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Discussion Starter #1
Bike used to start right up in Korea (w/ the FCRs) over the winter. 5 twists to the throttle and she'd fire right off and warm up slowly. Same weather here now (20s, w/ maybe 20-30% more humidity), and she'll fire off and then die. 2 more squirts, fire off and die. Do this about 5-10 times (10 this morning) before she caught and then sounded like 2 of the cylinders weren't firing. Once I got the idle up, she backfired and sputtered thru the carb(s) and then evened out. Went out to start up this afternoon after sitting all day, same thing, but air temp is about 45. Plugs are clean and new and other than that, I've done nothing to the bike since bringing it back from the Land of the Not Quite Right.

Why would (all of a sudden) she start so damned hard? :scratch And be missing cylinders at first? Gas lines are unobstructed, petcock is flowing nice, no blockage at the fuel filter (haven't installed yet!).

Any ideas?

I'm getting to the point that I miss having a choke. But this has to be something here since under the relatively same conditions in Korea everything was fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I don't think so, btry is less than a year old and is a Yuasa. But then I need to check the volt level just to be sure.
 

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Your bike is in "climactic shock" This occurs when a bike becomes use to ingesting air from a specific region or climate then is forced to reacclamate itself! The air in korea is of a specific density, quite different from the air back in the states. It varies in molecular density from region to region. An example of this is hot air vs cold air. everyone knows hot things expand and cold things contract. Hot air is physically larger than cold air and will not fit into the same space. (IE your combustion chamber). Time zones will also affect your bikes internal clock and could be throwing the timing off as well, adding to your problem!
 

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It's the glue, I tell ya, the glue. After years of huffing as a teenager, the delayed effect has finally arrived:eek:hmy:eek:hmy

Your bike is in "climactic shock" This occurs when a bike becomes use to ingesting air from a specific region or climate then is forced to reacclamate itself! The air in korea is of a specific density, quite different from the air back in the states. It varies in molecular density from region to region. An example of this is hot air vs cold air. everyone knows hot things expand and cold things contract. Hot air is physically larger than cold air and will not fit into the same space. (IE your combustion chamber). Time zones will also affect your bikes internal clock and could be throwing the timing off as well, adding to your problem!
 

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I'm with DW with the battery and maybe flooded from to many cycles of the accelerator pump.A fiend of mine use to have FRC's on his 1100 and swore at 2-3 cranks when it was chilly out,The pump stroke is adjustable.
 

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I am of the opinion that 'Dr. Phil' has nabbed Srad, and stollen his I.P. address.

Flat slides are a pain in the ass, but usually worth it, it is fairly normal to have to hit them 3 times or so, but I had a battery fail fairly quickly, short trips, cold weather. I now have a battery tender on every bike that I have and starting isn't as much of a problem. Suzukis' are kind of funky when it comes to voltage drop, and when you close to the threshold the ignitor will not fire- this may be whats going on and is probably the cause of 'cylinders' not firing, untill the generator spins enough voltage to make the ignitor fire correctly. Cold temp cause the compression to raise slightly, starter motor to work harder, and the bxt9blahblah battery is just barely enough to do the job on a good day. Just my opinions/observation.- btw the tender did revive my 'dead' battery, so I have a spare now. (it doesn't help that our fuel petcock is counter productive either- I am sure there is a reason for the 'vacuum' line)
 

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A couple of things come to mind,,if you have the stock fuel petcock check your vacumm lines as there maybe a tiny crack also check to make sure if its a dual outlet that both lines are flowing fuel,,another things is to richen up your idle screws just a bit,, like an eighth of a turn will make a big difference on cold weather starting,,the same with the part throttle air screws an eight of a turn in will help,,I went threw this every spring and fall when I was running FCRs on my old 1100,,
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Checked the btry, it's holding at 13v charged so that ain't it. Pulled the cables at the terminals and for good measure cleaned/sanded them to ensure full contact. Still started to do it again after I started it -- was sitting for maybe 2 hours.

Isn't the petcock. It's a Pingel. That's really all there is to say about that. And it flows well as i discovered the other day when I forgot to turn it off as I disconnected the fuel lines. :D

But after reading Dave's and Davew's comments, I think I might be flooding it. I'll try 2-3 twists next time to see if there's a difference. Already run the idle screw up 1/16 of a turn and that didn't make a difference. Any more than that and it sits and warbles when she's warm, which drives me nuts.

And for SRAD, it ain't the altitude, we're not much higher here in KS than we were in Seoul. We were at sea level in Seoul, 900' here in Leavenworth.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
(Laughing to myself) Was already thinking of that.

Spoke to the gray beards at Cafe Racer today in KC. (I'm freezing cold as I type this, it's 33 outside as a high temp and I've been out all afternoon on the bike. :D Went to see the new '08 Busa at one point.) Consensus is that my slow speed circuits may be gummed up w/ crappy gas. They've been on for over a year now and since I've been riding in two different locations (vastly different gas qualities?) I might as well pull the carbs over Christmass and get them cleaned and static jetted and then verified on CR's dyno. (Got some great insight as to why the HD might be running less than optimal too... but that's another story.)
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Ain't the plugs. Changed those out last weekend and it was doing it w/ the old plugs too. Don't think 4 plugs w/ 3 different heat ranges helped much (damned Koreans), but while it runs alittle better now it's still goofy when trying to start.
 
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