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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i just started doing some minor research on chain and sprocket combinations and i'm kinda confusing myself. are there any good sites or members out there that can explain this in plain english to me.

Also what combinations are recommended for our oil cooled bikes? I'm looking to get some more umph out of the box and im not interested in top speed....over 150mph.... i ride on the street and i may see a track day once or twice a year. I'm not a stunter either, but like most riders its fun to get the front wheel up every once and awhile.


any suggestions?
 

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On my 91 750 I am running Vortex sprockets, 15t front and 48t rear and an RK GXW chain. I commute on the bike every day and do 1 trackday and race per month on average.
 

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Yeah, I did this a year ago too and it took awhile to decide.....

Basically, everything has to match in size, replace everything, and don't go too cheap. In general stay away from the packaged sets as they are poorer quality. For the rear some people prefer steel, if not make sure you get the hardened aluminum. You could also go with the thinner 520 chain which is still plenty strong and save some weight that way.

I ended up with an RK X-Ring Gold something-or-other chain and sprocket specialists 520 sprockets. Got a few thousand miles on them and the aluminum rear is holding up well.

I don't really care so much about top end either, and went with a 13/48


The countershaft sprocket can be a bitch to remove if it's original!!!!

Rag.
 

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I ride my bike just about everyday. I originally had 14 43. The chain was getting bad, so I replaced it with a 520 and a 15 45 set ( I didnt check the front sprocket and assumed it was a stock 15 but it wasnt ). I just installed a 14 front, so now I have a 14 45. The rear is an aluminum vortex. My rpm is alot higher on the eway. I notice more vibration on the eway. I do a mix of eway and city riding. I live in a country area, so roads are often unposted ( 55 mph then ). So the majority of riding I do is eway to the city. I am not one to crank 150 + , but do ride around 70-80. I just took my first long ride on the eway with the new gears and it was also the first ride of the year. So the rpm seemed really high. But after awhile I got used to it. But I will say , think of engine wear and friction wear will increase when ever you jump up your cruise rpm.

Ragnar, I couldnt imagine riding with a 13,48 combo on the eway. What are your rpms at 70-80 mph ? I bet that is an awesome gear for the city though.

One last side note, with my setup ( see signature ) the bike will blow the rear tire off in first and second gear if you ride it hard. It will power wheelie in first gear, though I havent gone out and hammered it too much , since I just installed clutches also. I slipped the clutch a little in first gear and got on it and the rear spun at the same time the front tire came up about 3 inches and skipped the pavement a short way out.

Rpm at 70 mph was about 7000.

Good luck with your choice
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
the 14f 45r sounds like what i looking for. From what i read the 14f 45r will produce about 11% more torque on the rear tire. or make it feel like it has more torque.

i'm curious as to the drivability of the 13f 48r is. Ragnar can you explain changes from your OEM setup to that?

what rpms are you at XXmph?

CustomizedCreations.... what brand chain and sprockets did you pickup?
 

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you guys are comparing apples and oranges: 750's and 1100's have different gearings and number of gears as well.
 

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you guys are comparing apples and oranges: 750's and 1100's have different gearings and number of gears as well.
Your right. There is even a difference between the 1052 and 1127. I think if you went with 13/48 on a 750 you better have wheelie bars:) With the 1052 it's really not bad at all, I want to say 4500rpm gives me 70-75mph. But now that I'm finally sorting out the carb kit, it looks like power wheelies in second may be possible
 

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Anyone know what sprockets my 91 1100 came with? I replaced my chain and both sprockets last year. The bike had modified gearing. I asked for stock. The dealer looked it up but I cant remember now. My RPM at 70 is 6000 rpm or so. seems high to me... 80mph is clear over 6k rpm in top gear.


C
 

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Try to avoid going to a smaller sprocket on the front. Your chain stays healthier doing larger circles, so go the gusto with a longer replacement chain and go up by three teeth on the rear (roughly equivalent to down one tooth on the front).

On my pumper, I went up one tooth on the front sprocket, then up 6 teeth on the rear (ie, up 3 plus another three to compensate for the larger front). Your engine torque stays the same, but you experience a higher 'driving force' at lower speeds, killing off some of your theoretical top speed. I say theoretical, since most bikes of our vintages were geared way tall and could never approach the speeds calculated by just rpm and gearing. In fact, some bikes wind up going faster since you can make more use of top gear, rather than having it go flat and drone on at lower revs.

When I went up by 6 teeth on the rear, I had to turf the stock chainguard, since it then rubbed and had a new one fabbed up.

Good luck, you will be pleasantly surprised.

PS: you will save a boatload of weight going to a 530 aluminum sprocket on the rear, even more with 520. I personally will not run 520 for a street machine, preferring longer sprocket chain life over the next sizes weight drop.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
well after close inspection come to find out the bike has an aftermarket sprocket set.

i think it is a 14f and 43r

what is the OEM sprocket size?
 

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15 43 is stock ( pretty sure on that for 92 750 ). Thats what I originally had on mine. It had a hard time hitting 145 mph. ( two up , I dont ever really remember hitting higher speeds with just me on it ) . But with my recent 14 front install with a 45 rear, I was able to hit 130 mph alot quicker and with way more rpm and one more gear left to go. I am going to bet that with this gearing the bike is more able to use its useable power range more effectively. I ll be out at the track this weekend and see how it runs 1/4 mile wise vs the old gearing. Plus I ll try and make a few top speed runs as well.

Manson,
I would say its better to be safe then sorry and just bump up the rear sprocket 2-3 teeth and keep the front where its at. You ll be very happy with it. If you go to high, you ll feel like your going to blow it up on the highway. Not to mention greatly reduce your engine life.
 
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