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I've got a K4 Gixxer 750 and occasionally i get an F1 code and the red indicator light top right hand side of instrument pannel flashing is this common?:wtf
 

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i've had it happen on my k6. i was told to turn the bike off, turn the key back to the on position, but don't start the bike, turn it off then start the bike. this is supposed to reset the FI light. Worked for me.
 

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britjoe said:
I heard its pretty common and its related to the throttle position sensor, a suzuki dealership should be able to reset the sensor, or ajust whatever, but it cost you $150 DOLLARS FOR A NEW SENSOR.
I hear it's a wire you can clip and it will fix the problem.
 

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wingman said:
i've had it happen on my k6. i was told to turn the bike off, turn the key back to the on position, but don't start the bike, turn it off then start the bike. this is supposed to reset the FI light. Worked for me.
This is what I do.
 

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Thats what i do aswell, i don't think you should cut any wires as the bike will probably go into limp home mode (ie retard the timing and richen the fuel)
 

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Just checking but you guys do know about the dealer mode right? If not, find how to put the switch on your bike. flip the switch and read the code, it will tell you what is happening with your bike. no more red light and you know what is going on. Have a great day.
 

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i have search for bugman projects he has a way to install a button so u can bring the code up and use your service manual to find what the code means i have the website on my other computer if you cant find it just let me know ill look it up for ya
 

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BTW turning your bike off clears the code and your going to have to wait for the light to come back on inorder to find the code again
 

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Bagman has not figured out the 3 wire variable, is my guess. It does not matter what resistor you use. You need to ping the GPS with .060v to communicate to the ECU's CAN Communication wiring. A c31* (see the code pages on the bag's website*). It steers you in day face the same code. I do not care what value you stick in the wire harness. If you do not see the 3 wire variable that you are locked out no matter how you ping that closed loop ping to the CAN Comm System, you are lost in the diagnostics.

Diss is why I continue to have fun with disshit from website to website, (lose my password dissing the text, not the person = Watch me teach myself my walk of the book, is). You is missing the basics (not me); and it is steering use in day face if you just open the book and read how the bike codes to fail-safe.

What you feel is a fuel bump. If the bike were running retard, you would cook a temp bar higher and loose power. The code does the opposite if you grab a handful and the front wheel lofts, plus the bike runs ragged edge crisp >> 'Ol baghamtohismanhood, had to toggle the bike's tune down to where he could handle the throttle again all stock retard......LOL.

Tell me the fuel kick is not a power kick to wheelie advanced mode.... I'll begin laughing at how one goes about tuning a computer bike..... 3V's is 3V's of base sick variables locked in nature's way of your existence ear on diss earth; you messing with air; compress it; feed it heat = expand it as quick as possible = HP.

3V's equal = Fuel-Spark-Compression... Remove one and ANY engine will not run.... Period... Do you agree that the 3 variables scream ABSOLUTE? You absolutely do something; like remove one of the 3v's and the bike will need to finger/fighting you be biting on that whole diagnostic tree for, 1 Variable. Pretty easy to find more absolutes to repair or find that 1 variable of a branch to say, compression. Tight valve is an absolute compression remover from the 3V's. See that lock-down? Not the lock-down on the tight valve being open, but the absolute way one of the 3 variables will lock you out from starting the bike.

Now, forget the mechanical variable. Try next the Spark variable. Figure that is one big azz resistor. You need watt? Some applications need a 5 ohm resistor to run one ignition system, the other needs a 3 ohm for say, points. 3V the wires... Remember, they also run in 3 absolutes to complete a circuit. Enter the computer world and you have more resistors in one coil, say. The game has changed, but the ping stays the same. The ping is called a CAN Communication LOOP. It is one big ping in a loop that each sensor is registered before it is ready to be code free. No matter the resistance in the closed loop, the ping is like from a 1 to an 0 is that step to a code out of all the resistances valued and computed from A pinged back to B.
OH kKKKKKKKKKKKKK. I have recognized an absolute in the wire variable. I'm just wondering if I am looking in a bag of tricks and day smoke ring a ding my ping is calling MR. Bag-0-Same c31; Meaning, no matter the resistor be a 15K or a 270 ohm KKKKKKKKk, I'm going to trump my move on the, bagman and his Bag-0-Can't-Resist-Tores another failed try to the same code 31 fail-safe backup to the 6th and final fuel cut; me up laughing it up.... Is me following the shop manual and not bagman. I do not need the bagman or anyone else telling me what gear they think they are chasing when the book says it all in that fuel cut safe mode to (6) < Lowest safe fuel cut signal you cannot touch is that code locking you out from any gear you think you can ohm-capture wit an ohm my goodness.... Read the FSM already... Sicken make me.

