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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
(I've posted on General Forum too, but just in case I'll post here in case someone can help)

My bike battery was running down too quickly...and has died.

I checked the charging system, here is what I have done:

1) Installed brand new battery, checked outout 12V, bike fires right up
2) Inspected Charging output at the battery with 5K RPMs. Output about 11.6V (Charging system is bad)
3) Inspected Generator Coil resistance through the generator couplers, output about .5ohms. Inspected continuity on all prong combinations: passed. (Stator is working fine)
4) Inspected no-load performance on Generator through couplers at 5K rpm, on all prong combinations. Output: about 60V AC. (Generator is fine)

Now for the Rectifier diode test:

Here is the diagram (hope it jogs someone's memory):



I ran the diode tests on all the combinations:

B/W (+)
---> B/R: .935 passed
---> B 1: .517 passed
---> B 2: .520 passed
---> B 3: .520 passed

B 1 (+)
---> B/R: .510 passed
---> B 2: no signal
---> B 3: no signal
---> B/W: no signal

B 2 (+)
---> B/R: .538 passed
---> B 1: no signal
---> B 3: no signal
---> B/W: no signal

B 3 (+)
---> B/R: .539 passed
---> B 1: no signal
---> B 2: no signal
---> B/W: no signal

Do I have a burned Rectifier? Do I need to replace?

If so, what could have caused it? (The other day, while putting my fairings back on, I may have not connected the turn signal wires, which appeared to short something, as the signals would not work at all, and blink would blink the headlights instead --- that's fixed now though)...

Help!

[ 01-04-2003, 11:26 PM: Message edited by: migz123 ]
 

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think you've covered every concievable option there mate.

everything points to the rectifyer so i'd definately replace (or find one to fit temporary and see if it fixes it).
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
thanks dan.... but before actually replacing it, I was thinking about attempting to hardwire it first... maybe ...
 

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Mine is pretty much hardwired now - due to the melting connector block issues, else we could swap

Try pimpin - I'm sure he has a spare
 

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Well even if you hardwire it, if it does not pass the tests it will not matter

I have a extra you can use to test but I am not sure how long it will last.. I thought it was having a problem so I took it out and it didnt make any difference on my bike.. so i think it is still good.

John
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Originally posted by fraggle:
...
Try pimpin - I'm sure he has a spare
<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">Actually I just came back from Pimpin's house and you are right, he did have a spare. We know it was a working one because it came directly from his old set-up (before he converted to 750), which was working fine. We made a nice trade.

I hurried home as I was excited to get my bike working right.

Well here's the stumper: I ran the Rectifier test and came up with the exact same result as my original Rectifier ... damn. Not sure what to do now -- his old set-up was hard wired and my wires are still with the coupler set-up, so I haven't hooked it up and ran a charging test.

Originally posted by GSXR-Freak:
Well even if you hardwire it, if it does not pass the tests it will not matter

I have a extra you can use to test but I am not sure how long it will last.. I thought it was having a problem so I took it out and it didnt make any difference on my bike.. so i think it is still good.

John
<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">John - see my above response to fraggle...

I've gone such a long way, and I'm stumped again


According to this thread I really wasn't supposed to get any signals on some parts of the rectifier test... (it happened to match my results).

The Manual says that if all charging system tests are good, including the Rectifier, then the next possibility could be a short-circuited wiring harness .... could that be it?

Maybe my earlier turn signal problem last week shorted the wiring harness - I think my blinker wires may have short-circuited something upon reinstall of fairings, as these weren't working when I test drove the bike after installing my new case covers. (the left blinker would actually flash the headlights instead of blink). NOTE: My left blinker is hard-wired and does not use the OEM black coupler. I removed my fairings, jiggled the wires around and then the blinkers were operative again. I thought nothing of it until my bike wouldn't start a couple of hundred miles later.


[ 01-04-2003, 11:30 PM: Message edited by: migz123 ]
 

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hey why dont u try ur test again first get ur bike running get to 4 k rpm and see whats ur output from the stator it should be like around 50 to 70 ac volts then if that comes ok put ur negative lead on ground and if u get any reading ur stator is bad . if u want to check ur regulator/rectifier put it on diode check and yellow to black and then yellow to red that would be forward bias and reverse bias (check ur manual ) but if ur stator is bad u probably fried ur regulator/rectifier

let me know how u ended up
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Originally posted by ridder994:
hey why dont u try ur test again first get ur bike running get to 4 k rpm and see whats ur output from the stator it should be like around 50 to 70 ac volts then if that comes ok put ur negative lead on ground and if u get any reading ur stator is bad . if u want to check ur regulator/rectifier put it on diode check and yellow to black and then yellow to red that would be forward bias and reverse bias (check ur manual ) but if ur stator is bad u probably fried ur regulator/rectifier

let me know how u ended up
<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">Thanks for the reply --

I just ran the test again and got about 67VAC out of the stator at about 5K rpm... I'm not sure what you mean by "put your negative lead on ground" .... I'm just new at this ... can you explain how to do it?... and I can get results right away ...

****EDIT/UPDATE**** I got it... Stator is reading fine.
thanks......

[ 01-05-2003, 08:39 PM: Message edited by: migz123 ]
 

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Check the wires on the front left side behind the plastic... I had problems with one or two wires rubbing bare up there.... Might be worth looking into.

John
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Originally posted by GSXR-Freak:
Check the wires on the front left side behind the plastic... I had problems with one or two wires rubbing bare up there.... Might be worth looking into.

John
<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">I went out and bought a new Multi-Meter ... and I went through the manual checklist again: results:

Battery Charging Output Inspection: failed (output was 11.4V at 5krpm)

Generator Coil/Stator Resistance Inspection:
- Continuity: exists, passed
- Resistance Reading: about .6 to .7 (a little higher than manual recommended: "approximately .3")

Generator No-Load Performance Inspection:
result: 67V AC at 5Krpm: passed

Regulator/Rectifier Inspection:
result: passed all 20 probes

According to the manual, the next step would be to look for a short in the wiring harness... I've checked the front left area and tried to look for exposed copper or rubbing, so far can't find any...
 

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OK This is what I would do.. I would start testing the voltage at every connection starting with the poss side of the bat... Then work your way back looking for a voltage drop.. IE, start at the batt and then move down the starter relay and test it at the wire that connects to the batt.. Maybe that wire is bad.. and so on.. keep going back.. If you get to the regulator and still have not found a drop then I would try the other regulator...

John
 

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Hey if you dont understand what I am talking about, call me...


John
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Originally posted by GSXR-Freak:
Hey if you dont understand what I am talking about, call me...


John
<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">cool... thanks John.... check your PM's...
 

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Back to ya!!


John
 
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