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Discussion Starter #1
I recently acquired a K4 with 45000km on clock. It's generally in excellent condition, but the clutch "grabs" if I try to pull off fast i.e rev motor and slip the clutch.
The plates and springs are all in good condition and well within the wear limits.
Any input as to possible reasons why this is happening would be appreciated.
Cheers John.
 

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I just posted this on the K5-6 1000 forum.
05/06 Gsxr 1000 Clutch Mod DIY w/ lots of Pics

I've read practically every K1-K9 clutch post there is in an effort to satisfy my K4 clutch OCDness.
This is my first road bike K4 1000, when purchased it had 16,000km and had been fitted with the Kawa plate and was smooth on take off but that was it. Crunched when changing up and down gears, changed the oil to Amsoil and it was 30% better.
Then I removed the clutch and found it was dry, lubed plates was better for a while, removed basket and drilled 3 holes.
Better again but it still felt like the clutch wasn't fully releasing. Also when changing gears and releasing the throttle it felt the like engine braking was slowing the revs down too much and just the engine braking in general was too much (I ride two stroke dirt bikes) had to keep a little throttle on. Clicking from 2nd to 3rd was real clunky.
So I bought a low mile K8 complete clutch assembly. Ordered a new K5-6 lifter hat to fine tune rod length and a new gear selector star.
I drilled 3 extra holes in the basket and fitted everything this week, still on Christmas holidays😁. Set slipper adjustment to 2 turns out.
Did a 200km test ride today and it's a different bike! Snicks gears no crunching. 2nd to 3rd great now shifts smooth. No engine braking effect on gear changes, I can pop down through the gears and the bike stays calm almost feels two strokeish running through a turn, one small down side is I have to brake harder to compensate for lack of engine braking! So happy with the bike now, one happy camper!
Thanks again for all the great information.
Next job is to re-valve and spring the rock hard forks.
 

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^See the K5/K6 clutch mod. I'd assumed that K7/K8 had six holes but just checked and they also have three.

mrgsxr600: "Ordered a new K5-6 lifter hat"
That's what Suzuki refers to as the clutch push piece?
 

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Yes your right "Piece, clutch push"
You will need to order from the K5-K6 clutch parts fiche, numbers 27,33 & 42 . I had to cut 5mm off the adjuster rod (33) as it was contacting the clutch cover.
I fitted a K8 clutch cover at the same time as it's easier to adjust the slipper lifters again by just unscrewing the inspection cover.
The rest of the parts are the same assuming you have a complete K5-K8 clutch assembly.
Holes are already cast in the clutch basket with 3 already drilled out. Make sure you drill down to the hard metal gear ( You cant damage it with light pressure) and thoroughly wash /blow out any metal filings!
Also the K4 service manual lists the clutch hub nut torque at 150NM yet the K8 manual says 95nm for the same parts?
I torqued the nut to 95NM.
KTM also reduced clutch hub nut torque from an early to late models too I suspect it's to stop the parts binding / dragging?
Cheers
 
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