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Discussion Starter #1
hello all, i'm new to the forums, but i'm trying to figure out what's wrong with my '07, 600.
the other day i took it out for a ride. i was starting up the bike, and the FI light came on. i read that it wasn't to be too concerned about, so i took the bike out. my bike rode perfectly for over an hour ride, got lunch, and when i started the bike again, it wouldn't start. i push started it, and it ran perfectly for almost all the way home. it started acting strangely for the last few miles home, guages started flickering and reseting. i got off the freeway, and it died on idol. push started it, and it would start, but die on idol. so i finally started it reved it a bit, and rode it home keeping the RPMs above 5k. i was told that the problem may be the rectifier or the stator, but from a mechanic i do not know or necessarily trust
i also noticed my battery was bad, so i replaced it, and the bike starts fine now, but will it keep running okay?
also, does this have anything to do with my fuel injector? or is that completely separate? because the FI light was my first sign that something was off, along with now, when i turn on the battery of the bike, i hear the fuel pump turn on, but something pulling in the rear of the bike and a loud clack clacking sound

i guess my main concern is the clacking sound. along with whether my stator is a likely problem
 

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Welcome to the site.

First off, FI stands for Fault Indicator, not fuel injection, and if you don't know why the FI light was on, you don't know whether or not it was OK to ride it. You need to put the bike in dealer mode while the FI light is displayed and see what code the ecu is throwing. Hopefully it wasn't oil-related.

Second, you will need to get a copy of the factory service manual, and a DMM, and test both the stator and reg/rec to see if they are still working properly. That generation bike had notoriously bad charging systems.

Let us know what happens.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
thank you!
so i looked into it a little more, and i did a code check and got c28 which is for Secondary Throttle Valve Actuator.
i'm doing some reaserch on that.
i also twisted the throttle a bit with the ignition on, and power switch off. the clacking sound under the rear seat did not occur after fliping the power switch, however i got an added error code of c46 (exhaust control valve actuator) but only got it once. did it again, and only got c28.
c28 has been very consistent.
 

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Ok. Do a search for posts by "TheGeek", he is the local c28 error code whiz.

As for thr c46 code, that is your SET valve, and the motor is probably making the clacking sound.

If you have an aftermarket exhaust you can disable it, and remove the cables from the valve itself if it is still in the collector pipe. You will need to verify that is stays in the open position though, as most default to the closed postion I believe.
 

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Hi guys I have similar problem with my gsxr 600 k8.FI code start blinking always when I accelerate and reduce the gas,no matter how fast I drive or which gear I am.then when I press the clutch engine stop working, and when released him the engine starts again.if I turn off the bike and immediately turn on it FI code disappeare until the next accelerating and reducing on the gas.i check with paperclip FI code and it was c00.
 

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And what code do you get when you check with a paperclip, while the FI light is flashing, before power-cycling the engine?
 

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yes,the FI code come when i drive it.so i can put the peperclip and to ride him until FI code start to flashing,is not problem оr it is?
 

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Yes, just make sure the paperclip doesn't contact any metal. So what I did before I bought a dealer mode switch was to wrap the paperclip in electrical tape and just leave it in.
 

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ok i find the code it is c40.what's mine this and how to fix it?it si expensive?
Cheapest and best option is to flash the ECU and disable the ISC valve. Not really worth to pay for a shop to fix it or replace with a new one.

You could check ISC air hoses that they flow freely.
Also check clutch switch.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Back here again, and I have replaced my rectifier regulator, and tested my stator. However I am still getting the fault indicator notification for the c28 and c46.
Some of the reading I have done has told me that if my STVA is not opening and closing properly, I will feel my bike bogging at higher RPMs, however my bike has been riding perfectly normal.
I took my bike to the shop for a diagnosis, and they essentially told me the same thing as the codes. I supposedly need to replace my throttle body, and my exhaust actuator. However I'm curious if this is entirely true since my bike is riding normally. As far as my exhaust actuator goes, I have noticed my bike sounds a bit different at mid range RPMs, and I can hear the SET valve motor malfunctioning before starting the engine. I have been thinking about replacing my exhaust pipe for an aftermarket, and disabling the SET valve, however I'm curious if I will need a full exhaust system or if a slip on will be sufficient.
 

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You probably don't "need" either if you just want to get rid of the set-valve. You can just disconnect it and remove the motor. If you get a full exhaust or go with a slip-on and get rid of the cat, you need a PC and custom map or at the very least an ECM reflash. You can try and fix your throttle body if you like?
 
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