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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hey guys i found this company out over here they drill and slot rotors for cars i was thinkin about askin em if they would do the bikes rotors do u think it would be a good idea? what kind of advantages am i looking at with drilled n slotteD?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
my front rotors are slotted but not drilled my rear is drilled but not slotted lol i really need to make this bike stop quick now imma get new brake pads soon so i wanna take care of rotors while im at it
 

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I would figure if you don't buy them slotted/cross drilled, then you prolly wouldnt want to have it done. On a car the brakes/discs are a lot thicker and stronger, making them more able to sustain the "modification". I would hate to be the guinea pig and have them do the work on my brakes only to have the discs shatter on a hard brake with new pads. Just my $.02
 

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Don't think I'd do it: chances are you could pick up a drilled set on eBay for the same price or less. Either way, the difference in stopping power will be minimal. Really, the only thing drilling and slotting is for is heat reduction, and slotting your drilled rotors or vice-versa won't do anything but put you in danger.
 

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poolshark said:
Don't think I'd do it: chances are you could pick up a drilled set on eBay for the same price or less.
+1

M/C rotors have to be a minimum thickness for a reason. Slot the existing rotors and you'll compromise their strength and your ability to stop quickly and safely. Vented automotive rotors are nearly twice as thick on each side as our single faced rotors are. I wouldn't mess w/ yours, just buy a new set for the same price as you want to spend to have your existing ones altered.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
hmm well if drilling it wont help in stopping then eff it lol besides the fact that it looks good (maybe ill do it for looks after new pads) then eeff it i just wanna be able to stop quicker so i guess ill just get new pads for now i was looking at EBC pads is that what u guys recomend?
 

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Id get Carbon lorraine sbk pads if they have them there (best pads i ever tried) + a calliper rebuild kit, master cylinder rebuild kit, and some decent braided lines. If it doesnt stop after that I'd be tempted to say your suspension is way to soft or something else isnt right, like girly hands or somethin lol
 

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That's a monstrous reduction in braking surface.
 

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fireforeffect49 said:
That's a monstrous reduction in braking surface.

poolshark said:
It has the potential to look really cool, but I won't be running it on my bike, thanks. EBCHH for the pads.
It's a rear break. If you rely on your rear break that much you have other issues. If anything it makes the rear brake a little more controlable, I mean you barely touch the rear break even with the crappiest pads in the world and they will lock up. Especially if you are using the front break to it's maximum potential. Plus on a race bike it is 1/2 lb. less rotating mass. So in my opinion it looks cool and has function .Buying HH pads for the rear of your bike is a waste of money. Has anyone even ever had to replace a set of rear pads due to wear? It's not uncommon to see theses types of rotors on some very fast race bikes. I have been running these and a couple of other different patterns on my race bike and street bike for a couple of years now with zero problems.:cheers
 
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