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Discussion Starter #1
Was riding down a little straight neighborhood road tonight at about 30-35 mph (within speed limit) about to pass the intersection (that was very well lit) where a car that was waiting to cross (I had right-of-way of course). It appeared as though the driver was waiting for me to pass before crossing. I usually pay close attention to what people do because I treat all drivers on the road like idiots. And generally slow down even more if I cannot tell that they have seen me approaching. And, I could tell she saw me coming; she looked right at me!

Well, at nearly 10-15 ft away from the intersection, the bitch decides to start pulling out. The mistake on my part is that I could have swerved hard left and avoided her altogether. There was no oncoming traffic in the other lane so no worries.

She did stop after the "oh shit factor" but it was too late. I too braked hard (reflex) and went down / fell off while the bike went sliding ahead of me. Had she not stopped, I would have been ran over. I quickly got up and looked at her and she had this "im sorry expression" but crossed and drove off. I was too much shocked and pissed to think about getting a license and couldn't remember if I did.
Did file a police report. They said since I did not actually hit her vehicle or mine that there is nothing that can be done even if she was the cause of the accident. **Shrug**

The question: The bike is not damaged all that bad. I had frame sliders. The left frame slider is torn up and will need to be replaced. No problem. The left fairing only has a few visible scratches. The only actual damge is the gear shifter got knocked off and the left clutch / engine cover is scratched just enough that is leaks a little oil. No other visible damage.

I am sure this has happened to someone before so how much can I expect to pay for an engine / clutch cover and gear shifter? How difficult is it to replace and what should I be aware of when I do?

Before anyone says, I checked ebay for the clutch cover but nothing for my year or at least the search did not reveal it. No point in filing a claim because I cannot imagine it costing that much?

04 GSXR750 btw. If its not terribly expensive, I want to get a new cover. The bike has plenty of miles and didn't have a single scratch until now (never dropped or anything) so needless to say, am pissed.
 

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The magneto cover is about $80 for www.oneidasuzuki.com, the gear shifter is roughly $40 and a foot peg is about $30. I went down with my '04 750 and had to replace the samethings except for the magneto cover, mine is just scratched, not leaking oil so I will deal with it.

Im glad you are o.k., and happy your sliders held up for the most part. I just bought woodcraft sliders which rule BTW, the other ones I had were total crap and the cause of most of my damage. I suggest woodcraft's for your new sliders. Good luck!
 

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Was riding down a little straight neighborhood road tonight at about 30-35 mph (within speed limit) about to pass the intersection (that was very well lit) where a car that was waiting to cross (I had right-of-way of course). It appeared as though the driver was waiting for me to pass before crossing. I usually pay close attention to what people do because I treat all drivers on the road like idiots. And generally slow down even more if I cannot tell that they have seen me approaching. And, I could tell she saw me coming; she looked right at me!

Well, at nearly 10-15 ft away from the intersection, the bitch decides to start pulling out. The mistake on my part is that I could have swerved hard left and avoided her altogether. There was no oncoming traffic in the other lane so no worries.

She did stop after the "oh shit factor" but it was too late. I too braked hard (reflex) and went down / fell off while the bike went sliding ahead of me. Had she not stopped, I would have been ran over. I quickly got up and looked at her and she had this "im sorry expression" but crossed and drove off. I was too much shocked and pissed to think about getting a license and couldn't remember if I did.
Did file a police report. They said since I did not actually hit her vehicle or mine that there is nothing that can be done even if she was the cause of the accident. **Shrug**

The question: The bike is not damaged all that bad. I had frame sliders. The left frame slider is torn up and will need to be replaced. No problem. The left fairing only has a few visible scratches. The only actual damge is the gear shifter got knocked off and the left clutch / engine cover is scratched just enough that is leaks a little oil. No other visible damage.

I am sure this has happened to someone before so how much can I expect to pay for an engine / clutch cover and gear shifter? How difficult is it to replace and what should I be aware of when I do?

Before anyone says, I checked ebay for the clutch cover but nothing for my year or at least the search did not reveal it. No point in filing a claim because I cannot imagine it costing that much?

04 GSXR750 btw. If its not terribly expensive, I want to get a new cover. The bike has plenty of miles and didn't have a single scratch until now (never dropped or anything) so needless to say, am pissed.
All that stuff is easy to replace. I had to replace my generator cover (LHS), my clutch cover (RHS), and my shifter arm. When replacing the generator (magneto) cover, be careful that shit has strong magnets and will pinch your fingers between it and the engine (and it hurts). If you need a clutch cover (RHS), I have an OEM one in near mint with a minor scratch. As for the generator cover, get a Woodcraft with replacable skid pads. Later,
 

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i've recently gone down on my k5 as well and it is extremely difficult to find parts on ebay given our bikes are relatively new. Since you are replacing it, i would spend the extra cash to buy a more robust aftermarket product. it is not very difficult to fix, and i would believe it will end up cheaper than your decuctible either way. i second boganz opinion on the woodcraft rearsets. if your gonna fix it mind as well make it better! sorry to hear about the incident but at least you and your bike are ok.

ed
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the swift replies. Ironically, the foot peg is fine. The shift linkages are fine as well. I'll try to get some pictures posted for the curious. I think how the damage occured had something to do with the fact that it slide over an old rail road crossing; the surface was not uniform (flat).

