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ok... i think its time for my lazy ass to gear the bike a tad better..
from all the reading i have done around here i think what i want to do is -1 in the front and +2 in the back as well as a 520 chain...
the questions i have are..
How easy is it to install this on my own? any write ups anywhere you can tell me about?
where is the best place to get these at? and what brands do you recommend?
I also want to calibrate my speedo so that its not off.. I've heard of speedo healer, where can i get that? and is it hard to install??

thanks
 

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speedo healer is not hard to install. I got mine from socalsportbikes when they were running a special. check in the group buy forum. unless your using the bike for the track and are seriously competitive, a 520 chain is a big waste of money. it's going to wear out quicker, and the gains from less rotating mass you won't be able to notice on the street. also, if your changing the chain and both sprockets, you should go + in the back and not - in the front. just go +5, that's about equal to your -1 up front and +2 in the back. The reason is to keep the front at a decent radius so the chain doesn't have to make such a tight turn.

I would reccomend 525 chain and +5 in the back. I bought mine from http://www.sprocketspecialists.com/html/main.shtml and they will cut the chain at the correct length for you. remember to get a rivet type link $7 because most chains come with clip style.
 

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A good 520 chain is stronger than a stock 525 chain and it is also cheaper than a aftermarket 525 chain. Todd at Cal-sportbikes has the most knowledge about sprockets/types/styles/chains of anybody that I know. Give him a call and he will give you the straight up answer on what you need for your riding style/use and what you need to accommodate your style. I have a AFAM steel -1 up front, a Sidewinder Tri-metal +2 in the rear, with a DID VM chain WITH the rivit link!! (a must have!!!)

Rob
 

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why do you guys say the rivet link is a must have?

I've never had a failure with masterlinks. dirt or street

should i buy a lotto ticket based on that?
 

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I had two master links brake on me

FIrst one and major one was on an old gpz500s we had total rebuild 2000kms before

Going thru some forest twistys with mates, fairly fast(guys on tl1000r, etc) going thru odd corner i could hear a tapping, pull over check nothing major i could see wrong, contine like this for another 40kms, pull out to major intersection, turn go 25 meters down road, chain comes off locks up rear, i am bloody lucky i pulled out of interesection slow was only doing about 60-70km/h there was a black line on the road 15 meters long, i was lucky i didn't go in the bridge that i was crossing.

From then every bike in the family gets a rivit link, no matter what
 

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I would rec max -1 down in front & you can go up or down whatever you wish in the back.Ck www.roadracinghelp.com -there is gear chart you can consult.Use the rivet type master if you can & be sure to use the special rivet pin spreader when assembling( they are about $100 -pricy yes-but once you've got one its yours forever).The spring clip masters tend to fling the clip off & the next thing you know-your chain falls off-which can get very expensive to repair(crankcases)-if you're hanging it out at the time.520 or 525?-its up to you-find the best deal
 

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Here are some general, hopefully helpful, tips on chains/sprockets...

1. -1 in the front is roughly equivalent to +3 in the rear.

2. Dropping teeth in the front puts some extra stress on the drivetrain. The more you drop in the front, the more stress on the drivetrain.

3. Adding teeth to the rear is more "drivetrain friendly" but you would need a longer chain, pending on how many you add.

4. Forget about weight, use a steel sprocket if available. They're stronger and will last longer.

5. Use a rivet master link. They are stronger and more reliable. The disadvantage is not being able to remove it once installed, you would have to cut the chain.
 
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