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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
What coolant ratio would people advise for a 750 SRAD that is only used in the city.. So low rpm, low speed, high temps. It hits 220F (105c) now and then.

I assume the ratio would be different than the 50%-50% that is advised in the Owner's Manual.

I used to have another identical bike that had a neon green liquid in the coolant tank and that would never exceed 195F (90c) even in the summer.

I want that cooling performance but I never found out what was in the tank.

If someone can recommend a brand that would help as well.


GSXR 750 1999
12,000 km / 7500 miles
Shell Helix Fully Synthetic motor oil
 

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There are threads you can look up with the information you're looking for. Peak Global, Engine Ice, and Water Wetter have all been recommended. There's no magic product or mixture, it's just coolant. I'd be more concerned about regular maintenance.
 

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50/50 is the optimum ratio that will provide you with the protection that you need, most are sold pre-mixed these days.
If you buy pure anti-freeze, use distilled/ionized water. The only concerns will be to confirm that it is aluminum safe, silicate & phosphate free.
Aside from that, get the color/flavor/packaging that you like the most.

Are you just topping up, or flushing the system?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
50/50 is the optimum ratio that will provide you with the protection that you need, most are sold pre-mixed these days.
If you buy pure anti-freeze, use distilled/ionized water. The only concerns will be to confirm that it is aluminum safe, silicate & phosphate free.
Aside from that, get the color/flavor/packaging that you like the most.

Are you just topping up, or flushing the system?
Flushing for the first time.

I'm getting rid of this old liquid, flushing with vinegar&water, letting it run to temp on v&w and then rinsing and filling with a premium premixed coolant.

I ride in the city alot and hate it when the bike gets to 220F and the fan kicks in. We aren't even in the heart of summer yet.
 

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I used to have another identical bike that had a neon green liquid in the coolant tank ...
Neon green prolly was just standard cheap automotive coolant.


...and that would never exceed 195F (90c) even in the summer.

I want that cooling performance but I never found out what was in the tank.
Since the sensor is on the radiator and the fan + wind speed is what cools the radiator, you could add another cooling fan if you really wanted or tinker with other mods such as pin holes on the thermostat or different temp ranged thermostats, I'd guess pump mods exist if one really needed also. If the bike is cooking, would indicate somethings wrong more than the coolant type, would start with the fan, then when flushing confirm the sensor,pump and thermostat were all operating properly. If those check out, next up would be air/fuel mixture stuff if it runs lean it'll run hot. Beyond that, it's a whole other topic...


If someone can recommend a brand that would help as well.
I never had any problems with Engine Ice, and the local shops had it on hand for fairly cheap often.
 

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See this. I use G-05, dyed green to make it easier to see in the reservoir, but it's become difficult to find the undiluted stuff.

50/50 is what you want. It boils around 225 °F. Suzuki radiator caps are 1.1 kgf/cm² (15 psi). They won't start venting until around 268 °F. You should be shutting the engine off well before that.

Things like Engine Ice will work but you may not be able to find it if you need to top up while you're away from home.
 

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Any of these things will work but please make sure that if you use engine ice or water wetter or something like that you need to make sure the bike is kept warm over the winter and kept from freezing.
 

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Also note that there's more to coolant than the basic cooling characteristics. In terms of thermal conductivity and heat capacity, straight water is probably hard to beat, but other factors are invovled. For example, water is a good oxidizer, so it tends to rust things and it has a boiling point that's lower than what the cooling system is designed to work at. So besides the anti-freezing action of antifreeze you also need it to raise the coolant's boiling point and you probably also need corrosion inhibiters. These additives will make the coolant perform worse in terms of cooling, but they will also help keep it in place, instead of boiling it out the overflow hose, or leaking it through corroded joints and caps.

The engine was designed to reach 105°C, so it's not unreasonable to assume that it's fine if it reaches such temperatures. On the other hand, it wasn't designed to work with any old coolant mixture, so assuming that one particular choice, which seems to work fine, is indeed working fine, is not as straightforward.
 