Does anyone have a site to check out the woodcraft or is that from oneidasuzuki as well? By the way, I had LSL frame sliders. A little pricey but I really liked them and I might go with them again because I know they work unless someone has testimonials of others? Heh.
 

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Here is where I bought the sliders from... www.woodcraft-cfm.com

Also if you are looking for nice aftermarket covers check these out.... http://www.gsxrzone.com/enginecovers.html

Alittle bit pricey by really nice. It is amazing the foot peg is o.k., I just assumed it was damaged if you broke the gear shifter. You should be able to find all the OEM parts you need from Oneida, and they have been the cheapest I have found.
 

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not to hijack the thread, but did the LSL sliders require any cutting of the fairing, and does anyone have experience with the woodcraft? given the design of our fairing i'm led to believe we shouldn't, but just making sure with anyone who has experience with it
 

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Discussion Starter #10
The LSL sliders did not require any cutting. There is plenty of clearance. Now that I am in the market again, I might check out some of the others available. About hitting the bitch, yes, Its a small town. I am sure I will at least see the vehicle again. Then its open season ...
 

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Demento - Glad your ok...

I had a very similar accident, with very similar damage to my bike.


XracingsliX & Blitzu -Thanks for the sites and links

Very helpful in the replacement of my bike as well
 

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she should have stopped and see if you were okay. To drive off like that is irresponsible and lame
 

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Damn! That sucks. At least the sliders did their job and kept it relatively safe and only minimal damage.

About frame sliders....And you being in the market again....The Vortex frame sliders require no fairing modification and instead of having to replace the whole slider if you go down, you can take off just the "puck" as they call it and the new ones are fairly cheap. There's a thick metal piece that bolts into the bike, and then they colored "puck" bolts to that metal piece. I was kinda leary when I first saw them about the puck maybe coming off the metal receptor if it went down, but my qualms were somewhat settled when I saw the design and the size of the bolt used to attach the puck. It seems like a good idea since the pucks are a lot cheaper than a whole new slider.
 

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Get Woodcraft engine covers - you'll want to drain your oil and replace since you probably don't know how much you lost. While doing that you could go for replacement RHS stuff too - Woodcraft makes only the little idle gear cover so you have to go to NRC to get a stronger idle clutch cover. You can go all NRC covers also if you want - I had all NRC stuff on my old 750 but this time I wanted the nicer CNC look (also Woodcraft covers can come anodized black! - but the NRC's don't). Order from TrickTape (http://www.tricktape.com) - he's got very good pricing for Woodcraft covers, but NRC stuff I just order direct since I'm in Canada.

Your clutch lever can be replaced with stock, or you can trick your bike out and get some CRG levers. I've got some and they are SWEET. http://www.constructorsrg.com/

Frame sliders - I've tested Intuitive sliders and true to the rumors, they snap off in a crash. I've since switched to Graves sliders (http://www.gravesport.com/) and they do NOT snap off (they're shorter and more rugged so they hold up much better). Tested those too
I've heard good stuff about Vortex sliders, but I personally think they seem a bit too long and might be prone to bending stuff in a crash, so I'm sticking with the Graves ones.

Spool sliders are good too - Intuitive ones are fine for this, but I've noticed that the new 600/750's have a dumb "tab" that sticks out of the swingarm for spools - I have a feeling these could snap off if you went down hard there, but short of modifying the swingarm to be like the older '03's which had the mount point welded directly to the swingarm, there's not much you can do about that.

Foot pegs - get replacement ones from Woodcraft. They look pimp and don't break as easily as stock cast aluminum ones do (man those things break easy). I've got mine coming in (ordered from TrickTape) and can't wait to put them on my bike - you do NOT need to get the whole Woodcraft rearset kit - just the pedals! They fit on to stock rearsets


