[Meeps]

Ok, maybe I'm just blind and not seeing a topic fully around the Coolant system hoses for a K7 600/750.

Mine is the K7 600... I'm looking to start replacing coolant lines on the old girl just to make sure she's got fresh lines (as well as thermostat). I've searched the forum using the search option and came across a few posts, but nothing fitting my question(s).

1. Could I just get the hoses from an auto parts store if I take them in?
2. Any one know the O/D and I/D of the hoses? ( I know there are like 5 hoses or so.. Not counting the res overflow)
3. Any kits that you're aware of that won't break the bank? (seen some here and there over 200$ for silicon, just looking for basic OEM or aftermarket but nothing needed for track)

Thanks in advance.

 

[TheGeek]

I had sticker shock too.... Most of them are formed. The smaller ones that go to the oil cooler and such can be bought at the parts store, but it's better to just use all OEM. I did my k5 about 6 years ago (about time again). I get all my OEM parts from MR Cycles.

https://www.mrcycles.com/oemparts/a/suz/508c6b09f8700220a8311202/radiator-hose
Parts 1, 2, 3, 8, and 14


https://www.mrcycles.com/oemparts/a/suz/508c6b05f8700220a83111fe/oil-cooler
Parts 4 & 5.

 

[Meeps]

I had sticker shock too.... Most of them are formed. The smaller ones that go to the oil cooler and such can be bought at the parts store, but it's better to just use all OEM. I did my k5 about 6 years ago (about time again). I get all my OEM parts from MR Cycles.

https://www.mrcycles.com/oemparts/a/suz/508c6b09f8700220a8311202/radiator-hose
Parts 1, 2, 3, 8, and 14


https://www.mrcycles.com/oemparts/a/suz/508c6b05f8700220a83111fe/oil-cooler
Parts 4 & 5.

Thanks for those links... Prices through them seem to be much better than the other prices I've been seeing. :cheers

 

[TheGeek]

That's why I like MR Cycles! Their OEM prices are some of the best. Partzilla is good too.

 

[Revster]

Getting my L1 ready for track days and already put Spieglers and sintered pads on the binders. I believe they recommend you replace your hoses pretty much about the same time as the brake lines (4 years?) so they are probably over due.

Would it be recommended to go with the Silicone Hose Kit for track days or are they over kill for a Noob Track Dude? Recommendations on brand?

 

[Meeps]

Getting my L1 ready for track days and already put Spieglers and sintered pads on the binders. I believe they recommend you replace your hoses pretty much about the same time as the brake lines (4 years?) so they are probably over due.

Would it be recommended to go with the Silicone Hose Kit for track days or are they over kill for a Noob Track Dude? Recommendations on brand?

Good questions... I don't ride track, I may in the future myself, but that'll be with a bike that I don't use for the street. But would be good information to have.

 

[Just_Nick]

Getting my L1 ready for track days and already put Spieglers and sintered pads on the binders. I believe they recommend you replace your hoses pretty much about the same time as the brake lines (4 years?) so they are probably over due.

Would it be recommended to go with the Silicone Hose Kit for track days or are they over kill for a Noob Track Dude? Recommendations on brand?

If you like the looks, buy the silicone. Otherwise, there's not going to be a difference that you'll notice.

 

[Revster]

That's why I like MR Cycles! Their OEM prices are some of the best. Partzilla is good too.

Partzilla is what I normally use

RevZilla is starting to offer Suzuki OEM parts and offer great support (email, phone and live chat).

Local dealerships sometimes can offer decent prices if you factor in the shipping that you don't normally pay. If the parts guy is knowledgeable they can recommend sometimes better/cheaper brands like "All Balls" (bearings) or "K&L" (seals).

 

[TheGeek]

I think the only benefit of the silicone hoses is that they're supposed to last twice as long. But, quality comes into question with the number of different manufacturers out there.

 

[BillV]

The coolant doesn't get very hot so there isn't much thermal or pressure stress on the hoses. Unless you've somehow abused them, I doubt that new hoses are needed. All I see in the service manual is to periodically inspect them. I still have the original hoses on a '69 Corvette, which admittedly doesn't get driven much, and they're still fine.

As the Geek says, the larger hoses (even the crankcase breather hose) are formed. You're not going to find them at Pep Boys, etc.

 

[TheGeek]

It's not the outside of the hoses that's the problem. It's the insides that start to rot.

 

[Revster]

It's not the outside of the hoses that's the problem. It's the insides that start to rot.

That's a good point but not sure how one is able to check for that w/o having the take the hose apart.

I pretty much do the squeeze test to check for cracks and once it gets to the recommended time, my lizard brain tells me to do that as I picture a puddle of antifreeze on the side of the road stranding me. Last time a flat tire left me stranded cost me about $300 to get towed back - even with insurance. Carry a flat repair kit now.

Pretty much replace my antifreeze every 2 years just for peace of mind even though my tech tells me it is not needed.

 

[TheGeek]

When you look at a new hose, the OD of the hose and the clamp are almost flush. All things remaining equal, you'll see hoses swell up and be 3-4mm larger than the clamp. When they get fat, they get replaced. That's my rule of thumb.

 

[Meeps]

When you look at a new hose, the OD of the hose and the clamp are almost flush. All things remaining equal, you'll see hoses swell up and be 3-4mm larger than the clamp. When they get fat, they get replaced. That's my rule of thumb.

That’s the same rule I follow. However having bought this bike used, and the hoses aren’t exactly swollen to that point yet... I just feel better safe than sorry.

 

[Revster]

When you look at a new hose, the OD of the hose and the clamp are almost flush. All things remaining equal, you'll see hoses swell up and be 3-4mm larger than the clamp. When they get fat, they get replaced. That's my rule of thumb.

Damn, learn something new everyday. Will check for this and the dry rot. Have not taken any measurements but it looks pretty "swollen" when the pressure builds. Probably time...past prime time. Thanks.

 

[TheGeek]

I'd be right there with you. Used vehicles, unless you have good records, assume nothing has been done.