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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I fried my ECU while using a car to jump my battery after my rectifier went bad facepalm. Just replaced the ECU and the bike starts but now what seems like randomly, the bikes idle slows significantly, and the exhaust note is much deeper. When this happens I also have only about 80% of power that I remember the bike having. It just seems sluggish. I have a two brothers M2 slip on exhaust and my cat is removed. I am not the original owner of this bike, so I'm not sure if the ecu that was fried had been flashed for the slip on exhaust.

The idle is still at 1200 RPM, but the idle is just slower. I even stalled out putting it into 1st twice, because the engine wasn't idling "fast" enough to disengage the clutch like how it used to. And I have never stalled the bike before now.

Does this sound like I need an ecu flash? Or does anyone have any ideas?
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
I fried my ECU while using a car to jump my battery after my rectifier went bad facepalm. Just replaced the ECU and the bike starts but now what seems like randomly, the bikes idle slows significantly, and the exhaust note is much deeper. When this happens I also have only about 80% of power that I remember the bike having. It just seems sluggish. I have a two brothers M2 slip on exhaust and my cat is removed. I am not the original owner of this bike, so I'm not sure if the ecu that was fried had been flashed for the slip on exhaust.

The idle is still at 1200 RPM, but the idle is just slower. I even stalled out putting it into 1st twice, because the engine wasn't idling "fast" enough to disengage the clutch like how it used to. And I have never stalled the bike before now.

Does this sound like I need an ecu flash? Or does anyone have any ideas?
Engine also pops and bangs now, my buddy was riding behind me and he said he saw a flame come out of the exhaust too, small but still wtf?? It didn't use to do that.
 

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yea find out if the old ECU was mapped and at what values, is the ECU to trashed to enter with flash tool or do you know?

the slip on shouldn;t make a whole lot of difference unless they did other things, pair removal, exhaust SET valve removal, so forth, then messed with idle A/F values so forth..

you could if it's easy just have yours flashed for the mods that have been done.. look it over, is the pari module gone? was it even electronic? is the SET valve gone the valve where the mid pipe is has a fe cables going to it?

note any mods it has along with exhaust and someone can flash the ECU unit.. may as well if it's not too difficult as you want the ECU optimized for your mods right?

also if you purchased a used ECU it could have issues as well?

IMHO its best to buy a good used STOCK ECU, then find a buddy with a good running stock bike, swap ECU's, this lets you know if said used ECU is good or bad... then have it mapped for your mods..
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
yea find out if the old ECU was mapped and at what values, is the ECU to trashed to enter with flash tool or do you know?

the slip on shouldn;t make a whole lot of difference unless they did other things, pair removal, exhaust SET valve removal, so forth, then messed with idle A/F values so forth..

you could if it's easy just have yours flashed for the mods that have been done.. look it over, is the pari module gone? was it even electronic? is the SET valve gone the valve where the mid pipe is has a fe cables going to it?

note any mods it has along with exhaust and someone can flash the ECU unit.. may as well if it's not too difficult as you want the ECU optimized for your mods right?

also if you purchased a used ECU it could have issues as well?

IMHO its best to buy a good used STOCK ECU, then find a buddy with a good running stock bike, swap ECU's, this lets you know if said used ECU is good or bad... then have it mapped for your mods.
When I bought the bike, he said there were no maps and it wasn't tuned. The previous ecu was no longer turning on the fuel pump when the bike was turned on, that's why I replaced it, so not sure if it would still read what the numbers were set too.

My set valve is still there, but I can hear it clicking, like it is trying to move but can't. It did this before I switched ecu's tho.

I purchase my ECU used on ebay but it was from a reputable shop called gixxerrestorations i think, they have hundreds of 5 star reviews, so I know this is a working ECU.

I asked what the bike that this ecu came off of had on it and they replied with: "If I am not mistaking that ecu was removed from a bike with a full yoshimura system, bmc filter. Also had a pc3 installed in it which is typically a tell tale sign that the ecu had not been programmed."
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I fried my ECU while using a car to jump my battery after my rectifier went bad facepalm. Just replaced the ECU and the bike starts but now what seems like randomly, the bikes idle slows significantly, and the exhaust note is much deeper. When this happens I also have only about 80% of power that I remember the bike having. It just seems sluggish. I have a two brothers M2 slip on exhaust and my cat is removed. I am not the original owner of this bike, so I'm not sure if the ecu that was fried had been flashed for the slip on exhaust.

The idle is still at 1200 RPM, but the idle is just slower. I even stalled out putting it into 1st twice, because the engine wasn't idling "fast" enough to disengage the clutch like how it used to. And I have never stalled the bike before now.

Does this sound like I need an ecu flash? Or does anyone have any ideas?
Correction : I am not the original owner of this bike, so I'm not sure if the ecu that was fried had been flashed for the slip on exhaust AND CAT REMOVAL.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
yea find out if the old ECU was mapped and at what values, is the ECU to trashed to enter with flash tool or do you know?

the slip on shouldn;t make a whole lot of difference unless they did other things, pair removal, exhaust SET valve removal, so forth, then messed with idle A/F values so forth..

you could if it's easy just have yours flashed for the mods that have been done.. look it over, is the pari module gone? was it even electronic? is the SET valve gone the valve where the mid pipe is has a fe cables going to it?

note any mods it has along with exhaust and someone can flash the ECU unit.. may as well if it's not too difficult as you want the ECU optimized for your mods right?

also if you purchased a used ECU it could have issues as well?

IMHO its best to buy a good used STOCK ECU, then find a buddy with a good running stock bike, swap ECU's, this lets you know if said used ECU is good or bad... then have it mapped for your mods..
Also, is this hurting my bike to ride like this. I am taking it to a shop soon to get diagnostic/ ECU flash but I want to ride this weekend, should I park it and just wait?
 

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welp, sort the SET first, make sure its not jammed up or failing, go from there..

far as hurting it if the SET is not opening all the way it may cause poor performance for sure, if its a closed loop FI system its going to get all sorts of bad information to the O2 sensor as the SET is holding back or not closing..

I think there is a mod for removing the SET if you wanted to remove it? not 100% but this is a common modification.. if it has electrical to it you would need the module that plugs in there then the cable mods, you can research the "SET removal mod" for your bike..

at least remove the exhaust down to the SET mid pipe then look to see if its opening and closing as you modulate the throttle, open on full, closed on idle right?

do this first, remove the cat/can whatever give it a whirl see how its behaving.. may be connected improperly or something?
 
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