For the fairing - take it to a painter and they can fix it up for ya


As for replacing these things - read the tech manual on how to do most of it - the lever is relatively easy to replace - you just have to be aware of how to reset and re-adjust your clutch cable, and how the lever comes out. Peg is very easy - take the whole rearset off and undo the link. Then find some carpet and hold the rearset down with your feet and undo the big hex bolt on the back to take the peg off the rearset - it's held in with lots of blue locktite so give it a good yank. The hardest is probably the engine cover. Undo all the bolts and then you will see a few cast "tabs" on the cover - they're for leverage so you can put something (that won't scratch your engine) in there and pry the case cover off the engine. It'll be stuck kinda good plus you've got your huge magnet in there that'll REALLY hold that bitch in there. Just be careful and pull it straight out - use your muscle. There's 2 dowels in the case there which you need to keep. If they're stuck, do NOT use pliers. Get a torch (micro butane torches = handy here) and heat up the casing around the dowel - the dowel is steel and takes longer to heat up than the aluminum case, thus the case expands and the dowel can be taken out by hand (but it's hot!) without scratches. Clean the engine side off with a razor blade to clean the surface of old gasket (this takes a while - be patient and careful not to scratch anything). Put high temp siicone around where the 2 halves of engine are joined - or just go nuts and put a bit all around for a good seal. Mount the stator stuff in to your new cover (7ft/pl for bolts - hand tight plus a little umpf is all you need for 7ft/lb), put the gasket over the silicone (while it's fresh) and then the cover on with dowels and such. Hand tighten the bolts (make sure to keep the order so you don't worry about what bolt goes where - also watch for 2 washers that you need on 2 of the bolts) and give a *little* tightening just so you can see the silicone starting to ooze out and then leave it like that. Let it sit for 1-2hrs or as per instructions on silicone, then tighten to 7ft/lb. Use a star configuration tightening pattern for even tightening.

Voila, you're done & happy that working on your bike taught you so much. Kinda makes crashing almost worth it to learn so much
 

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A friend of mine laid his bike down a week ago today... his aluminum frame sliders worked fine.. but his woodcraft cover was scraped all to hell... and not on the replacable plate due to the angle the frame slider made it hit.... so in other words... the two are nice mods but don't compliment each other.
Just FYI
 

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I kind of wondered that myself - the angle needs to be pretty flat for those skid plates to kick in. However, for the price that I got the cover and the protection it gives regardless of skid plate or not (it's the strength and thickness that really matter), it's still worth the buy.

Having stock covers which are paper thin and can crack so easily isn't all that great - it means you can't ride off after a crash usually which ain't that good (gotta get a buddy to haul you off). Having Woodcraft or NRC covers & you can ride away since it takes a heck of a lot to put a crack in one of those I'd imagine.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Thanks for all the input folks! It's much appreciated!

Nutbar:

Footpegs didn't get bent. Just a little scrapped on the base. Even the ends of the hand grip doesn't have so much as a scratch! I don't ask me how it worked out this way!

04gix:

I would have only had to replace the pads themself had the alluminum mounting braket spun loose and broke. I can still use it, but the stop that prevents it from moving (rotating) about the motormount is busted so might not be wise. I looked at the vortex sliders butI didn't like them so much. I'm not an engineer but I am pretty good at seeing what works. I would rather have something that is a little more "solid". If I looked on the photographs, the vortex sliders have a hollow center? Seems like this could catch on a rigid surface rather than slide smoothly. I initially chose the LSL because they had more "metal" bulk to get through. I am seriously considering the woodcraft or yoyodyne because to me at least, it seems they would handle a crash better. Hope I am not "over analyizing" but does anyone have any opinions on allumium versus plastic? If I read correctly on woodcraft's site, one has the option of either. Is allumium just for "looks" or does it actually handle better?

I did go with the OEM strator cover. I figure if I did crash again that I would still replace it. I'm sure it handles better but who would want to keep a jacked up cover with scratches? For the cost of the woodcraft, I could buy two OEM if I wanted. Heh. To think, I was about to start "modding" this bike out. That will have to wait. Though I'll start another thread on that topic!

Again to everyone else, thanks for the feedback. Lots of knowledgable people here.
 

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Aluminum sliders aren't any good in a crash. The metal catches on the pavement and can toss your bike. The plastic (preferrably delrin plastic) is very slippery (plastic is an oil based product after all) and doesn't catch. Even if they've got a hollow center it won't catch (gone down a few times myself and never had one catch - did have an Intuitive one snap off though, but that's not because it was hollow).

In sliders, the 3 big things to look for are:

1) length. shorter is better! longer is more prone to snapping - trust me!
2) plastic over metals. delrin being the best for the "puck"
3) sturdy metal base. preferrably not something that adds to the overall length too much, but something that will mount well and hold up to a crash. unfortunatly the only real way to find this out is to test them


I can say do not use Intuitive frame sliders - base isn't strong enough (will bend) and the slider is too long (can snap). After having a bad experience with those, I went to Graves & unfortunately tested those too. They held up to a 100km/hr crash and didn't budge, bend or anything at all. They wore down and saved LOTS of damage (though that was the least of my worries - the rest of the bike was still kinda toast
)

Oh and as for the aftermarket engine cases - the reason you get them is so you can ride away after crashing hopefully. If you're on the street and want to avoid the coppies writing you up for a crash (which then hits your record, and affects your insurance), being able to pick it up and ride home after a down is a good plus. Not to mention it avoids cracking the case cover better which, if you go down bad, can be the difference to having a reusable engine, or having to scrap the engine 'cause you got rocks or something in there.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I called the place where I purchased the LSL sliders (KS motorsports) and they told me that everything comes in pairs but they can order me replacement parts only. Only thing is they will take a little longer than ordering a new set, which is fine by me. The cost comes out not much different than ordering a fresh set of yoyodyne or woodcraft. I figured why not stay with what I have since I already have half heh. Besides, I do like the rigid construction.
 
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