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When I had some cooling problems on 750k6 I used Prestone the yellow one which 50/50 is up to 129 C and 70/30 up to 136 C but the problem with overheting bike turned out to be the clogged radiator - there was no flow through it so it might be worthwhile checking yours if You have real problem but mine could really boil and overflow not just get hot with the fan kicking in... finally after I had changed the radiator there was no problem no matter what coolant I used...
 

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"if you use engine ice or water wetter or something like that you need to make sure the bike is kept warm over the winter and kept from freezing"

AFAIK Engine Ice is propylene glycol/water and there's no problem with freezing. Water Wetter is track only and dangerous with respect to freezing. There's an old post here where it froze up while being trailered home. The pump drive shaft broke when he tried to start it.
 

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if you live in the southwest or where its routinely 100+ install a manual fan switch, never let it hit that 240 before it cools, dunno why they do it that way but int hat heat sitting still sure the fan kicks on at 220 or so but by the time its cooled the bike can reach 260, I know my SRAD's and Busa does, so that means the heat rolling up off the engine is brutal, specially at a stop.. man,, the 750 with the manual switch is a dream I just turn it on at stops and it never even gets to 220..

best to not let any engine heat up cool off all the time, its constantly compressing the head gasket and other gaskets, its why when you have an engine that does overheat and spew over whatever cracked gasket or whatever they always develop leaks cuz those gasket get squashed so thin it cannot recover, sometime tightening works, others nope, specially head, gasket, best to not let get hot all the time then cool like that up and down up and down, IMO
 

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^There are stand alone programmable fan controllers that can be set to come on at a lower temperature. Dano's Performance used to sell them but now reflashes the ECM to achieve the same result. He discusses the controllers in #10 here but, as stated, that's not how he does it nowadays.
 

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^There are stand alone programmable fan controllers that can be set to come on at a lower temperature. Dano's Performance used to sell them but now reflashes the ECM to achieve the same result. He discusses the controllers in #10 here but, as stated, that's not how he does it nowadays.
where to get these stand alone fan controllers, my car needs one BAD! it always overheats and starts pinging up hills cuz the system just cannot keep up with the wretchid heat unless the AC is on? not all days I want it on, if its 95 no need for AC in the car but the engine will overheat in traffic then has to try and play the catch up game, just be nice if it came on at 185 instead of 220

going to install a hi-flow race radiator in the ford see if that helps but in traffic I need the fan to come on earlier, specially if its 95 outside.. anything higher the AC is on and the fan automatically comes on then and stays relatively OK, it will go up sitting in 115F temps I figger the hi flo radiator will cure most of that

same for the bikes, no AC so there is no fan to ignite in that manner, really like the fan to come on earlier at least 20 degrees, in the summer months anyway, a easy to locate programmable switch would be the nuts, then I can go back in the winter..

not having a fan switch or a way to get it to activate sooner I am discouraged to ride in the heat, a programmable unit would be the bee knees
 

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^This guy claims to have made the controllers that Dano's sold. You might try asking him. The only place that I know of where they're currently sold is, strangely, Australia. See here. Note that it's listed as for K5-K9 1000. Seems likely that it would work on any model with that fan relay but I'd need to see a schematic to comment beyond that. In fact, the thread that I linked to above was for a K6 750. You're on you own with regard to a car.

P.S. Davies Craig (Australian company) makes controllers for fans or their electric water pumps. Here's their fan controller. Summit also sells other fan controllers.
 

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^This guy claims to have made the controllers that Dano's sold. You might try asking him. The only place that I know of where they're currently sold is, strangely, Australia. See here. Note that it's listed as for K5-K9 1000. Seems likely that it would work on any model with that fan relay but I'd need to see a schematic to comment beyond that. In fact, the thread that I linked to above was for a K6 750. You're on you own with regard to a car.

P.S. Davies Craig (Australian company) makes controllers for fans or their electric water pumps. Here's their fan controller. Summit also sells other fan controllers.

thanks man Imma definitely look into those... :thumbup heat is on the way
 
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