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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
ok, so for my birthday tomorrow, i am getting my bike custom mapped finally (a gift to myself).

it will be done at powerhouse racing on a dynojet 250 air/fuel load control dyno.

my mods are:
full hindle race exhaust
pc3usb
denso iridium plugs
520 conversion
oem air filter
royal purple max-cycle full synthetic oil (10w-40)
k & n oil filter

this past sunday, i went to the dyno and got 152rwhp (sae correction with dynojet's map). but now i am adding the '04 750 velocity stacks (got all 4 of them for FREE, thanks owen!), so we will see what my overall hp curve will look like. i am not overly concerned with the peak hp numbers, but how big of a curve i can get.

anybody want to take some guesses as to the numbers i will put out? btw, it will be in the low 60's and sunny tomorrow.

i will be sure to post up the results at the end of the day tomorrow.

wish me luck!

 

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I have similar mods and im going to get mine mapped in two weeks. I would guess your setup would put out close to 160, based on what you posted it did last week, i'll call 158! You should do a PAIR mod, that's good for a couple horse and is darn near free, just need some hose, claps and connecters from PepBoys or any auto place.
 

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159 SAE rwhp....... pair really works better on larger displacement motors, doubt that you will get more than 1-2 if you are lucky. Plus you need to have it disabled for dyno mapping.
 

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ill go 160.....
good luck brotha!
 

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I'm thinking a 1,000,000 gigawatts from that flux capacitor
j'king But I'm sure if we listen close tomorrow we can hear Anthony singing Happy Birthday to ME, Happy Birthday to Me as they crank his bike up on the dyno

 

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159 SAE rwhp....... pair really works better on larger displacement motors, doubt that you will get more than 1-2 if you are lucky. Plus you need to have it disabled for dyno mapping.
Only thing larger than a 1000 is a Busa, that matters anyways, lol, but every single HP matters!.

What do you mean you have to disable PAIR mod for dyno mapping, never heard this before?!?!? Could you explain why?

Thanks bro.
 

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I'm thinking a 1,000,000 gigawatts from that flux capacitor
j'king But I'm sure if we listen close tomorrow we can hear Anthony singing Happy Birthday to ME, Happy Birthday to Me as they crank his bike up on the dyno

Doc: 1.21 Giggawatts!!!!!!!!!!!!
How could i have been so careless?

Marty: What the hell is a GiggaWatt?

AAAAAAHAHAHA, good flick!
 

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159 SAE rwhp....... pair really works better on larger displacement motors, doubt that you will get more than 1-2 if you are lucky. Plus you need to have it disabled for dyno mapping.
Only thing larger than a 1000 is a Busa, that matters anyways, lol, but every single HP matters!.

What do you mean you have to disable PAIR mod for dyno mapping, never heard this before?!?!? Could you explain why?

Thanks bro.
the pair mod puts fresh air into the exhaust, so you will have a false fuel/air ratio if you hook up an exhaust sniffer to the pipe when you get it tuned at the dyno.
 

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HMMMMMMMMMMM, interesting!

I have had it dynoed twice with the PAIR in place and both times the A/F was close to spot on! Which way does the PAIR throw the reading off??? If my A/F is Perfect with the PAIR in place, am i really rich or lean??? Thanks again for the info guys! Also, so how should i go about getting it tuned? do have to take the PAIR OFF? DOH, i threw all the recirculatory stuff away! LOL, oh well, what do you think i should do?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
bmf, powerhouse is in w. babylon. talk to frank there, tell him anthony from gixxer.com sent you, and he will hook you up with a good deal. they do excellent work.

www.fastcycles.com

thanks for the encouragement guys! i am hoping to see around 160 sae, but like i said, i am more concerned with the overall power curve than peak hp.
 

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I am also planing on doing the PAIR mod and velocity stacks on my bike before the custom map, I am interested on knoing what to do to make sure the tuning is done correcly…
 

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HMMMMMMMMMMM, interesting!

I have had it dynoed twice with the PAIR in place and both times the A/F was close to spot on! Which way does the PAIR throw the reading off??? If my A/F is Perfect with the PAIR in place, am i really rich or lean??? Thanks again for the info guys! Also, so how should i go about getting it tuned? do have to take the PAIR OFF? DOH, i threw all the recirculatory stuff away! LOL, oh well, what do you think i should do?

