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Hi guys I’m new here and I’ve recently pick up a 2017 GSXR750 with 4000 miles and just got done doing a coolant flush and change. I flushed the cooling system with about a gallon and half distilled water (the old coolant really wasn’t dirty at all come to find out it was blue if that matters) and I replaced it with roughly a 1/2 gallon of engine ice is all that would fit is that normal? And when just idling in my driveway at 65 f outside it will still get up to 220 and have the fan kick on and go down to about 210 Is that normal? Or should it not go that high?
 

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normal, but you might want to either incest in alazer gauge or stop by a shop so they can take real time temps, lot of time wetter and extra cooling additives only fool the sensor into thinking it's said temp, when in reality the thermal properties are different of what Suzuki intended.. 50/50 coolant has a specific thermal property, meaning it can be a certain temp then transfer a certain temp to the sensor for fan..

lot of additives like water wetter just have slower/faster thermal transferring properties..

take lattes for instance, order a whole milk latte and have the barista pull the milk from the wand exactly when the temp gauge reaches 165.. then order a soy latte and have her do the same..

sit them on the counter and take the temp 2-3 minutes later or leave gauges in and watch what happens, the soy will continue to increase to around 174 or so, while the whole milk maybe 166, thermal properties, soy doesn't tell the mercury it's at its actual temp until a lil' later, a delay if you will, so in the end it's actually hotter than registered whenteh it was pulled form the heat source..

water wetters can do the same, your engine may be hotter/cooler when the fan kicks on or any other events that happen at specific temps... 7 degrees isn't all that much until you run into emissions, then your air temp sensor isn't jiving with your engine temp you can get odd FI mixtures for the actual temp the combustion chamber really is.. keep this in mind and running 50/50 water wetter?

race engines sure, short runs, road racing? meh, depends, old tech sure, new tech with all the sensors, you'll have to account for thermal transfer properties, pure water is different than just water, and distilled is different than say hard water with various minerals so forth, again it's not huge with carb tech, but modern FI with closed loop and all that, advanced mapping, it can mix your fuel wrong the entire distance?
 

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normal, but you might want to either incest in alazer gauge or stop by a shop so they can take real time temps, lot of time wetter and extra cooling additives only fool the sensor into thinking it's said temp, when in reality the thermal properties are different of what Suzuki intended.. 50/50 coolant has a specific thermal property, meaning it can be a certain temp then transfer a certain temp to the sensor for fan..

lot of additives like water wetter just have slower/faster thermal transferring properties..

take lattes for instance, order a whole milk latte and have the barista pull the milk from the wand exactly when the temp gauge reaches 165.. then order a soy latte and have her do the same..

sit them on the counter and take the temp 2-3 minutes later or leave gauges in and watch what happens, the soy will continue to increase to around 174 or so, while the whole milk maybe 166, thermal properties, soy doesn't tell the mercury it's at its actual temp until a lil' later, a delay if you will, so in the end it's actually hotter than registered whenteh it was pulled form the heat source..

water wetters can do the same, your engine may be hotter/cooler when the fan kicks on or any other events that happen at specific temps... 7 degrees isn't all that much until you run into emissions, then your air temp sensor isn't jiving with your engine temp you can get odd FI mixtures for the actual temp the combustion chamber really is.. keep this in mind and running 50/50 water wetter?

race engines sure, short runs, road racing? meh, depends, old tech sure, new tech with all the sensors, you'll have to account for thermal transfer properties, pure water is different than just water, and distilled is different than say hard water with various minerals so forth, again it's not huge with carb tech, but modern FI with closed loop and all that, advanced mapping, it can mix your fuel wrong the entire distance?
What would you recommend I run for a coolant? I had no idea that it did that go figure 🤣
 

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I wouldn't know what to recommend as a water coolent. But when I replace the radiator I use waterless coolent and it was the best thing ever bike runs as normal but the coolent don't boil at the same tempiture so making a lot less pressure in the system. So much so that once the bike reached normal operating tempiture I was able to un do the radiator cap.

Plus once change I don't have to keep replacing or worry about water corrosion!

There is lots of place out there selling it. It comes in two parts, one as a pre prep to remove all the water and two the coolent itself!
 

