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Discussion Starter #1
What are some solutions to for GSXR 750 based air/oil cooled motor with a clutch slipping problem?

My turbo '00 Katana 750 slips badly on anything more than about 8 psi boost. I already have stiffer Barnett springs installed.

Simply installing some stiffer springs yet may work but this seems more like a bandaid fix instead of a solution. Not sure the stock basket can handle this much power. Its only a wimpy 7 plate/4 spring setup.

Is an older GSXR750/1100 clutch basket/hub assembly compatible to 'drop in' to a 750 motor?

Who's got some drag racing experience with GSXRs? These people must know something on how to get the power to the rear wheel.

Someone throw me a bone here. Thanks
 

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Hey, a few suggestions ...

First, do you have a hydraulic clutch? Or is it a cable activated one? If it is hydraulic, you need to switch over to a cable. For info on this, go to www.banditalley.com then to the FAQ. They explain how to switch a bandit hydraulic clutch over to a cable.

Second, I'd suggest searching www.dragbike.com They do a lot of oil cooled stuff on that site.

Third, a guy named Anders Brinks (probably has a link on the Bandit alley website) is a drag racer running Bandit and other motors. He has his own website with some tech stuff on it.

Lastly, www.katanaplanet.com (they may have moved recently, but that will get you to their old site, then follow the link to the new site) may have some information there. However, don't hold your breath. They are nice folks, but some of the info I've seen over there indicates they are not always so well-informed.

Good luck ... and if you ultimately already have a cable activated, non-hydraulic clutch, you need to get rid of your synthetic oil. I am pushing 140 horsies on such a beast, and it grabs and don't let go. Of course, it also feels like a Ducati clutch on steroids too...
 

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Repost this over on the Water-Pumper forum. The two Eds there, 'Edster' and 'GSXR1198' both have good x-over experience with clutches. Hey, it can't hurt!

Yo, dinoracer - my motor is still stock, except for bolt on shit (136bhp/75lbft dyno200). Not going to build up this year or next, but will be after that. So let me know what the deal is with the cable vs hydro clutch...I thought that was just weight for the roadracers????? Always adding to the 'database'
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Wow, quick replies. Thanks all.

The lockup clutch idea isn't bad but my bodywork will not fit with the extended side covers.


I'm a member of KatanaPlanet also. The newer Kats are known to have slipping clutchs with STOCK power output - damn under engineered crap.

Basically I need to find info on what beefier clutch I can retro fit into my '00 Katana 750 motor.

I'll repost again on the H20 area. Thanks again.
 

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BC John,
Hey, the GSXR hydraulic clutch is fine, more or less. Less, because you don't have much "feel" for launching (sort of, in my opinion, like a light switch). The cable clutch is heavy as hell to pull in, but it gives much much much better feel.

In my motors case, mostly a Bandit 1200 (ok, with a Kat crank, but Bandit tranny), the Bandit clutch is a diaphragm clutch, which is pretty weak ... hence my changing it out. My clutch is a 1990 Katana 1100 clutch, but rigged with a 750 actuator and a longer push rod to compensate because it was born as a hydraulic clutch. The clutch in your bike should be plenty strong, and should not need adapting (at least to what info I have acquired), except if you want to have a greater amount of feel for launching. Just don't plan on sitting at a red light, in gear, with the clutch in!
 

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Originally posted by Destroy:
What are some solutions to for GSXR 750 based air/oil cooled motor with a clutch slipping problem?

My turbo '00 Katana 750 slips badly on anything more than about 8 psi boost. I already have stiffer Barnett springs installed.

Simply installing some stiffer springs yet may work but this seems more like a bandaid fix instead of a solution. Not sure the stock basket can handle this much power. Its only a wimpy 7 plate/4 spring setup.

Is an older GSXR750/1100 clutch basket/hub assembly compatible to 'drop in' to a 750 motor?

Who's got some drag racing experience with GSXRs? These people must know something on how to get the power to the rear wheel.

Someone throw me a bone here. Thanks
<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">Call Mick at Monster cycle performance. 480-649-2021 Mick designed a lock up clutch that fits in the stock location. "most" 7 sec street shoot out bikes run his clutch. Many where on the brink of 7's and his clutch made the difference. The lever is easy and it holds 400hp no problem.

