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Discussion Starter #1
Well.. I put the bike on the Dynojet today. If you live in Arizona look up Monster cycle performance/ECS cycle. These guys are SERIOUS Suzuki gear heads! One of the owners has a 400hp Busa. The other owner has a wicked Srad. Mick is a walking GSXR dictionary. Give him a call if you need help/parts/advice with a project. Mick loves to talk so be ready


The purpose of todays pulls where to get a baseline on my 91 1100. As some of you know from my complaining that my bike is down on power. We confirmed that today with a peak of 104hp
I am VERY lean. We used the dynojet Wideband AF as you can see in my graph. I wont be taking the bike over 6500 RPM until this is resolved. The good news is that my motor is in perfect shape and there was NO smoke out the pipe during the pulls. From looking at the curve I expect to put down 120-130hp once jetted. I am running stock CA carbs with stock airbox in case you where wondering. I was told that the motor was gone through and there was port work done on the head. I cant confirm this yet and at this point I will guess its a stock motor.

Here is my delema: I have stock 36 CV's that came on the Calfornia bikes. Thanks to fastcat we learned that the difference in the Cali carbs is the needles. I could put a Stage 3 jetkit and filters on these carbs and have ECS jet the bike out with the dyno. The jet kit and filters are $250-$300??? Plus the cost of the tune ($80).

OR... I happen to have a brand new set of open filters for the 38 Mikuni Smoothbore carbs. I could try to locate a used set somewhere and go that route..

Or, I could just get a new set of Smoothbore carbs for about $600.

Or??????

Whats my best bet guys? 36's? 38's? CV's? Smoothbores?

I use the bike for fun and will be riding it to work once in a while (60miles on the highway) and I will be making some passes at the strip for fun. If I had the larger carbs now I would be thankful if I ever throw a 1340kit/750head on the bike. But, Right now I dont plan to do that just yet...

Thanks for the advice!

CT









[ 05-04-2002, 04:06 PM: Message edited by: azgsxr11 ]
 

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If I had it to do over again, I'd go with the jet kit and leave the airbox in place. You can get the Factory Pro kit for about $100 and if you *must* have the filters too, take a look at the BMC stuff... very similar to K&N but at $90 for the pair, a lot easier on the checkbook. There is a set of four individual V&H filters on ebay right now that look like they will go for cheap, but I'm not sure that they will fit the backs of the 36mm carbs...

From what I'm told, *if* you replace the carbs, 41mm Keihin FCR's are the way to go... but those are *tres* pricey. *IF* I get my act together over the winter, I wanna bump the compression up, go to +1mm pistons and mount 41mm FCR's on mine... the local tuner/dyno-dude swears to me that he can get me 150HP at the rear wheel if I do this.

What doesn't make sense to me is the numbers... with the Hindle pipe, OEM internals, stock airbox and filter, and no re-jetting or ignition advance, my `89 pulled 127HP. I only picked up 4HP and 4 ft-lbs with the jetkit and filters alone. Are those numbers with the CA black box, or did you get the 49-state model in there? I *know* that some difference is to be expected from dyno to dyno, but we're talking about 20% here... how are your chain and wheel bearings doing?

-edit
LOL I just noticed your four-legged consultant there! I have two; they aren't good at turning wrenches, but they are pretty good at undermining my housecleaning efforts.

[ 05-04-2002, 05:28 PM: Message edited by: FastCat ]
 

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Discussion Starter #4
The FCR's are just to much money. The smoothbores are in the ballpark as they are $600 new and $350 used. A jetkit and filters would run me at least $250-$300. I figured I could step up the extra cash for the smoothbores "IF" people on this forum tell me that its worth it.

Keeping that air box in place is not an option. Nobody here wants to deal with it. Stage3 makes life so easy.

My bike is down on power as I am VERY lean. Look at the AF ratio past 7000 rpm. I have no fuel. If I had fuel and ran in the 13 range I would likely make 120-130hp as the bike sits right now. I do not have the 49 state CDI box installed yet as it has not shown up in the mail.

It sure is interesting that your bike made so much power with stock jets and box. Maybe my engine did get the headwork and pistons the owner told me it had. All I know is that I need a TON more fuel that the carbs are giving me at this point.

hehehe. Yeah.. Thats azzie in the picture. Always in the way... She appears in most of my photo's.

Thanks

CT

Originally posted by FastCat:
If I had it to do over again, I'd go with the jet kit and leave the airbox in place. You can get the Factory Pro kit for about $100 and if you *must* have the filters too, take a look at the BMC stuff... very similar to K&N but at $90 for the pair, a lot easier on the checkbook. There is a set of four individual V&H filters on ebay right now that look like they will go for cheap, but I'm not sure that they will fit the backs of the 36mm carbs...

From what I'm told, *if* you replace the carbs, 41mm Keihin FCR's are the way to go... but those are *tres* pricey. *IF* I get my act together over the winter, I wanna bump the compression up, go to +1mm pistons and mount 41mm FCR's on mine... the local tuner/dyno-dude swears to me that he can get me 150HP at the rear wheel if I do this.

