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Coolant flush/ change

2117 Views 17 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  ric o'chet
Hi guys I’m new here and I’ve recently pick up a 2017 GSXR750 with 4000 miles and just got done doing a coolant flush and change. I flushed the cooling system with about a gallon and half distilled water (the old coolant really wasn’t dirty at all come to find out it was blue if that matters) and I replaced it with roughly a 1/2 gallon of engine ice is all that would fit is that normal? And when just idling in my driveway at 65 f outside it will still get up to 220 and have the fan kick on and go down to about 210 Is that normal? Or should it not go that high?
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I wouldn't know what to recommend as a water coolent. But when I replace the radiator I use waterless coolent and it was the best thing ever bike runs as normal but the coolent don't boil at the same tempiture so making a lot less pressure in the system. So much so that once the bike reached normal operating tempiture I was able to un do the radiator cap.

Plus once change I don't have to keep replacing or worry about water corrosion!

There is lots of place out there selling it. It comes in two parts, one as a pre prep to remove all the water and two the coolent itself!
I was seriously considering this stuff after seeing Ed China use it on a project. Did a bit more research however and decided it was a decidedly bad idea. Can't remember the exact science as to why it's a bad idea so I won't give you my half remembered version. Use it if you want but it's not as good for your engine as 50/50.
Found what I remembered. Guy makes sense to me

Good to know Samco are as fluent in bullshit as so many dealers
another factor must be included is the other chore of coolant, it's not just a thermal liquid, IT'S A LUBRICANT AS WELL! it loobs the water pump!

so thin it down and there goes that
The only part of the waterpump it's going to lubricate is the outer lip of the seal that keeps the oil in and the water out. Corrosion prevention? Nope doesn't perform well there either. Same guy has done a corrosion test over 4 years on Magnesium, Aluminium and Steel. Best performer was Comma 50/50. The waterless stuff looked nasty after 4 years let alone a "lifetime"
I just did mine with engine ice shit works so well no lie
Are your engine temperatures lower now than with 50/50?
lubrication and anti corrosion has been the role of antifreeze coolant for some time, ever hear a squeaky water pump before it leaks? these pumps may have sealed bearings as well as many other modern engines, your typical weep hole water pumps need the lubricant in antifreeze.. why I said go with manufacturers spec..

lets not forget thermostat as well, feel the coolant, it's very slippery..
Not buying the lubrication bit. Anti corrosion? Of course. An important part of it's job. 50/50, however , does a better job at corrosion prevention than straight antifreeze
That's interesting. Have you got any data including ambient temperatures?
coolant has a lube in it for reason

rub coolant between your fingers like oil, slick as snot.. your vehicle tho so by all means...

run pure water in your classic V8 for 30,000 and get back to us...
If it wasn't for the corrosion and if I lived somewhere where it never went below freezing then I probably would. Don't think we're going to convince either one us on this one so let's just agree to disagree on the importance of it's lubricating properties
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