CT
 

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Everyone's giving you good advice. I have had two GSXR 1100's with Trubo's one a Hahn Racecraft kit and the other a Mr. Turbo and the only way I could get the clutch to hold is to put a Lock-up on them. I do not know if anyone makes one for the 750 based engine. I even still have a MRE from my last turbo bike out in the garage.
Bones
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I'm not making THAT much power guys that I can warrant a $500 lock up clutch. Heh.

Stock my 750 Kat makes 83hp. With my turbo I'm shooting for a max of 140hp, more realistically probably 130hp. Nothing outragious.

A stock GSXR1100 or stiff springed GSXR750 setup should work fine.

Seems I'm on my own on finding out what will retro fit properly in my bike but I'll figure it out. Just hoping I could save some time by asking here first thats all.

Thanks again for all the input.
 

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As I don't have loads of experience with Katanas I can't be sure but I know I tried a lock up in my gsxr and unless you are running bars,slick and 2 step the lock up sucks becuase it removes the control of the clutch from you. Once it locks up It's locked up.Mine would jerk real bad on the launch cuasing slower E.T. than with heavy duty non lock up. 60 ft times much better with standard type clutch. Ditch the hydraulic clutch if so equipped(I hate them)(but I think Bandits/katanas have Cable actuated).Holeshot performance would be my first stop followed by Dragbike.com. If anyone knows it will be Dale Walker at Holeshot.
I do envy you more than a little cuz I have had the dream of a fast Katana(oxymoron?)(mutually exclusive terms)(kind of like a reliable Kaw!) I can see it now all stock appearing Katana maybe lowered with 4" swinger extension and a wider gsxr rear wheel,sticky tire, Fire breathing big bore motor, or maybe a turbo. NEVER race the katana. If you win, Who cares you beat a Kan-o-tuna. But if you lose................ Kind of like racing a VW Beetle.
 

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Originally posted by Wild Bill:
As I don't have loads of experience with Katanas I can't be sure but I know I tried a lock up in my gsxr and unless you are running bars,slick and 2 step the lock up sucks becuase it removes the control of the clutch from you. Once it locks up It's locked up.Mine would jerk real bad on the launch cuasing slower E.T. than with heavy duty non lock up. 60 ft times much better with standard type clutch. Ditch the hydraulic clutch if so equipped(I hate them)(but I think Bandits/katanas have Cable actuated).Holeshot performance would be my first stop followed by Dragbike.com. If anyone knows it will be Dale Walker at Holeshot.
I do envy you more than a little cuz I have had the dream of a fast Katana(oxymoron?)(mutually exclusive terms)(kind of like a reliable Kaw!) I can see it now all stock appearing Katana maybe lowered with 4" swinger extension and a wider gsxr rear wheel,sticky tire, Fire breathing big bore motor, or maybe a turbo. NEVER race the katana. If you win, Who cares you beat a Kan-o-tuna. But if you lose................ Kind of like racing a VW Beetle.
<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">Wild Bill.. Its funny you talk of a fast Katana. A few years back there used to be a guy that would roll into town in a pickup with a stock looking Katana 1100 in the back. He would ride around on that old Katana looking for races from the sport bike crowd. Complete with the stock looking exhaust and electric windscreen :)CBR900s, CBR600, Zx7's ect.. would come out of the wood work as they thought they would beat that old Kat... The money race would be setup and Blam... Out of nowhere that Kat would throw down and smoke them all. Then they guy would get his money, Put the bike in the truck and head to the next town. There was a rumor that he would travel like this every year on his vacation just cleaning up... The next year he came to town and made a dyno pull on a friends dyno. If I remember right he made 220 at the wheel which was a HELL OF ALOT for those days. He never did let on to what was in that motor but It was rumored to be a 1400CC+ 1127 oil cooler motor. Never saw him since...

CT
 

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Originally posted by dinoracer:
BC John,
Hey, the GSXR hydraulic clutch is fine, more or less. Less, because you don't have much "feel" for launching (sort of, in my opinion, like a light switch). The cable clutch is heavy as hell to pull in, but it gives much much much better feel.