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I'd just run 50/50 coolant the manual recommends then if you live in the southwest or a uber hot region get a remote fan switch and run the fan when not on freeways or constantly moving 35mph+, these bikes cool pretty good when moving and not too bad when sitting, only thing is the fans run on engine temp as opposed to ambient, one day Suzuki may get their shit together and offer southwest versions with dual fans, heavy duty high capacity radiators and ambient temp fan sensors..

doesn't take a PHD to realize when it's 108 outside and you are sitting in traffic you need "fans" on all the time and high capacity radiators if not secondary reservoirs as well..

trucks and SUV's offer those types of packages.. tow package, "southwest edition" .. nothing worse than coming to your first stop and your bike is already at 228 and its 110 outside and every car is already at max temp bleeding hot air everywhere.. at that point the "fan" struggles to keep the bike from boiling over kicking on at 228 or so.. if a sensor was to sense its 108 out, ambient temp.. and automatically kick the fan on anytime your under 35 or so in 90 degree+ it would make the riding experience a whole lot better..

either dual fans or HD 2 speed fans?.. $20k and the Hayabusa still has the old engine temp sensor single fan setup, so not only are you boiling your nuts off when its 108, your engine is desperately trying to bleed off temps down to 186 or so.. lotta that heat is absorbed by the rider, 30 degrees is a lot with gear and helmet on, if the bike never gets over 190 ever then it's not as dangerous.. a stranger rolling through on a ride may get in trouble not expecting the raise in temp experience caused by intense heat?

tell you what firs time I ever experienced heat like that we dropped down from the west side of redding california in July, we popped across from 101 to I-5, dropped out of these mountains and into some seriously intense heat, bank said 116.. I made the mistake of opening my visor, OUCH!

we went about a mile then pulled over at a motel and waited for night, rough even being outside, not too mention black asphalt parking lots to the store.. it dropped down to like 98 at night but without the sun beating down it seemed much better, our tires were still melting we hit some road work and they routed us off the shoulder, my tires were picking up rocks and flinging them, we stopped to see what was up and I found pebbles embedded in my DOT's, I ran mediums..

first time riding in that kind of heat, brutal..
 

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I wouldn't know what to recommend as a water coolent. But when I replace the radiator I use waterless coolent and it was the best thing ever bike runs as normal but the coolent don't boil at the same tempiture so making a lot less pressure in the system. So much so that once the bike reached normal operating tempiture I was able to un do the radiator cap.

Plus once change I don't have to keep replacing or worry about water corrosion!

There is lots of place out there selling it. It comes in two parts, one as a pre prep to remove all the water and two the coolent itself!
I was seriously considering this stuff after seeing Ed China use it on a project. Did a bit more research however and decided it was a decidedly bad idea. Can't remember the exact science as to why it's a bad idea so I won't give you my half remembered version. Use it if you want but it's not as good for your engine as 50/50.
 

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I was seriously considering this stuff after seeing Ed China use it on a project. Did a bit more research however and decided it was a decidedly bad idea. Can't remember the exact science as to why it's a bad idea so I won't give you my half remembered version. Use it if you want but it's not as good for your engine as 50/50.
Thanks for the heads up will have to look into it. As for "Ed China" me too but when I spoke to race bike bits for samco hoses they thought it was a good idea when i asked them especially if intending to increase HP because with waterless there is a lot less pressure on the system over all!. Plus if you intend to run track days the bikes will run close to waters boiling point which isn't that good as it means there's a lot more steam in the cooling system which will vent at the pressure cap and potentially leaking coolent on the track slipping stuff apparently. The steam can also mean a reduction in power towards the end of the race which is why a lot of the racers use it. great if you have a steam engine through lol
But even with all that there must be reasons why people are wary of using it so further investigation is still needed!
 

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another factor must be included is the other chore of coolant, it's not just a thermal liquid, IT'S A LUBRICANT AS WELL! it loobs the water pump!

so thin it down and there goes that
 

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another factor must be included is the other chore of coolant, it's not just a thermal liquid, IT'S A LUBRICANT AS WELL! it loobs the water pump!

so thin it down and there goes that
The only part of the waterpump it's going to lubricate is the outer lip of the seal that keeps the oil in and the water out. Corrosion prevention? Nope doesn't perform well there either. Same guy has done a corrosion test over 4 years on Magnesium, Aluminium and Steel. Best performer was Comma 50/50. The waterless stuff looked nasty after 4 years let alone a "lifetime"
 

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lubrication and anti corrosion has been the role of antifreeze coolant for some time, ever hear a squeaky water pump before it leaks? these pumps may have sealed bearings as well as many other modern engines, your typical weep hole water pumps need the lubricant in antifreeze.. why I said go with manufacturers spec..

lets not forget thermostat as well, feel the coolant, it's very slippery..
 
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