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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all, I've been trying to replace the chain and sprockets on my 86 1100. I've taken off the sprocket cover for the front sprocket and removed the little 10mm bolt, but the larger 1 1/4" nut will NOT back off. I've tried impact gun, brute force, etc. but it will not budge. I've got it soaked in WD-40 right now, even though it wasn't rusty at all and tomorrow I'll try a large snipe on a breaker bar. Anything else I should know before I try this tomorrow? Any help/comments are appreciated.
 

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i can't help you solve your problem, but just a piece of advice. do it with the chain on, and the back brake on... so that your transmission isn't taking the brunt of the inpact wrench/big ass snipe.

weas
 

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make sure the lock tabs are bent out if you have them & put in gear use back brake and it is torked to at least 85 lbs so good luck
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Turning it the right way... you guys kill me... Didn't see any locking tabs. Am using a block across the swingarm and through the rear wheel. Don't have the tranny in gear cuz I heard that's a quick way to wreck a tranny and if I can't even get a nut off, I don't think I want to try to change a tranny
. I had a thought though, that maybe I can heat that nut up, but will that change the tensile strength? Does strength even matter since the nuts only job is to keep the sprocket from sliding off? Will let you all know what happens.
 

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If the little flat side of the "lock" washer is bent down away from the nut and it still won't come off with an impact gun, try "cupping" the socket with your hand while impacting in counter clock-wise direction.
 

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Look hard for the tabs on that lock washer. You should have one on there but it can be hard to see if its dirty.
 

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Yeah, heat it up if you can. Just look out for plastics/burnables, and try not to heat up the shaft, then impact it off. If you've got the wheel blocked,(this may seem like a waste) maybe put an extension on the socket to the ratchet, then block that up. Put a "cheater bar" on the ratchet, and really lean/lay in to it. If all else fails, cut it off. Good Luck!
 

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I just went through this. I replaced the rear sprocket at the same time, and I found that blocking the wheel allowed the cush drive to make the whole thing kinda "spongy" and I couldn't get it off... so I blocked the sprocket against the swingarm with a prybar and used a 1/2" drive, 3' long breaker bar... I still had to get help and the thing went "bang" when it finally did break loose... I thought we had broken something but all was well... I still can't believe how much torque was on that nut. *IF* you use heat, be vewwy, vewwy careful not to ruin the seal on the transmission output shaft (right underneath the countersprocket) or you will be splitting your cases to replace a $2 seal.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Originally posted by FastCat:
... I still can't believe how much torque was on that nut. *IF* you use heat, be vewwy, vewwy careful not to ruin the seal on the transmission output shaft (right underneath the countersprocket) or you will be splitting your cases to replace a $2 seal. ...
<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">Ahhhh, so I'm not alone with this. Okay, thanks for the tip on the heat, I never thought of that
. I borrowed a friend's 3' breaker bar and heavy duty impact so I'll be trying again right now. I will keep you all posted. According to my manual there's only supposed to be between 60 and 70 ft lbs. of torque on this nut. HAH!
 

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count yourself lucky.....it's not so much the replacing it that sucks, it's blowing the seal and having oil all over your tire that sucks!
 

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Discussion Starter #15
The bastad finally went! I had to use all your tricks (well, almost). I finally heated the nut, rattled it with the impact for a good 30 seconds, then blocked up my extension on the 3' snipe and basically hung off it. BANG.
Nearly shite myself when it finally went, but off it came - I suspect there was blue loctite under that nut since there's a greyish crust all over the shaft threads. Now, however, I have another problem. A very small o-ring (broken I might add) magically appeared under my bike while I was changing the rear sprocket. It appears to have fallen from the area under the drive sprocket cover but I can't see where it would go.
Are there any o-rings under that drive sprocket cover?

Also - (sorry for all the questions) - should I loctite that nut back on? It seems kind of pointless since it self tightens as the sprocket turns and there's the little retainer bolt that holds it on...
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Originally posted by freakshoei:
O-ring from the chain perhaps? Did you remove the chain right about then?
<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">
The CHAIN! Of course, it's so simple! DOH! I will check that....
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Originally posted by WebWarlock:
</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">Originally posted by freakshoei:
O-ring from the chain perhaps? Did you remove the chain right about then?
<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">
The CHAIN! Of course, it's so simple! DOH! I will check that....
</font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">Ah hah! freakshoei, you get a big ol sloppy kiss from me (um, well, only if you're a hot babe that is... otherwise a heartfelt thanks)!!! The o-ring matches the chain o-rings to a T. I will now ignore the possibility that it came from somewhere else, bolt it all back together and pray that no interesting new leaks crop up.

Thanks to everyone for all their help with my whole bolt problem. Feel free to look for new cries for help from me elsewhere in this board.
You guys rock!
 
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