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Discussion Starter #1
Ok bought 07 750 no fairings or lights. Put everything together runs and rides great. Speedo doesn’t work and battery doesn’t charge while running 12.3 with headlight or fan on maxing at 12.6 without either hooked up I get 13.7 new battery rectifier and stator tests good I’m super stumped
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Also with fully charged battery starts weak and pump will prime again -.03 battery leak unless I unplug fuel fuse and rectifier
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Tested stator .8 resistance from ground to each pin .3 when testing pins together 65 vac when at 5k and bike spits when trying to start
 

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Discussion Starter #6
And I’ve tested everything but the rr new and old one are charging battery the same way maybe I got a bad one
 

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O.K. is 65 V AC the same on all 3 pairs? How about idle - what doeas it show on idle?
With 5k on mine usually it was around 80 v AC but 65 V is minimum Ithink as per service manual and it may depend on temperature, it is important for it to be equal on all 3 pairs. At idle I usually got 22-24 v AC each pair.
You checked stator to earth if there is no short circuit?
 

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You could put additional wires - black and red - from r/r to the bike connector directly to battery (may want to put a fuse on the red one to be on the safe side) and see if that changes anything about your charging.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I’m not great at electronic issues having hot start issues all seemed to start when I changed the oil and tightened clutch cover gonna check stator again. I did find a melted connecter main ground in stator I patched a piece of wire in
 

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Sorry, where was the melted connector? There's no ground connector in stator, there's only 3 yellow wires going out.
So, where did You patch the wire in?
Did You look INTO the generator? Was there anything burnt if You did? I am a bit confused re melted connector...
The red and black wire 'trick' - connecting the r/r directly to battery with additional wires (put the fuse on the red one) bypasses the bike and should make charging better.
 

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If the stator is 23 V on idle and 80 V on high revs and all that the same for all 3 pairs it looks okay then.
You could measure r/r with diode mode on multimeter as per service manual but if 2 reg/recs charge the same you may have some voltage loss (bad resistance) somewhere, I'd really suggest using them additional red/black wires to see if that changes anything...
 

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Discussion Starter #15
The ground from the r/r was melted. The one that runs to the main ground. With full battery doesn’t crank right just a little slow and will spit and backfire smell like fuel
 

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It's about connecting from where the red and black wires go (usually two of each) out from r/r connected to the bike. You run the additional red wire to the plus of the battery and black one to the minus. As you bypass not only the bike's harness but also the main fuse on the normal 'red route' so it is advisable to install a fuse on the red wire you add.
Initially You could use some wires with prongs at r/r connector side and those "crocodile" connectors at battery side (like additional multimeter ones come sometimes) just to connect it temporarily and measure charging to see if it helps and is worthwile making a proper, permanent connection.
I hope it makes sense to You.
And You did measure all 3 pairs of yellow wires AC voltage coming from the generator, didn't You?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Yea I checked all three for stator going to try diode test on r/r tonight your saying just run both red and black wires to battery
 

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That's what helped on mine without looking into reasons but it'd be good to get to the bottom of the problem.
Just try with tank opened and seat off a temporary connection and see if it works/helps first and if it does work out how to run wires and include the fuse on the red one.
Good luck :)
 

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I haven't followed the conversation very closely, but note that if the stator and rectifier test ok, but there's still no charging, the issue is likely to be in the wiring between them (as I think Kartel already mentioned). Bypassing the OEM wiring entirely should not be necessary though and could introduced more complications and potential dangers if not done right. Check the wiring and couplers between the stator, rectifier and the rest of the bike, and check for signs of overheating, loose, dirty or otherwise improper connections. Fix as necessary.

The weak starting problem is probably unrelated to this, but is also likely to be due to bad wiring, although other causes are possible (a bad starter relay, bad starter, etc)
 
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