Suzuki GSX-R Motorcycle Forums Gixxer.com banner

1 - 20 of 36 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
34 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hi all, 2004 GSXR 750 K4, 29000 miles, bike is garaged, but every cold start the clutch is stuck. I recently changed the oil, but no improvement. Luckily I live on a hill, so I can get the bike rolling, then engage 1st, and a little acceleration & clutch action frees up the clutch again. It's getting tedious now having to do this for every cold start (like when the bike has been sitting for a week). Any ideas?
 

·
Dreaming of buttsecks for years...
Joined
·
14,251 Posts
Can you describe a bit more about what you mean by stuck?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
34 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
I would best describe it as follows:
To start the bike, I need to pull in the clutch lever (I assume we all do). I let the bike warm up, then I push it out of the garage. When I pull the clutch lever in, and engage 1st gear, the bike lurches forward & will (thankfully) stall. Despite having the lever pulled in, it's like it isn't pulled in. I can aim the bike down the hill, engage 1st on the move, then 2nd, and the clutch then works as it should, like the motion jolts it free. The cable looks new, and the action feels "normal" when I pull the lever - except when cold it apparently doesn't actually disengage the clutch.
 

·
Dreaming of buttsecks for years...
Joined
·
14,251 Posts
Have you checked the pushrod adjustment? That's really the only true clutch adjustment. The other two are cable adjustments.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,395 Posts
also when you say "the cable looks new" what does that mean?

the housing looks new? the cable itself is shiny and intact where its visible?

looks can be deceiving..

the cable has to turn radius's and so forth, so it rubs on the inside of the housing which is a coated steel as well, that can cause strands to snap and weaken the cable, it then begins to stretch.. or they just stretch after time..

my advice is to adjust the spinner on the clutch perch a lil' a at time see if that doesn't improve the condition..

if it only does it when cold its more than likely needs a slight adjustment, when it does it hot as well then it definitely needs adjusting..

if this doesn't do it or you run out of adjustment there is adjustment at the lower cable, you can figure if you run out of adjustment your cable is fairly stretched, order a new one and toss it in the trunk if you have to get every penny out of the cable, if not replace it with new..

if this still doesn't do the trick like TheGeek said you may have a sticky push rod, service this, still sticky? welp plates may be worn or some other issue with the clutch itself

if you have full adjustment left on the perch and lower cable I bet it just needs a slight adjustment...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
34 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Thanks both for the advice.
The clutch cable and its sleeve literally looks like new, and it moves freely. Pulling the clutch lever when the bike has been sitting for a week feels right, but the clutch doesn't disengage. It's like the friction plates are stuck to the metal plates, and don't free up until they get shocked into breaking the friction - that's the best way I can describe it. Engine oil is new, but it did this before the oil change too.
I took the pushrod out adjacent to the front sprocket, as I renewed the chain last weekend; that moved freely, a nice snug fit.
I will go through the adjustment process, but right now I'm thinking new friction plates and springs.
 

·
Dreaming of buttsecks for years...
Joined
·
14,251 Posts
Start with the simple stuff first. I've seen clutch baskets and hubs get notchy, and even my own clutch has needed a bit of a jolt to break free after it's been sitting a while.
So, what if you start it in neutral hold the clutch and front brake and kick it into first. What happens?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
34 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Start with the simple stuff first. I've seen clutch baskets and hubs get notchy, and even my own clutch has needed a bit of a jolt to break free after it's been sitting a while.
So, what if you start it in neutral hold the clutch and front brake and kick it into first. What happens?
It'a like putting it into gear & not using the clutch! Or like I don't know how to ride a bike! Stalls immediately.
 

·
Dreaming of buttsecks for years...
Joined
·
14,251 Posts
Yeah... that isn't good.

When my clutch does this, I know because it's near impossible to move in gear with the clutch pulled in. So when this happens and I drop it into gear, it just jerks a bit harder than normal, and then everything is fine. I hate to ask, but what oil have you been using?

If the clutch adjustment checks out, my next suggestion is to buy a clutch cover gasket and pull the fibers and steels. Make sure you keep everything in order. Also make sure the washer/spring at the inside are installed correctly. Check each component for flat as you either take them out, or put them back in. The gasket is cheap, but you want one on hand before you start the task. The way the world is now, you might have to wait for a while.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
34 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
The oil is 10W-40 Semi Synthetic from my local Suzuki dealer. I haven't owned the bike long (since August 2020) & haven't done many miles.
There are clutch kits and gaskets online for next day delivery, so I should be ok on that front. If I'm taking the clutch cover off, I might as well do it once & replace the friction plates.
 

·
Dreaming of buttsecks for years...
Joined
·
14,251 Posts
Don't spend money where you don't have to. My 2005 is track only and has 26000 miles on the original clutch. I pulled it in the fall just to inspect it and was astounded how little wear it showed. To inspect it, you will need the gasket, but you may or may not need a clutch kit.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,395 Posts
remember, springs engage, when those or the plates wear the clutch slips..

however if they stick as you said it can cause the clutch to be sticky

you did use proper motor oil right? they have friction inhibitors for wet clutches, why motorcycle specific is critical

level can fubar clutches as well, inspect that
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
158 Posts
OP has just changed the C&S kit right?

So if that front sprocket cover (with the clutch actuator inside) hasn't settled back down correctly (dirt / debris on a mating surface / cable pinched somewhere), that coud slightly affect the adjustment of the pushrod.

I'd be tempted to just take that front cover of and reseat it before even starting to adjust / replace.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
428 Posts
Yeah... that isn't good.

When my clutch does this, I know because it's near impossible to move in gear with the clutch pulled in. So when this happens and I drop it into gear, it just jerks a bit harder than normal, and then everything is fine. I hate to ask, but what oil have you been using?

If the clutch adjustment checks out, my next suggestion is to buy a clutch cover gasket and pull the fibers and steels. Make sure you keep everything in order. Also make sure the washer/spring at the inside are installed correctly. Check each component for flat as you either take them out, or put them back in. The gasket is cheap, but you want one on hand before you start the task. The way the world is now, you might have to wait for a while.
Has anyone here tried filing the notches off the clutch hub and basket ? I have done this on my dirt bikes many times with good results. Being very careful to keep the surface as flat / parallel as possible. The reinforced ring around the clutch basket (K7) will make this difficult. This is one of my next projects.
And YES this will increase the clearance between the plates and the alloy clutch.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
34 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
OP has just changed the C&S kit right?

So if that front sprocket cover (with the clutch actuator inside) hasn't settled back down correctly (dirt / debris on a mating surface / cable pinched somewhere), that coud slightly affect the adjustment of the pushrod.

I'd be tempted to just take that front cover of and reseat it before even starting to adjust / replace.
It was like this before I changed the chain & sprocket. Safe to say there has been "no change" whatsoever.
Everything moves as it should, nothing is jammed when I pull the clutch lever, it's just that the clutch doesn't disengaged until shocked into submission (by riding it).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
34 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
Haven't pulled anything apart yet, snow stopped things here for a few days. Will get back on it at the weekend.
 

·
Dreaming of buttsecks for years...
Joined
·
14,251 Posts
Get a piece of cardboard and when you pull the bolts, lay them in the pattern on the cardboard. A couple might be a different length. A long bolt in a short hole will ruin your day.
 
1 - 20 of 36 Posts
Top