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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
The power eventually started cutting out while I was riding down the highway. Then abruptly comes back on. Multiple times maybe in 20 second intervals. It does this after I've been riding about an hour. Then it has started happening about 30 miles into my ride. It will do this continuously meanwhile I'm turning the key and kill switch off and on to get it to run til I can get to a place to pull over. Often times it dies and won't start until the key is off 10 or so minutes Then it'll ride another couple miles. When the bike does this it cuts my fuel and ignition tac drops to 0 and the bike won't start unless I cycle the key and sometimes will turn over and not start. The red light stays on when this happens as if I'd hit the kill switch and the cluster says check. If I keep cycling the key while I'm coasting down the highway to get it to stay running the red light will eventually start flashing for about 30 seconds then the bike dies and wont start for about 10 mins. I've totally rebuilt the bike from the tires up. Had to switch frames last year. Every wire is sound. Every connector got some die electric grease. I've ohmd the coils. I've put new plugs in. My kick stand wires are soldered. It happened to me today when I got home so I immediately pulled it into the garage because it died and wouldn't start. I proceeded to put it in dealer mode and moved the tps back to middle again for the 4th time this month. And the bike fired up. I rode about 10 mins to go fill up and back home with no issue. Then tonight I rode to work and about 45 mins into my ride it did the same thing again. I've been chasing this problem for 2 months now. If I ride in dealer mode will the tps or
Wheel Tire Fuel tank Vehicle Automotive lighting

tos throw a code? I've literally ohmd every wire. Tested every relay. Tested voltage. Put in new battery. Stator. Rectifier. You name it I've checked it. No codes have ever came up while I had it in dealer mode in the garage. Wheel Tire Fuel tank Vehicle Automotive lighting
 

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The bike might be telling you that it's had enough of that swingarm.

If you don't have any issue with overheating, put it in dealer mode and leave it there. Look for codes that pop up when it starts misbehaving. Leaving it in dealer mode won't cause other issues. Also, while you're there, connect a small 12 V LED between the O/W and B/W leads of the dealer mode connector and run the leads forward to somewhere that you can see it while you ride. This doesn't have to be pretty. Duct taping it to the tank is fine. Then go for a ride. The light should be on whenever the ignition and engine stop switches are on. If it blinks or goes out, there's a problem with power to the ECM.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The bike might be telling you that it's had enough of that swingarm.

If you don't have any issue with overheating, put it in dealer mode and leave it there. Look for codes that pop up when it starts misbehaving. Leaving it in dealer mode won't cause other issues. Also, while you're there, connect a small 12 V LED between the O/W and B/W leads of the dealer mode connector and run the leads forward to somewhere that you can see it while you ride. This doesn't have to be pretty. Duct taping it to the tank is fine. Then go for a ride. The light should be on whenever the ignition and engine stop switches are on. If it blinks or goes out, there's a problem with power to the ECM.
Awesome! Thank you. What should voltage be at idle and @what rpm should it rise and to what voltage should it raise to? Thanks again.
 

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^That's what first came to my mind but he says that he soldered the kickstand wires together. So I'm now wondering about intermittent power to the ECM. After that it's the ECM connectors or the ECM itself.

Voltage at the battery should be 11.8 - 14 V. But that doesn't sound like a battery charge issue if you're able to restart. Then there's that swingarm.
 

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LOL, swingarm aside, a bad ground would be my next point of focus. Then overall system voltage.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I said my kick wires are soldered together. It test at 13.2 at idle and 14. Revd. It did it today while I had it in dealer mode. No codes came up. I'm gonna try the LED.
I said my kick wires are soldered together. It test at 13.2 at idle and 14. Revd. It did it today while I had it in dealer mode. No codes came up. I'm gonna try the LED.
It'll also Rev all the way up to 12 no issues. Only starts happening an hour into my ride. Shut the bike off for 20 mins and I can ride another hour or so.
 
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