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Is the lower triple clamp an aftermarket part? The pics aren't great but it seems to be of a higher quality than the rest of the bike.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
I've been looking at the rear suspension, I've tightened everything up & noticed that it appears to be 'topping out' by this I mean that when I push down on the subframe it seems OK but when it returns it seems to reach to end of its travel. When I lift the the rear by the subframe it raises the rear wheel straight away. Is this normal? I'm not at the stage of dialling anything in yet just that I'd rather alter things now if need be, like a different shock. I don't know how much research was done when this shock was fitted but at least it gives something to work from, it's from a 93 750. thanks
 

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sag, set the static then rider sag, maybe spring for your weight if its not already? if the static sag wont allow the rider sag to be set correctly or vice versa prolly not sprung for your weight? may drop a little bit but you want it to ride right
 

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do you know how to set static sag and rider sag? you'll need two people or one of those doohickeys they got that has a string line to a calculator.. yup, seen em..

static sag... with bike upright in chalk, lift rear end till suspension is sagged out or topped out, to where it wants to lift the tire, measure from a level surface to a fixed point on the bike, foot peg whatever, or a mark somewhere on the tail, then let the bike drop to where it settles, measure that at same points.. subtract...

then repeat with the rider on the bike, this will tell if the bike is spring right for your weight, you can adjust the spring height it some to get the numbers right for the static sag to get within the spec numbers in the manual, 1.25-1.50 or so? check this.. after you set static sag, the riders sag needs to be within spec as well, repeat steps with rider on bike.. OR the springs are not the right weight for the rider.. lotta guys fiddle if its close or if their weight is on the border of spring rates, but if its a half inch off or more it is what it is, not sprung proper for your weight and it will never be as good as it can be..



 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
Took measurement with wheel off the ground then back on the ground the difference was 14mm. Then sat on the bike & took another measurement & the difference was 16mm
 

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14mm is like a half inch, you want around triple that, your spring is too tight, uncrank it till you get the 1.5" or 45mm static sag distance, good thing is looks like it sprung well for your weight, all about adjusting.. do you have a shock wrench, best to get one or use wood and hammer so you don't tear up the adjusters, some are urged to use a screwdriver and it just tears em up.. clockwise is down/tighter, counter is up/looser.. you need looser, knock the top line counter to unlock, spin it up a half inch 20mm or so, then work the bottom one up till they meet, check number, use a rag or something if you don't have a neoprene socket for the fork preload nut, that one is very visible all the time so don't marr it up but front works same way to loosen/tighten, up/down..

what's the front doing, same process, actually you kinda go back and forth dialing them in so they both do what you want, one setting will affect the other as you are effectively transferring weight, forward and back.. kinda like adjusting throttle bodies or carb racks, keep dialing them in till both banks are nutted.. work the back, work the front, check the back, readjust, back to front readjust till they are both right where you like them, synergistic...

once you are confident you have this dialed in fairly well, move onto the preload/rebound videos.. get those close, then it's all about feeling what's happening and reading tires so forth, fine tune, several here are actively racing so they know all the modern equipment and compounds and they might lend a hand if you encounter questions..

also you don't need to lift wheel off the ground just top it out.. be sure to give a few pushes and let it settle between each reading as well, I like to take my first static compressed or sagged reading, then sit on the bike, push the seat up and down a few times then take another reading and make sure they match, if they dont it may be time to clean/rebuild.. a good suspension should settle or rest at the same spot every time.. so much reference on suspension that prolly make more sense than I can..
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
I've been busy sorting out engine mounts, I initially ran a tube across the front just above the headers & took brackets off that to the side front engine mounts but it would've been very difficult to remove the engine. I removed that & went with drilling and tapping some round bar & drilled out the frame then weld these in & fit a triangle type bracket (like the slabbys use) Next the side mount needed cutting off & moving forward but I wasn't able to use it so I made a collar & notched the frame
Wood Grass Gas Rectangle Garden tool

Automotive tire Motor vehicle Alloy wheel Wood Automotive exterior

Wood Toy Stuffed toy Art Plush

Automotive tire Motor vehicle Wood Bicycle part Automotive exterior

Wheel Tire Automotive tire Motor vehicle Wood

Automotive tire Automotive lighting Motor vehicle Tire Tread

Tire Automotive lighting Automotive tire Vehicle Wheel

Automotive tire Wood Rim Automotive wheel system Bicycle part
 
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