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is there anyway to eliminate the choke cable and put a manual side choke on like the 750. This is for a 92 1100
 

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The `89 1100 has the choke setup that you want (on the carbs, no cable) ... you'd prolly hafta buy the whole rack to get all the brackets and everything that you need though? I believe that all the air/oil cooled 1100's after `89 used the same 36mm Mikunis?
 

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Originally posted by FastCat:
The `89 1100 has the choke setup that you want (on the carbs, no cable) ... you'd prolly hafta buy the whole rack to get all the brackets and everything that you need though? I believe that all the air/oil cooled 1100's after `89 used the same 36mm Mikunis?
<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">Yup,I agree
 

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I've got a set of 36mm MIkuni CV's and a set of 38mm Mikuni flat slides, both with the side pull chokes, for sale.

email me if your interested.
 

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why bother with it at all? you only need the choke for starting, and even then, if the carbs are set up right, you wouldn't need to have the choke on for more than a couple of seconds....you only need choke just long enough so that the motor can take a bit of throttle without it.

when i ran 36mm slingshots on my gsxr, i didn't have the choke assembly either (the carbs were off a katana 750 which had a cable choke).....but you can still pull the choke rail with your fingers from the left side of the carbs. the only difference between this and a non-cable choke was that the non-cable choke would hold its position.....whereas in this case, the choke rail would spring shut if you let go of it.

i used to just pull open the choke a little until the motor caught, then close the choke and keep the revs up with a throttle lock.

choke should only be used for cold starting until the motor can take some throttle without it.

i used to see people leave their chokes full open for like 10 minutes to warm up the bike.....then they wonder why they go through spark plugs so fast.
 
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