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Discussion Starter #1
08 1k gixxer, found the #5 pin to remove the FI light from coming on for the exhaust valve actuator, at least I think its the right one? sitting on the bike its the right hand plug in??
anyway, how in hell do ya remove the pin from the big plug in??
I stumped..

thanks
 

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08 1k gixxer, found the #5 pin to remove the FI light from coming on for the exhaust valve actuator, at least I think its the right one? sitting on the bike its the right hand plug in??
anyway, how in hell do ya remove the pin from the big plug in??
I stumped..

thanks
Easy...just remove the plastic cover off the plug too the ecu and depin the one you want to remove.

Just use a fine (small) watchmaker size flat-edge screw driver and remove the plastic cover from the connector, as it just raises up and will lift out with a bit of pressure.

Pete
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Easy...just remove the plastic cover off the plug too the ecu and depin the one you want to remove.

Just use a fine (small) watchmaker size flat-edge screw driver and remove the plastic cover from the connector, as it just raises up and will lift out with a bit of pressure.

Pete
thanks ole chap, will give that a try..
 

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Pete is right. You'll see that in numerous Yoshimura instructions where they make a "screwdriver" out of a paper clip.

Be sure to plug the hole. Remove one of the other plugs (they're white) for a guide as to what is needed. Basically you need a piece of plastic of a suitable diameter. A small length of insulated wire will do. If you don't, the waterproof seal of the connector is defeated and moisture/condensation can get in and corrode the ECM pins. This may be particularly important in Canada.

Cutting the wire is poor form.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Pete is right. You'll see that in numerous Yoshimura instructions where they make a "screwdriver" out of a paper clip.

Be sure to plug the hole. Remove one of the other plugs (they're white) for a guide as to what is needed. Basically you need a piece of plastic of a suitable diameter. A small length of insulated wire will do. If you don't, the waterproof seal of the connector is defeated and moisture/condensation can get in and corrode the ECM pins. This may be particularly important in Canada.
Cutting the wire is poor form.
got the pin out now have to find a piece of plastic wire to plug the hole. I filled the hole with 'electric grease' to keep the moisture out but stuffing a piece of wire in there is a much better idea.
and yer right, cutting the wire is poor form, specially if ya fuck up and snip the wrong one..:nono
thanks for the help..
 

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The dummy plug is JAE part M120-55780. Both Digi-Key (closest to you) and Mouser sell it but the shipping costs will greatly exceed the price of the part.
 

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Hi all,

Having got the connector apart to remove some cut off wires in my loom, I cannot get the wires all pushed back into the connector so the white locking retained will clip shut. Spent 2 hours trying to get all the wires pushed in equally with no success! Any ideas how to achieve this?
 

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What year? This thread was about K7/K8, which has JAE ECM connectors with orange retainers.

"Cut off wires" does not sound encouraging.
 

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It's a K2. Wires have been cut as it has a steering wheel instead of handlebars! So a fair amount of the bike wiring is redundant. Sadly it was originally done by someone who was clearly a bit of a bodger!
 

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Might have been worth starting a new thread with your specific bike and question rather than replying to a post from 2017. :)
Also, we usually ask new members to post a little bit about themselves in the 'starting line' area.
I don't have many tips though, other than wiring is a major pain and takes the patience of several saints...
Good luck!!
 

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Here's my bike! The wiring is a mess and I am just looking to tidy what has been retained from the GSXR loom. Some of what was done by whoever adapted the loom originally is shocking. My question was only about how to reassemble the connectors as I am clearly missing a trick there.


568840
 

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Download this and look at pages 4 & 5. Note that all pins need to be bottomed. Yoshimura seems to be trying to purge the world of this information. Fat chance.

An overall pic is useful but we really need a pic of the connector that's giving you problems. With regard to cut off wires, some leads to the ECM can be omitted but not many.

P.S. I'm a tad uncomfortable with using a valve cover bolt to support the throttle body.
 

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OK, so today I went back to the car, tackled the 26 way connector which suddenly and simply clipped closed and I was able to lock the pins. 8 cut off wires removed from that one which are non functional for a bike engined car. Tried to do the other connector a 36 way version and go nowhere after pulling out the pins for the dozen or so cut off wires..

Resorted to the internet and discovered after some time the connectors are the same as a Hayabusa and those used on Motec ECUs (motorsport).

More interent research reveals they are these here: https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/automotive-connectors/7267014/ and the documention to use them is here: https://docs-emea.rs-online.com/webdocs/1380/0900766b81380a27.pdf

It seems the process for removing a single wire s to open the "locking nails" and pull the cable from the rear of the connector. Its not designed that the two main mouldings of the connector should be separated, which is what I did. Now regretting that a bit.

So ordered some blanking pins and will set about trying to get the 34 way connector to go back together tomorrow. I rather think lots of photos will be required and I will have to close the connector housing back when it has no pins inserted and then add the wires back in.

If you don't hear from me in the meantime, that's what I'll be doing!

Good news though is that if I can pull the big connectors of the ends, this means that I can rebuild the loom and bind it in heat shrink to make it 1) neater 2)more reliable.
 

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Download this and look at pages 4 & 5. Note that all pins need to be bottomed. Yoshimura seems to be trying to purge the world of this information. Fat chance.

An overall pic is useful but we really need a pic of the connector that's giving you problems. With regard to cut off wires, some leads to the ECM can be omitted but not many.

P.S. I'm a tad uncomfortable with using a valve cover bolt to support the throttle body.
Hi Bill, Those are the connectors and I think above I have explained how I pulled the plugs apart incorrectly. Ho Hum. The Throttle bodies are also supported from underneath and everything has been fine for around 500 miles including a good few track days. There are a few less than ideal bits in the conversion, and I will get to them one by one. Once all the mechanics and electronics are put together properly, I'm going to strip the car back to a bare spaceframe for a full cosmetic overhaul. The chassis is 10 years older than the bike and 45k miles with an oily old crossflow in it before the conversion!
 

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I don't know if it means a hoot but the OEM connectors look like this:

They have two notches on the top and one on the bottom while the connectors in the uk.rs-online.com pics have two on top and bottom. This is explained in the document in the Housing 34 way pin Superseal link but I've never bothered to wade through it. The notches might be alignment keys in which case they're important. AFAIK those connectors were originally made by AMP, who was merged into TE Connectivity and the part numbers were reassigned. It's made things hard to figure out.

Congrats on using dummy pins to fill the voids. People oftentimes don't and pay the price later with corroded pins and failed electrics.
 

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Thanks Bill, Those are the ones! Dummy pins on their way but hard to get in quantities of less than 1000! Farnell had them in quantities of 10 part number 2310245
 

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It may not help you but Mouser and Digikey sell the plugs in quantities of one. They're $.12 ea. at Mouser. I haven't pursued this but TE Connectivity may sell direct.
 
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