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awsome gimpsta
 

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its the noise you hear when you turn the bike on and you are about to start it, some think its the priming of the fuel.

if you take your air box off you see the little valves open all the way on top of your engine - but they'll just mess up and stay in the last position if the vavle motor isn't broken.

you'll probably need to have somoene talented open it up and replace the soldering if you dont' know how to do yourself.

TheGeek is the man - he fixed mine and it looks SO professional - meaning it looks and is as durable as i sent it to him!!

I can't believe that was alll that was wrong.
 

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TheGeek said:
To anyone having or has had this problem on an '04 or '05 600. PM me if you still have the bad unit. I will pay for shipping. I bet I can find a way to fix it. My guess either the motor goes, or gears, or position sensor. Mine works fine, so I don't want to take it apart. I just want to find a fix for this. So many people having problems, and this thing can not be that complex. If I can fix it, I will return it to you so you can sell it. If I can't, well, then you're out nothing.

Ok I have some pictures of the svta taken apart. I can't figure out how to post them. The best I can tell, ( and I don't know much) is it's some kind of armatron setup, that magnetically pulls the 1st gear clockwise. This gear then works through 2 other gears to actually open and close the butterflies. The only other thing my friend noticed, is the bearing around the 3rd CONTACT Gear is loose and seems to work fine until you actually tighen everything together. Once tightened the bearing spreads the plastic housing out and then the 3rd gear loosens up and doesn't seem to be contacting. Of course at this point the unit is sealed again, and you can only guess. Anyways, if you want it let me know. [email protected]
 

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there are photos posted ezlife, also how to fix it.
 

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Geek, you are my hero! My red light came on a few days ago, and I was bashing my head into the wall trying to figure out how to replace the STVA without having to obtain an entire TB housing. I did the exact same procedure as described in this thread by you, and my bike is now fixed at a cost of $0.00.

I found the largest weakness to be where the connector pins merge with the main board of the motor (circled in red in the photo below). Vibration will cause these pins to withdraw from their mating board, which then separates the solder from the joints. In this location, I removed all the old solder, temporarily placed the motor in its housing for alignment purposes, then re-soldered the joints. Afterwards, the pin pairs read 7.8 ohms respectively, which is what is specified in the Suzuki shop manual.

Another tip for this repair is to thread an M3 screw into the back side of the motor to pull it out of the housing, so as not to put stress on the connector or require crude use of a screwdriver to pry the motor out.

Again, a huge thanks to you, Geek. My bike is my sole means of transportation, so this had to be fixed ASAP.

 

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Thanks everyone that posted on here. Im new to the forum, never really used them much but this was great info. My dealership kept on telling me that it was the SET valve even after I ran the code and told them it was a c28.

After reading the forum i than called and asked about the warranty he put me on hold played with himself, came back and told me it wasn't covered. I called suzuki and infact it was.

If anyone needs to call a dealer the warranty info is on page 70 of the suzuki on road motorcycle limited warranty policy. 5yrs or 18k which ever is first. Hope that helps some people.

Guy was a dick, def not taking my bike there.
 

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Thanks everyone that posted on here. Im new to the forum, never really used them much but this was great info. My dealership kept on telling me that it was the SET valve even after I ran the code and told them it was a c28.

After reading the forum i than called and asked about the warranty he put me on hold played with himself, came back and told me it wasn't covered. I called suzuki and infact it was.

If anyone needs to call a dealer the warranty info is on page 70 of the suzuki on road motorcycle limited warranty policy. 5yrs or 18k which ever is first. Hope that helps some people.

Guy was a dick, def not taking my bike there.
I would at least call the idiot back and tell him that he was WRONG!
 

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I just wanted to add another confirmation that this fix works! Big thanks to Geek!

Got the C28 code, measured the resistance of the terminals on the STVA while it was still on the bike and got C & D at open circuit (should be 8ohms). Took the STVA off and apart just like he said and sure enough the pin on the C terminal had a broken solder joint at the PCB. Re-soldered it (and the other 3 while I was at it) and it works perfectly. No error code now and rides great. Just saved me about $600 for a new part and only took me about 1.5 hours. Sweet.
 

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I bought my bike from a second party, does anyone know if I still have a warranty because of that fact? I got the c28 code as well. This is the second problem ive had due to weak solder.

Thanks in advance,

Chris

Second-hand ownership doesn't matter. The Suzuki warranty states that emissions components are covered for 5 years or 30,000 km (or 18,000 miles for you yanks).
 

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Hi guyz! I've perused thru this thread a bit. I got the C28 :( I have an '05 gix 600. Just over 15K=past emissions warranty...damnit!. Haven't had a chance to look at my manual to see how easy/hard it will be to replace the entire assembly, can you guyz give input as to how long and how difficult. As much as I hate to shell out dealer cost to buy part I lack the time to ebay and wait, just gotta get done b4 school starts in ~1.5 wks. if I can. Also, any gotcha's or things I gotta do/not do when in process of replacing would be appreciated. If I just gotta get to the part, replace and put back together then cool :) thanks.
Shel
 

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Send me a PM. A set of used TBs will cost you a couple hundred. You overnight it to me, I'll fix it that day and overnight it back.
 

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listen to the thegeek, he's just trying to help you out. save yourself some time, money, and excess stress and get back to enjoying your bike.

while i think it is great that some folks do get this repaired under warranty (and it should be), i only met with frustration going that route. tried buying a throttle body off of ebay. i got one that already had a bad stva attached for my $150 or so. the seller had claimed it was good.

now it's going on a few weeks of not riding my gixxer and that sucks, and at this point i'm wondering what i'm going to do. i'd read this thread about 50 times so i decided to drop a line to thegeek.

i sent him both my bad stva and the bad one i got from ebay. he had them fixed and shipped back to me quickly. i put the part back on (there were even directions in the box), turned on the bike; no more FI flashing on my panel. shortly thereafter i was cruising around on the gix. it could have been that simple the whole time, and now i even have a spare.

no doubt there are some people who read the thread and think "but i don't normally do any of the work on my bike". if you can turn a screwdriver or replace a light bulb you can fix this yourself, get your bike running, and have a sense of accomplishment for having contributed to the fixing of your ride.

:cheers 'geek!

edit: this thread seems like it should stick, it contains many workarounds and solutions to this problem; a problem that is beginning to seem inevitable.
 
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