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Discussion Starter #1
Working on my 2007 GSXR 1000, bought it crashed but running. Replaced the subframe, clip ons, rearsets.

Changed the oil, filter, replaced the tank as the previous one was dented badly (kept old fuel pump), removed the PCIII. Now bike will crank but will no longer start.

Checked fuses, tip over sensor, fuel pump is priming and there is fuel in the tank.

Noticed a connector that is not connected to anything (4th pic), orange/white and brown wires going in. What is this connector for?
 

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Married his Fleshlight... And Also touches people
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I was watching a video on YouTube I think it was from Dave moss...but they say after a crash the frame and things can flex and not return all the way. To rectify this you can loosen the engine mounts and the front and let everything settle.

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thanks for the heads up bentover, makes sense i'll give this a shot. hows that fleshlight? havent had the pleasure.

samantha, no CHEC or FI. took a video (1.5mb) not sure how to post.
 

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Given that you hear the pump prime, the ECU must be powered, so that either leaves fueling problems, or timing problems. Do you hear any signs of life, such as sputtering, backfiring, etc? Do you smell unburnt fuel when cranking? Did the bike sit much before you bought it? Did it take any damage to the engine casings during the crash? Do you see any flashing "FI" indications after you've cranked for a few seconds?

(Although come to think of it, since the bike worked before - relatively well, I assume - it must have been something you did. Any chance the new tank kinks the fuel line or something? )
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for your reply dpapavas, I appreciate it.

No backfiring or sputtering. I do not smell unburnt fuel, and sprayed some wd40 in each cylinder before cranking again with no change in result.

I'm sure it sat some, and in my possession it sat for about a year. No damage to casings, no flashing FI (although the bike did have this issue in the past but either resolved or it went away on its own).

Redid the connections to the tank, and confirmed no kink in the fuel line.

Perhaps I did something when removing the PCIII? Any other tests I can perform to isolate root cause?
 

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That's the connector for the purge control solenoid, which only has meaning on an E33 (Calif.) model.

Getting the PCIII, or any other add-ons, off the bike is a good idea at this stage.

If you didn't. check all the fuses with an ohmmeter. They can fail but look OK.

With things turned on, check the voltage at the O/W lead at the SDS connector and the R lead at the nearby Suzuki Access Port. They should be 12 V and 5 V respectively. Yours are probably OK but I'm starting at the basics. If they're OK put it into dealer mode. Search here if you don't know what I'm talking about. You're likely to see something other than C00 on the display. Cranking but not starting and no evidence of fuel being injected could be the tip-over sensor, C23, or the camshaft position sensor, C11. As you've checked the tip-over, this suggests the CMPS. But the ECM will know. Note that, the actual sensors could be OK but the associated leads could be pinched. Look around but they can be hard to detect.

Report back.

P.S. While we're at it, is the clutch switch OK and not bypassed?
 

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Fuel air spark... if your smelling fuel I'd jump to spark. Is spark present?

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This would be my first thing to check. If it's turning over but not starting, you aren't sparking the fuel. Check each plug for spark. Make sure gap is set correctly if you replace them. If you decide to replace them, go with the OEM plug.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I noticed the fuel pump wasn't priming for as long and then at all, so I replaced the actual pump inside the assembly and she ran great for a day. The next day, the throttle became unresponsive and engine would bog and cut out. WOT would make it worse, but if throttle turned 1/4 RPM would climb slowly and max out at 3500 or 6000 rpm. Very jerky and running rough. To get her to go I would keep at 1/4 turn and let the RPM climb to max of ~2800 RPM then shift and do the same thing up to sixth with a top speed of 40-45MPH.

While cold starting, the starter must be held for 20 plus seconds to get the engine running. Even then it would cut out if I gave it any throttle. Tried adding 1/4 can of sea foam and ran a little better but then back to same symptoms.

Adjusted the TPS in dealer mode, line was at the bottom. Got it to top of the middle if that makes any sense. Was better for half a ride then started having the same problems. Now it is barely starting and cannot get it to rev past 1200 RPM, running rough, weak idle.
 

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Owner's manual page 2-19:
CAUTION
To prevent electrical system damage, do not operate the starter motor more than 5 seconds at a time.

There's a similar warning in the service manual stating that the starter solenoid may overheat and be damaged.

Check if the set valve is opening. You can watch it function when power if first turned on. Do the fuel pump flow rate test as it sounds like your filter might be clogged (again).
 

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Figured I should clean the injectors and replace the spark plugs. Picked up some laser iridium NGK's. The four phillips head screws holding in the fuel rail seemed to strip easily. I learned that you must use a Japanese Industrial Standard (JIS) screwdriver to back these 4 out. JIS heads are usually identifiable by a single dot or an "X" to one side of the cross slot. Waiting on the screwdriver and replacement screws in the mail.
 

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I have a 08 gsxr 1000 Mine starts off a roll-off but sometimes I can start it in neutral but most of the time it's off a roll off but I think it's my tip over sensor. How can I bypass it and solve this little problem
 

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It's probably not the tipover switch. It's probably the kickstand switch or maybe the interlock/turn signal relay. Unplug the kickstand switch and put a jumper in it's place. But don't leave it that way. You may need a new switch or a kickstand spring or grease on the kickstand pivot.

It could also be dirty contacts in the START switch. It can be disassembled and the contacts cleaned.
 

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Working on my 2007 GSXR 1000, bought it crashed but running. Replaced the subframe, clip ons, rearsets.

Changed the oil, filter, replaced the tank as the previous one was dented badly (kept old fuel pump), removed the PCIII. Now bike will crank but will no longer start.

Checked fuses, tip over sensor, fuel pump is priming and there is fuel in the tank.

Noticed a connector that is not connected to anything (4th pic), orange/white and brown wires going in. What is this connector for?
I was wondering if you ever figured it out. I was trying to ask you the other day . After replacing the battery, kill switch, start switch, half the crewed up wiring harness, kickstand turn signal relay, lights,ignition, fuses, Messi with the TPS, rectifier, Dash, bypassing sensors, I was ready to take the f** thing out and shoot it and then run over it with my dually. And I thought of something I wanted to choke myself. I'd had built a cage for it with sliders that attach in the middle but I had to pull the oil filter off at one of the bars in. I was doing all that welding and stuff so long ago that I had forgot all about the oil which is usually the first thing I checked on anything before starting it. I dump 2 quarts in it yesterday still no spark but I think it takes three. Fingers crossed that there's a sensor on there for low oil that shuts off the spark. Does anyone have any idea if this is true I sure hope so
Given that you hear the pump prime, the ECU must be powered, so that either leaves fueling problems, or timing problems. Do you hear any signs of life, such as sputtering, backfiring, etc? Do you smell unburnt fuel when cranking? Did the bike sit much before you bought it? Did it take any damage to the engine casings during the crash? Do you see any flashing "FI" indications after you've cranked for a few seconds?

(Although come to think of it, since the bike worked before - relatively well, I assume - it must have been something you did. Any chance the new tank kinks the fuel line or something? )
I was looking through these comments trying to figure out my bike and I noticed he said something about the F1 light. Fi f1 whatever... I thought I had figured out that that was fuel injection. Is that true or no? My bike did some weird stuff out of the blue and hasn't started since
 

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It's FI and probably means Fuel Injection or possibly Fault Indication. It takes 2.6 to 3.2 quarts depending on how completely it was drained. There is no oil level sensor beyond the sight glass. There is a low pressure sensor that will illuminate the red LED and associated icon on the display. But the bike will run fine with low pressure, at least until it blows up.
 
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