What I can do I believe, is read the shop manual (so you can follow it too)....... Is to point out how someone can explain in sequence, (as the bag did); and understand his thinking a different resistor will work when the 3 Very important aspects of the (wire) variables only work one way. They are the thought process needed in the electrical diagnosis; if one is to find a wire problem; rather then sit dare and stare at it. It is so easy to think the 3V's for any wire. 1. is the Hot-side 2. Is the Resistor and/or wire 3. Is the Ground that completes the loop or the ping from A to B is that closed loop... sans the technical with the fuse and or sensor in between... Think generic wiring.
3V's equal = For example. Lets use the computer wires. Only 3 ways a computer reads the close loop ping: 1. Either the connectors are not connected together in their perfect closed loop system or it brings on that one code for that one sensor. 2. If a wire pushes out of the connector female/male hole, then this is the 2nd variable to code. 3. The last variable is a wire touching direct to ground; like a direct short and blows the fuse.
Say the fail-safe is a backup fuse box. This keeps the rest of the wires tied into the fuse box from burning down the other wires direct to that ping to ground. Say the wire does not spike a fuse but is rubbing on the frame. That rub so happened to cause a 15,000hm resistance value. Guess what? 3rd and final wire in the absolute way the ping works; is for the wire rub is pinged to the ECU. What that ping did not do is find that 0.60V ping all the way thru the GPS (A Ping=wires in/B Ping=wires out) from 1-N-2-3-4-5-6 and then out to the next sensor tied in with the GPS, (speed sensor/coils/side stand/etc. That is the ping thru each resistor that computes 0.60volts at the GPS, (alone). The ping and the system is CODE FREE on that GPS signal. Now, if say that GPS wire was rubbing and that one wire strand in the GPS harness was a 270 ohm resistance rub?.... What code do you think will still pop up? If you fail remembering the, 3-engine-start-variables, (you die with), then it is like forgetting the 3v's to the wires........... or listen to bagman....... Yeeah, and it is year choice how long in the dark you close the shop manual and follow whoever/watt ever you need to figure out. I already have read the shop manual... Lots of them and they all have the same generic code to the GPS. It is how the computer bike functions in the electrical and in the generic FI family of sensors. Call it the, 4th-Die-Mention I coined that for my abstract think how the book thinks so as to read and understand the FSM.

Damn, disshit is fun wit day fallacies run rampant each day on the net. If only one would just read the shop manual in the generic..... You would not need bugman to steer you in that wild-card direction of retard my azz.

You feel a fuel aerodynamic change in the cylinder chamber fire is watt I feel. Lots more fuel (I read my spark plugs); than air is now a little bit more powerful.... LIMP My Azz. More fuel cut is limp and the HP gain is in retard to fire off more fuel? FOOL ME?... It just does not walk as how I recognize a fuel bump to tuning the computer bike.

Read the FSM. They built the bike and THEY (not bag nor I) know how it really works... Basically speaking. It tells you more or less what that hack to the GPsig you be messing with a bunch of ohms law and ping the ding out of the bike.... LOL.... That much I know... You remain in the 6th gear like the FSM references to. OHM<is still laughing it up, (care to join? First read the FSM).

Better recognize a simple sampling of the book against the 15K OHmmmm my goodness.... I have no clue why no one is calling bag on disshit. Who is not reading the FSM...???

You may now throw up the WATT DAY FUG Flags.... Diss Claim Her and all that is bagman in theory though. In his electrical wiring.... Not one complaint on the rest of his well planned out website. Good write is the "Bugman"... The theory needs a fuse, In my personal opinion...I'm just raggin' on the bagman in fun. I just lit one end of his wire. I'd leave it at data....... It's gonna smoke day room all up ear anyway.... Get year shop manuals or dribble click his code pages and read up...

Trust me... Diss ain't no MMI class... Diss is like; walk up to any computer bike and fix day think I thing I can get it back up and running, and die bye the 3V's of the wires and bikes running need Vee's.
 

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wow, and if anyone understands that, it acomplished what about the Dealerswitch? really, just asking?
 

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Morgy, What this breaks down to say is that no matter the resistor used or tre or gee-0-pro... Whatever the case, you install that unit into the closed loop Can Communication system, it will set the same fault code. So basically, Bagman using his bag of 15K ohms or me using a 270 ohm resistor will still default that "same code hack to the ECU," as in the same C31 to the GPS wire(s). Use the other wire (off the GPS) is another code hack.
On the first year Busa bikes, they can either hack into the air cleaner flappers that default to WOT, or the fuel bump to cause another code. If you take a tre/15k/270 ohm resistor and reinstalled it on the other GPS wire and coded a c31* is all you are doing to the black box. It was in the box to begin with? Understand the concept? It is not the tre being something hidden inside. It is the same as saying; something is hidden inside the 15k ohm? Is what I do not understand why there is so much confusion to a simple hack job or default code.
As far as I can understand of the code and the fuel maps, the lower the volt, the higher the fuel quantity. So, you will not see me on a 200 MPH bike with a fuel set at 5th gear (which you never could since day one - Read the shop manual to know it is not a 5th gear whatever is going on... It is not reading a higher volt count with less gas to go over 200 MPH. Make sense to use the 6 default like it says in the book... Like the volts show more fuel in the 6th than someone coming up with their own theory and not read the shop manual since the day it was published... I am not again dissing the person(s) who steer from book theory or the 3V's on that wire absolute way the hack will default.

