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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi. After reading through the forums amd the sticky in this forum iv decided to go about the clutch mod to try and solve the launch problem im having with my bike. On anything more than a slow steady start the clutch is grinding, feels awful and makes a horrible noise. But does not slip at any other time of riding. I have read of other people having the problem but not really any solutions suggested. So i have started stripping my clutch down tonight and started inspecting my clutch plates.
My findings are the clutch plates 0.2mm off serviceable limit. 2.4 being the limit, 2.6 being the measurement. Would you you be replacing these, what is the drive plate measurment on a new plate? Also how are the EBC kits rated or is it best going for the genuine?
My other observation was my clutch springs are over the serviceable limit. Could this give me the problem im experiencing?
And finally am i right in saying the mod should be drilling the holes out on the basket and changing the relevant washer for the 750cc variant?
Any input appreciated.
Thanks
 

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On anything more than a slow steady start the clutch is grinding, feels awful and makes a horrible noise. But does not slip at any other time of riding. I have read of other people having the problem but not really any solutions suggested.
I believe that comes from a wrong/worn clutch washer

Don't ask me the specific Part #,

21471-41G00
SEAT, WAVE WASHER
Or
21472-41G00
WASHER, CLUTCH PLATE WAVE

but I'm sure someone else can pin down what I'm referring to

...but it seems your clutch is in need of more than just that washer
 

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Grinding ? This is during release of the lever ( disengagement ) as you move off ? Grinding sound must be metal to metal which should see telltale marks somewhere in the clutch.
What does the Clutch Release Bearing look like ? Item # 38 here.
Clutch plates worn, too small, will cause slipping. ( less pressure on springs )
Clutch springs compressed, too small ( out of spec ), will cause slipping. ( less pressure on plates )
As your clutch is not slipping, your problem is elsewhere.
 

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The drive plates were originally 2.72 to 2.88 mm thick. 2.6 mm is acceptable. The standard spring length is 57 mm with 54.2 mm being the service limit.

The nominal stack height is 10 x 2.8 + 9 x 2.3 = 48.7 mm. The two extra driven plate thicknesses allow the height to be adjusted to this value if the tolerances combine to a different height. The stack height would be 47.9/49.5 mm if all drive plates were 2.72/2.88 mm and 44.9 mm if all were at the 2.42 mm service limit.

Check the basket and hub for notches associated with wear. They can normally be fixed with a file. This has all sorts of good information, including the relative unimportance of stack height. The Suzuki plates work fine.
 

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Back in 2009 I had what sounds like the same problem. It would kind of bog down and make a weird noise. Forget a brisk start, it just wouldn’t happen. At the time I remember changing the plates and hey presto it was perfect :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Grinding ? This is during release of the lever ( disengagement ) as you move off ? Grinding sound must be metal to metal which should see telltale marks somewhere in the clutch.
What does the Clutch Release Bearing look like ? Item # 38 here.
Clutch plates worn, too small, will cause slipping. ( less pressure on springs )
Clutch springs compressed, too small ( out of spec ), will cause slipping. ( less pressure on plates )
As your clutch is not slipping, your problem is elsewhere.
yeah its not like a metal on metal grinding. Probably the wrong word. It is when you move off and the clutch dissengages it makes a rubbing/whining noise almost a squeek. I think its slips aswell but not much. It sounds like the common k5-k6 clutch problem mentioned in a few posts in the forum. The release bearing looks fine.
But yeah im not having a problem with clutch slipping
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
The drive plates were originally 2.72 to 2.88 mm thick. 2.6 mm is acceptable. The standard spring length is 57 mm with 54.2 mm being the service limit.

The nominal stack height is 10 x 2.8 + 9 x 2.3 = 48.7 mm. The two extra driven plate thicknesses allow the height to be adjusted to this value if the tolerances combine to a different height. The stack height would be 47.9/49.5 mm if all drive plates were 2.72/2.88 mm and 44.9 mm if all were at the 2.42 mm service limit.

Check the basket and hub for notches associated with wear. They can normally be fixed with a file. This has all sorts of good information, including the relative unimportance of stack height. The Suzuki plates work fine.
Thanks for that. So do you think i should put a new kit in and springs aswell as the mod?
 

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^Based on what you've posted, all you seem to need is the different bevel washer, which as I recall is from the K7 1000. The pn is in the mod instructions.

As far as I know, the only difference between the two washers is the amount of the bevel. If you have the ability to measure it, it would be helpful if you could measure the height of both washers and post it here.

