on putting in new springs, comp needles and reshimming the stock valves for better feel.
Thanks for the help, much appreciated. For a follow up, why are you keeping the stock valves if these gold valves are cheap enough and supposed to be so much better? And if you're gonna replace all those parts, why not just get the whole cartridge insert?
 

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easter bunny said:
Thanks for the help, much appreciated. For a follow up, why are you keeping the stock valves if these gold valves are cheap enough and supposed to be so much better? And if you're gonna replace all those parts, why not just get the whole cartridge insert?
Well I ride street only as I have no track near me that I would ride on, having said that.... IMO Gold valves are a total waste on newer Showa forks, they might have some value on the Kayaba forks I haven't looked into it that much. My reasoning is this, Gold valves whole deal is that they flow more oil and put the valving on the shim stack. The Showa 3 port valves found in 2000-2005 Gsxr600/750 forks flow a lot of oil already, some would say too much. The new shim stack on the Gold valves would be better than stock, but why would I want to pay all that money for some thin metal washers?.

Your right about the cartridge being the best solution, but I can't see myself spending $1200 for an Ohlins cartridge. My total costs will be under $300.
 

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RPG76 said:
Well I ride street only as I have no track near me that I would ride on, having said that.... IMO Gold valves are a total waste on newer Showa forks, they might have some value on the Kayaba forks I haven't looked into it that much. My reasoning is this, Gold valves whole deal is that they flow more oil and put the valving on the shim stack. The Showa 3 port valves found in 2000-2005 Gsxr600/750 forks flow a lot of oil already, some would say too much. The new shim stack on the Gold valves would be better than stock, but why would I want to pay all that money for some thin metal washers?.

Your right about the cartridge being the best solution, but I can't see myself spending $1200 for an Ohlins cartridge. My total costs will be under $300.
I knew there was a reason I liked this board so much. Cheers mate, thanks for the info! :cheers
 

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Chubby Chaser
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RPG76 said:
Well I ride street only as I have no track near me that I would ride on, having said that.... IMO Gold valves are a total waste on newer Showa forks, they might have some value on the Kayaba forks I haven't looked into it that much. My reasoning is this, Gold valves whole deal is that they flow more oil and put the valving on the shim stack. The Showa 3 port valves found in 2000-2005 Gsxr600/750 forks flow a lot of oil already, some would say too much. The new shim stack on the Gold valves would be better than stock, but why would I want to pay all that money for some thin metal washers?.

Your right about the cartridge being the best solution, but I can't see myself spending $1200 for an Ohlins cartridge. My total costs will be under $300.

Well, this is the GSXR-1000 forum.

GSXR-1000s have come with Kayaba forks since 2003 I think. Not sure if the K1-K2 had Showas or not. But I really don't understand why Suzuki doesn't just stick with Showas for all the bikes.
 

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SPL170db said:
Well, this is the GSXR-1000 forum.

GSXR-1000s have come with Kayaba forks since 2003 I think. Not sure if the K1-K2 had Showas or not. But I really don't understand why Suzuki doesn't just stick with Showas for all the bikes.

+1

I was just at a seminar held at my local GMD Computrack location and a fellow 750 owner asked me why Pete recommended me getting the forks revalved and not his. The answer is Showa on his 750 vs. Kayaba on my 1K.
 

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SPL170db said:
Well, this is the GSXR-1000 forum.

GSXR-1000s have come with Kayaba forks since 2003 I think. Not sure if the K1-K2 had Showas or not. But I really don't understand why Suzuki doesn't just stick with Showas for all the bikes.
I hope I didn't confuse anyone. I was more throwing out ideas than anything else.
 

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Chubby Chaser
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RPG76 said:
I hope I didn't confuse anyone. I was more throwing out ideas than anything else.

Nah...


Needless to say it's just dumb on Suzuki's part. Even on Aaron Yates' Superstock bike I think they swap the interals on his Kayaba forks for Showa internals.

At least that's what I'm assuming by the Showa sticker on the fork leg.

 
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