Hmmm, well we were told this must be disabled when we attended the DynoJet school back 3.5 years ago.
Also the help files for the DJ-250/Tuning Link state it must be disabled....... it's all about the a/f ratio. No way that the a/f ratio would not change after doing a pair mod......so any tuning would not be spot-on.
 

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thanks ant..

i have a question about the pair mod though.. if you are supposed to disable it while mapping wouldnt your a/f ratio be off when you reinstalled it? i would think you would want it tuned the way you plan on riding the bike. but i am no dyno guru in the least. just a thought is all.
 

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thanks ant..

i have a question about the pair mod though.. if you are supposed to disable it while mapping wouldnt your a/f ratio be off when you reinstalled it? i would think you would want it tuned the way you plan on riding the bike. but i am no dyno guru in the least. just a thought is all.
The pair system injects fresh air in the exhust above the exhust valve in the exhust port, the sniffer will measure the exhust with the fresh sent in from the pair system. When adjusting A/F ratio you want to measure what is coming from the cyclinders only. That will give you a true reading of A/F ratio. When you hook up the pair after tuning if you put the sniffer back on to measure A/F ratio it should show a lean condition or on the lean side. The pair system does not send air into the cyclinders only the exhust.
 

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HMMMMMMMMMMM, interesting!

I have had it dynoed twice with the PAIR in place and both times the A/F was close to spot on! Which way does the PAIR throw the reading off??? If my A/F is Perfect with the PAIR in place, am i really rich or lean??? Thanks again for the info guys! Also, so how should i go about getting it tuned? do have to take the PAIR OFF? DOH, i threw all the recirculatory stuff away! LOL, oh well, what do you think i should do?

Hmmm, well we were told this must be disabled when we attended the DynoJet school back 3.5 years ago.
Also the help files for the DJ-250/Tuning Link state it must be disabled....... it's all about the a/f ratio. No way that the a/f ratio would not change after doing a pair mod......so any tuning would not be spot-on.
So you're saying that if i tune with it on, and get the A/F PERFECT, that I will actually still be a little RICH? Correct?

Has anyone actually played with this, tuned, then installed or taken the PAIR off and RE-DYNOed, to see what the difference in A/F IS??? Im just curious, want to know as much as possible! Thanks for the responses guys!
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
ok, so check my other psot for the results!
 

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159 SAE rwhp....... pair really works better on larger displacement motors, doubt that you will get more than 1-2 if you are lucky. Plus you need to have it disabled for dyno mapping.
Very improtant! I had some jackass map my 01 back a couple years ago with the pair valve working, I started it up and it couched a couple times and blew raw fuel out the tail pipe. He still charged me the 250.00 and I had to trailor it out of his shop.. Nice job huh!! I took it somewhere else and they got 135 as a baseline before and 166 after fixing it right...
 

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i have done a quasi-pair mod
not going the whole hog with the crankcase breather plumbed in
just basically connecting the two ports to each other and blocking off the vac on No 4
if anyone cares to look at the way the pair valve works in this / standard setup one willl find it will do no harm
and will no way affect the a/f ratio.........

even though doing the full crankcase mod without the pair valve may only affect the a/f ratio very very slightly if measurable at all

people ought to get out of the habit of thinking that the crankcase is a source of unbridled fresh air - this is incorrect, when the engine is first started it maybe, but through pumpage and piston leakage, this soon changes until it is full of spent fuel gasses

bear in mind that the crankcase breathes to release pressure of blow-by from the cylinders only that accumulates in the crankcase, and invariably this is spent fuel vapour (Co) with a little hot oil vapour (no Co so doesnt affect a/f readings)

- so in a way with the full breather mod, the exhaust is still getting its air from the cylinders - but instead of it coming from the exhaust port, some of it will come via the crank case through accumulative leakage past the piston rings

before people start saying this is bullshit - think about it and understand how the system/engine fully works

good luck - mine is similar spec and getting custom mapped in 4 weks time after holidays
here in cold UK i expect 160
 

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look at it another way - if it was possible to put an exhaust Co analyser in the crankase
it would be a fair representation of what was going on in the exhaust system can on an engine that has been running for 5 or 10 mins
 
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