"am i right in saying the mod should be drilling the holes out on the basket and changing the relevant washer for the 750cc variant?"
You can drill the holes if you want but all you really need is the different washer. However if you're in a drilling mood, there are eighteen 2 mm oiling holes in the side of the clutch hub. They were changed to 3 mm in 2007. The only reason that I can think of for larger holes is to improve the flow of oil from inside the hub to the clutch plates. You might consider enlarging yours.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
^Based on what you've posted, all you seem to need is the different bevel washer, which as I recall is from the K7 1000. The pn is in the mod instructions.

As far as I know, the only difference between the two washers is the amount of the bevel. If you have the ability to measure it, it would be helpful if you could measure the height of both washers and post it here.

"am i right in saying the mod should be drilling the holes out on the basket and changing the relevant washer for the 750cc variant?"
You can drill the holes if you want but all you really need is the different washer. However if you're in a drilling mood, there are eighteen 2 mm oiling holes in the side of the clutch hub. They were changed to 3 mm in 2007. The only reason that I can think of for larger holes is to improve the flow of oil from inside the hub to the clutch plates. You might consider enlarging yours.
Thanks bill. what you said about the washer is my belief also. But im sure ive seen it said the part should be from the k5-k6 750cc. I will confirm this. I am a fan of leaving this how they were intended to be to an extent so i might not do any drilling. But the plan now is to change the springs and the washer and go from there. My clutch plates appear fine and dont slip.
I will follow up on here the results and findings of this.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
So as i said i would i a, following up on the clutch mod. I am yet to test it it properly after rebuilding but i have operated the clutch on the stand and gone through the gears and it does feel loads better already. I would road test it but its wet here and the bike has just been cleaned so no no :LOL:. I drilled the basket and spent more time than i should cleaning it to get rid of filings etc. degreaser and a shower head works very well. The washer was part no i swapped is 21472-41G00.
I said i would provide pictures comparing the new and old but it was difficult to get an image that would show the differences between the 2. The replacement washer is the same height and width but the bevel itself is more pronounced, and makes the washer thicker ever so slightly.
This mod wasnt diffcult to do.
I will report back once i have tested the clutch on the road but at this time the clutch deffiniatey feels better in the hand.
I also installed new replacment clutch springs
 

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The OEM K5/K6 1000 bevel washer was 21472-41G00. The bevel washer listed in the clutch mod instructions is 21472-41G10. It was originally used in:
2006 GSX-R600
2006 GSX-R750
2007 GSX-R1000
2007 GSX-R600
2007 GSX-R750
2008 GSX-R1000
2008 GSX-R600
2008 GSX-R750
2008 GSX-R750K8
2008 GSX-R750K9
2009 GSX-R600
2009 GSX-R750K8
2009 GSX-R750K9
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
The OEM K5/K6 1000 bevel washer was 21472-41G00. The bevel washer listed in the clutch mod instructions is 21472-41G10. It was originally used in:
2006 GSX-R600
2006 GSX-R750
2007 GSX-R1000
2007 GSX-R600
2007 GSX-R750
2008 GSX-R1000
2008 GSX-R600
2008 GSX-R750
2008 GSX-R750K8
2008 GSX-R750K9
2009 GSX-R600
2009 GSX-R750K8
2009 GSX-R750K9
appologies thats the 1 i got
 

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I have the same problem in my K3,but i am replacing the clutch with a slipper one.Should i buy and replace this washer in case it makes it again?Or the "new" used clutch Should be ok?
 

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"i am replacing the clutch with a slipper one"
From a K5/K6? If so, I'd say yes.

It's not a slipper clutch be be aware of this.

P.S. The K7/K8 1000 clutch has the correct bevel washer as well as an improved slipper clutch and several other improvements. Unfortunately it also has the now disfavored hydraulic actuator. But I think it can be converted to manual operation fairly easily.
 

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BillV i read the thread with the k3-4 clutch you posted.I think i'll go that route instead of the bevel washer one.It works 100% as they say,so its better not to try the bevel washer one cause if it doesnt work i ll have to disasemble again.Thanks very much!
 

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Update on my problem with k3-k4 clutch.I opened the clutch cover,removed pressure plate,springs,friction and steel plates,locknut and washers,removed the clutch basket and to my surprise,one washer,the one behind the clutch basket was missing.Number 15 in the picture
Motor vehicle Font Automotive design Engineering Automotive exterior
 
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