In my motors case, mostly a Bandit 1200 (ok, with a Kat crank, but Bandit tranny), the Bandit clutch is a diaphragm clutch, which is pretty weak ... hence my changing it out. My clutch is a 1990 Katana 1100 clutch, but rigged with a 750 actuator and a longer push rod to compensate because it was born as a hydraulic clutch. The clutch in your bike should be plenty strong, and should not need adapting (at least to what info I have acquired), except if you want to have a greater amount of feel for launching. Just don't plan on sitting at a red light, in gear, with the clutch in!
<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">Thanks for the info - have Barnett springs in, so avoid the stoplight pull in order to avoid the fiddler crab look
, not to mention the clutch roast bit.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Do a lot of you guys do drag racing? Sure seems like it cause lock up clutches seem to be a hot ticket. heh

From a mechanical stand point, if I were to put thinner clutch plates and was able to fit an extra friction and steel plate(for more surface area) in my basket then used 100lb Barnett custom springs, think my clutch basket and hub would hold the 140hp with out exploding?
 

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Originally posted by Destroy:
Do a lot of you guys do drag racing? Sure seems like it cause lock up clutches seem to be a hot ticket. heh

From a mechanical stand point, if I were to put thinner clutch plates and was able to fit an extra friction and steel plate(for more surface area) in my basket then used 100lb Barnett custom springs, think my clutch basket and hub would hold the 140hp with out exploding?
<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">I tried that stunt on a 750 GSXR... it didn't explode, but what it did do was ugly... the thinner plates gouged out slots in the clutch hub such that even disengaged, with no spring tension, the clutch wouldn't fully release... talk about the crab-walk at stoplights... it got so bad that slipping the bike into first while sitting still would stall the motor. I had to replace the hub and the basket as well as all the clutch plates to sort the thing out. I will not *ever* use a Barnett "extra-plate" clutch again. I'm pulling 131RWHP on my 1127 motor and the stock 1100 OEM clutch (with diaphram-spring and hydraulic actuator) works flawlessly.
 

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I don't know if this will help but I had a slipping clutch in a katana 1100 sidecar only had 160hp but under a lot of load all the time I put a mre lockup in and it made it much better but then we started smashing fibre plates tried all brands with not much success. The thing that made the most differance was machining the steel plates when you buy them new they are a long way from flat or straight. Some are that bad I had to grind them for 5mins each side.
Ive told this to other people with street bikes and everyone who has tried it has had good results It's surprising whow good they work.
 

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Must be nice to have your own surface grinder! I have a lathe and a mill, as will as several bandsaws and welding machines but I haven't stepped up to a surface grinder (mostly cuz I can't afford the one I want!) Good luck with the diaphragm(sic) clutch(whoever was using it?) I hate those things!
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Ok, called Barnett this AM. Seems my stock springs are a wimpy 58lbs/inch. They checked and hooked me up with a spring that should fit fine and is 78lb/inch.

Think this will make a large enough difference to hold the 80hp to 140hp increase?

Course my left forearm may look like a gorilla after a few months though.


FYI, the first set of Barnett springs I ordered that were made for my bike are only 5% stiffer than stock. So be careful what you order sometimes cause that isn't squat of an increase!!!!!
 

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Originally posted by Wild Bill:
[QB]
Must be nice to have your own surface grinder! I have a lathe and a mill, as will as several bandsaws and welding machines but I haven't stepped up to a surface grinder (mostly cuz I can't afford the one I want!)
__________________________________________________
I wish I had surface grinder!! It's amazing how far a carton of beer will get you in Australia.
 

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Hows the weather down there where the toilet water swirls the wrong way? All my life I have wanted to visit the land down under, maybe even move there..........wish I was rich! Any job ads in the paper for a machinist/salesman/sales manager/ironworker/pipefitter/welder down there? I have my own tools!
 

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It's a good place to live, plenty of jobs but not in papers need to know people.Come over and have a look we ride all year round hardly ever wet or cold and have a few good drag strips.Good parts are hard to get so you end up making everything which is not a bad thing eg. I made a exhaust a while ago for a speedway sidecar stuck it on the dyno then bolted two differant yoshi's on it,I lost hp with the yoshi's [they were lighter though]
I wouldn't mind going to the U.S.A. where the the water swirls the WRONG way.
 
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