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Discussion Starter #1
Hey all once I get more familiar with the new bike I am thinking of changing my set up to 16/45 which I believe is -1/+2 to give me more torque and less top end, I know I will need to buy a speedo healer to account for the change.

My question is will I need to buy a different length chain or is there enough adjustment in the standard setup to cover the sprocket change?
 

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Hey all once I get more familiar with the new bike I am thinking of changing my set up to 16/45 which I believe is -1/+2 to give me more torque and less top end, I know I will need to buy a speedo healer to account for the change.

My question is will I need to buy a different length chain or is there enough adjustment in the standard setup to cover the sprocket change?
If you're changing your sprockets, you should change the chain as well. Because not only do you need to take into account the length of the chain, but also the pitch of the sprockets and chain.
 

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Out of curiosity, why do you want to go so low on the gearing?? -1/+1 is all you need yet you still get decent top end of 165-170 and fuel economy not compromised too much. Fun too!! I had that on my L2 and I can not keep the front tire down!! If you wack the throttle from a role, that thing would almost flip over if you didn't know what you were doing? My friends that rode it said, "man, that thing surprised me!!" All I had was the gearing, 520 chain, full exhaust and custom map.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Cheers for the replys, honestly I have never changed the sprockets on a bike before so don't really know what to expect, I don't know how big of a difference changing the teeth will make but figured the bigger the change the more effect will be felt.

I don't want to change them and feel little difference, but that's that's another reason for asking instead of just doing it, means I can get the advice/experience of people in the know that have done the mod before.

I much prefer the thrill of a power wheelie over the breakneck 150+mph speeds so the more torque I can make while still having the ability to do about 100mph is what I am looking for
 

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Not sure what bike you are riding, but a 600 is more than capable of power wheelies with stock gearing. If you are having trouble, it is technique.

You may not like going -1/+2 because it will make each gear shorter, so you will have to shift to carry it any distance, unless you are at BP.

I would advise against it if you do any distance riding. Top speed is one thing, but cruising RPM will also be affected in a bad way.
 

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Hey all once I get more familiar with the new bike I am thinking of changing my set up to 16/45 which I believe is -1/+2 to give me more torque and less top end, I know I will need to buy a speedo healer to account for the change.

My question is will I need to buy a different length chain or is there enough adjustment in the standard setup to cover the sprocket change?
I went for -1 on the front on my L4 and I didn't feel a massive difference to be honest, it's a little better at low speeds (<20mph) which is nice, but I also went for a 55 profile rear which does also slightly raise the gearing.

Incidentally the 55 profile rear is fab, it makes the bike feel so much quicker to turn in, I'd certainly never go back to a 50 rear.
 

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I am also running -1 on the front on my K6 with a 55 tire and also didn't feel a massive difference. To answer the original question, yes....buy a new chain. I use a Speed DRD to correct the speedometer.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Not sure what bike you are riding, but a 600 is more than capable of power wheelies with stock gearing. If you are having trouble, it is technique.

You may not like going -1/+2 because it will make each gear shorter, so you will have to shift to carry it any distance, unless you are at BP.

I would advise against it if you do any distance riding. Top speed is one thing, but cruising RPM will also be affected in a bad way.
I am on a GSXR1000 which yes is more than enough to power wheelie in stock form.

I am new to trying to wheelie so yes a lot of it will be technique, I guess what I am trying to do is bring the torque in much easier so I will be at lower speeds and I won't have to snap the throttle open quickly and try to hang on, maybe I am going about it the wrong way but as mentioned I have never done a sprocket mod or ridden a bike with different sprockets so I don't really know what to expect (there is only so much you can learn from YouTube)

You do make a good point about the cruising RPM and shorter gears they are things I never considered, how badly will these be effected?
 

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Sounds like wheelies are your goal. Most will tell you to learn to clutch them up to keep speeds down. Abandon the power wheelies. They are better suited for chasing them out, which means higher speed.

The only bike I have ever geared was a 600. It would come up much easier, but that same torque can make it twitchy when approaching BP. Easier to loop, but you have more engine braking... Highway RPM drove me crazy so I went back. Always searching for seventh gear. A liter bike would probably be fine since they are geared much higher than the 600s.
 

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Learn how to ride first before you kill yourself or total your bike on a wheelie. If you can't pop a wheelie on a 1000, then you have no business on a bike. Just the ugly truth!!

Not trying to be an ass or anything but by your comments, you are very new to this arena.

Be safe, ride around experienced riders and learn from them!!

If you still go with the gearing change, then don't go anything lower than -1/+2. But -1/+1 is all you really need.
 
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