You can walk up to another universal FI computer bike and either hack into one of the GPS wires. There are 3 wires, (1. Ground wire - 2. GPS-secondary throttle plates go WOT (14) and/or the air cleaner flappers open WOFlappers (Busa) lastly - 3. 6gear fuel bump, (c31-Busa/c25-ZX-14- e.g.). Both GPS wires tie-in with the second wire, third wire, then wire in with the CAN Comm pings that have to read the ohm resistances thru each sensor component, (is that closed loop wiring). If say in the throttle bodies of a ZX-14, the 'subthrottles' (secondaries) are equivalent to the 1999 Busa's air cleaner flappers, then that is one universal FI function working in both bikes basically the same way. Both slow air flow characteristics (at these stations), open for more air is all they do. The dual throttles sorta work like an old constant velocity carb. Thats that 'linear' feel at the throttle.

The flap in the Busa air cleaner compartment will swing open and cause a 'code event'. Swap the 15k or a 270 ohm resistor onto that wire so you do not short and blow fuses is the trick. There will not be a 5th gear resistance reading where you run the 5th gear map? Gotta read the book to see who is write... Me or Bag for that resistance read. Then go to or ask anyone how the tre works and you might ear that 5th gear scenario. Sorry, not gonna work in my ears... Or you'll be earing about it like now is a good time.

I think someone better read the shop manual one more time. That in a nutshell is what I am having a little fun with. Say you missed it reading the shop manual? I'm just reading over your shoulder... Pointing out your, '3V's' is another coin I use to understand the manual. You need to understand both 3V's (engines run/wires work in, 'absolutes'), so again, (there is no conflict as to how the bike works in the generic), is how I am able to read and understand the factory service manual and how the codes go into default mode. Without the these basic concepts, you then except the con about the 15K ohm hack. And basically, so did the author, (Bag).

You really need to convince me about that bike code and that hack attack. Or, did I convince you to read the shop book and try to dispute my absolute... Is just my opinion on the interpretation of the 15K/270 Homes used is home to the shop manual and open the code pages... then read up. No Dealerswitch schooling fooling me. I sorta picked up thi$ FI thinking (the hard way), all on my own. If you expected me to re-lie on Bag (no offense to the person, just the tech walk and talk), to understand what he just did... No thanks. I have a shop manual in hand... Ready for year questions.



That is all the Bugman/Bag-0-diodes is duplicating. A hack at the backup codes in fail-safe mode. Sorta get the idea? School me, school you.

If not, you need to reread the shop manual and it explains it right there in black and white. No tricks to learn using a 15k or a 270 ohm resistor to, 'hack-the-back' is what I like to call it. This is "Tech Forum"... You want an off the wall opinion.... I've got year answers to get year bike back up and running...

The diagnosis might be going in the wrong direction, but it will still be valid for another day. It is more or less an internet call me not there at the bike front and center. The diagnostic think will still get you to narrow it down more or less remove my suggestion and we try again.

This is a very technical bike and it can be understood very easily. You more or less have to think like me if you need a concept to understeer the standards to Fuel Injection. This is just one specialty area. Pick a subject on the bike and I will squeeze the road tar back out of the tire is that squeeze to year head to school uses 15k soldering fooled you!
 

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Soo, your saying the TRE mod does not correct the firing position but increases the amount of fuel being tossed in the lower gears. and then when you shift into a gear past the level of resistance you will throw a FI signal light because the bike is in the constanst fourth or fifth gear fuel bump when you the bike are in Sixth? I am trying to understand, just never read someone going into deep detail about the TRE mod. I am not trying to be antaganizing either.
 

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Basically morgy, this is a very simple fail-safe step in the practical. The book read is in the abstract. The computer bike is generic between brands and they basically follow the same backup system to Fuel Injection.
The detail is just the insight or how the walk can walk the talk if you can follow my understanding of the shop manual. The fuel is basically in the digital, but the analog is more or less another way of plotting fuel.
You know how things go opposite like say the interest rate or a stock dividend. One falls and the other rises. Then if the voltage is lower in 6th and not 5th gear, would you go over 200 mph if the factory used 6th to plot that fat rich not knowing if you would take it over 200... They do not have to ask. It will use the fat map so things are safe as in, 'fail safe.'
Therefore, the 3 wire variable will trump anyone thinking they can use a device to change what is designed in the bike already. The tre triggers what is behind door # 2.
 

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my bike is in limp home mode due to so called mechanic who re joined the wire that was cut at the ecu when i put race can on. the bike was with him because it wouldnt start. the problem was the kill switch being falty . does anyone know how to get it out of limp mode without an expencive trip to the dealers
 

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mechanic who re joined the wire that was cut at the ecu when i put race can on. the bike was with him because it wouldnt start. the problem was the kill switch being falty . does anyone know how to get it out of limp mode without an expencive trip to the dealers

undo what he -- your mechanic did to see if limp mode is gone?
 
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