What doesn't make sense to me is the numbers... with the Hindle pipe, OEM internals, stock airbox and filter, and no re-jetting or ignition advance, my `89 pulled 127HP. I only picked up 4HP and 4 ft-lbs with the jetkit and filters alone. Are those numbers with the CA black box, or did you get the 49-state model in there? I *know* that some difference is to be expected from dyno to dyno, but we're talking about 20% here... how are your chain and wheel bearings doing?

-edit
LOL I just noticed your four-legged consultant there! I have two; they aren't good at turning wrenches, but they are pretty good at undermining my housecleaning efforts.
<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">

[ 05-04-2002, 05:49 PM: Message edited by: azgsxr11 ]
 

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Yeah, sounds about right if you have the shit CA carbs with aftermarket pipes and headwork. With that kind of lean situation, the energy is being passed to the cooling system, not the back wheel.

My two bits worth - go with the stage 3. If its primarily on the street, you'll have to feed the throttle in more gently off the line with flatslides no matter what you do. Now racing - hey NO arguments.Given that you have dyno tuners, you are in the best of all worlds, but CV is just sooooooo fucking liveable. Let them tune it up for you and enjoy that clean machine!!!!!
 

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I don't have an 1100 but I have recently switched to flatslides and they seem to be very streetable, and a little more fun. Though I do recommend a push/pull throttle with them. I've also noticed that "APE" motorcycle parts has the RS's for about $600 also(about $200 cheaper than brick/mortar). Ebay is the place to get a deal on them (250-450). (I just remembered that a few weeks ago a guy from the water pumpers forum was selling a set of Kehein 37's for 500.)If you get the flatslides I think they'll come with adjustable needles so you won't need a jet kit, just the jets. That should save you $100+ , and you've already got the filters, saving another $100. Won't your open filters fit on your carbs that you have now?
 

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The Keihin's are definitely the way to go.But they ARE expensive(u get what u pay 4)Mikunis(RS flatslides) are great also.If your bike is stock(internally)you don't need to go bigger than the 38's,and I would prolly' use the 36's.If you plan on doing major mods down the road,then get the 40's,as you can jet them to run great on a stock engine and you'll wish you bought them if you put together that 1340. CV's are also great but if you have to buy a set of 38cv's you might as well just get the flatsides and be done with it.I had a set of 40's on a 1216 engine with stock cams that made 155rwhp and I NEVER had any hesitation or bogging like most people say you'll have with flatslides.I could W.O.T. from idle and have the wheel in the air by 2500rpm without any stumbles.I'm sure your dyno guys could jet them properly and you'll be surprised by the difference.Good luck.
 

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ive got a set of 40mm cv off of my 91 1100.mint shape...worked good on mine till i got my 41 fcr... that just another avenue to think about!!!!
 

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Get a set of mikuni 38rs's or 40 rs's they will definetly fill in your power band

36mm cv's

-Karl
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks for all the suggestions. I am a bit confused now... Could someone list all the useable carbs for my bike and do a short description about them and price? Is the RS the same as the smoothbore? I am just confused with all the types of carbs..

Thanks!

CT
 

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Okay, carbs for your bike:
Mikuni 36mm cv's stock piss on 'em
Mikuni 38mm cv's stock on 89-92 oil cooled 750's these would be better
Mikuni 40mm cv's stock on Canadian 1100's even better for more strret power
after market
Mikuni RS's are flat slide smmoth bore carbs, side pulls, require a push-pull throttle set up
the come in sizes 36mm, 38mm, and 40mm
prices new around 650, used between 250-400
good boos for the street, unless you are digging into the motor, you probably won't need the 40's
mow for the bigg bucks
Keihin F-CR's flat slide carbs on a roller bearing with a venturi
37mm, 39mm, 41mm
prices new 1100+ used is anybodies ball game I picked up a set with jetting for 400, but you have to hunt around
Keihins are supposedly more civalized than the Mikuni RS series due to the venturi and the slides poerating on the roller bearing,it has also been recomended to me to run Keihins on a puss-pull throttle.
The push pull throttle is exactly what it sounds like.
Hope this helped
-Karl
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Originally posted by KJ1:
Okay, carbs for your bike:
Mikuni 36mm cv's stock piss on 'em
Mikuni 38mm cv's stock on 89-92 oil cooled 750's these would be better
Mikuni 40mm cv's stock on Canadian 1100's even better for more strret power
after market
Mikuni RS's are flat slide smmoth bore carbs, side pulls, require a push-pull throttle set up
the come in sizes 36mm, 38mm, and 40mm
prices new around 650, used between 250-400
good boos for the street, unless you are digging into the motor, you probably won't need the 40's
mow for the bigg bucks
Keihin F-CR's flat slide carbs on a roller bearing with a venturi
37mm, 39mm, 41mm
prices new 1100+ used is anybodies ball game I picked up a set with jetting for 400, but you have to hunt around
Keihins are supposedly more civalized than the Mikuni RS series due to the venturi and the slides poerating on the roller bearing,it has also been recomended to me to run Keihins on a puss-pull throttle.
The push pull throttle is exactly what it sounds like.
Hope this helped
-Karl
<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">Thanks Karl... I have found several 38 Smoothbore Mikuni's for around $300. I think I will just go that route. Might as well... A stage 3 jet kit for my 36cv's is about the same price.

Thanks again guys.

CT
 
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