Guessing you likely had a carb rack with aftermarket needles and it was jetted to match. Impossible to know without seeing the needles.
Now that you’ve changed the jetting drastically, of course it’s not rite. And you’ve introduced manny variables of possibilities of what could be wrong. Without someone knowledgeable physically handling the carb rack, your rabbit hole of problem possibilities could be endless.
RS3 canister will make zero effect on your jetting because it is essentially the oem canister.... it’s a bolt on canister, you have a oem exhaust.
I’ve never seen the all-balls “jet kit” but I’m willing to bet the jets you bought are not OEM mikuni and it’s very likely their tolerances and sizes are not identical between their numbering scale. If you want it to be right, you should have replaced what you took off with the same brand and size as what was on there. Without seeing the stamping on the jets you used to have, it’s impossible for us to tell you if you had dynojet jets or oem jets and etc others before.
K&N air filters Are garbage on your carb’d srad. Throw it away. If you want a permanent cleanable/reusable air filter, buy a BMC “race” air filter online. Otherwise buy a oem air filter from a suzuki part vendor.
Also the srad carbs are not sensitive with syncing. Doing a bench sync is fully adequate if done correctly. Typically people mess up the 2.5 turns out from fill seated on the air fuel set screws, thinking they are tuning it, but in reality they’re just buggering it all up and repeatedly crushing that oring quickly making it a problem. Other thing people tend to bugger with is the float height setting, it’s 7mm from the highest point of the float to the surface... without the special tool for the job, it’s pretty easy to mess that up and have variable settings ranging around 1-3 mm in error from just not understanding it’s the highest point, not the highest point you can jimmy rig with a peice if paper or caliper tail end. And while on that mindset of area, aftermaket needles and needle seat buckets suck. Chances are high the more you fiddle with the carbs the more your going to need to replace from unintentional damaging. Essentially every time you see a oring or handle a peice with rubber on it, your likely going to need to replace it since our fuels all have ethanol in them, the rubber takes a beating. Mostly on the float needles and buckets. But you’ll know when they fail, you’ll have fuel all around your bike and engine.
Also did you forget to connect the Y pipe to the front of the airbox?
I should have made this response shorter.....
Throw away your k&n
Throw away whatever you got from all balls racing and put into your carbs.
If you want the carbs to be rite, buy oem mikuni parts either from suzuki parts themselves or mikuni themselves or authorized resellers.
Check your Tapered needles and see if they are adjustable, if so, you got kit needles, either way upload a photo of your tapered needle and we could help you identify them to get the correct jetting in the first shot.
Now that you’ve changed the jetting drastically, of course it’s not rite. And you’ve introduced manny variables of possibilities of what could be wrong. Without someone knowledgeable physically handling the carb rack, your rabbit hole of problem possibilities could be endless.
RS3 canister will make zero effect on your jetting because it is essentially the oem canister.... it’s a bolt on canister, you have a oem exhaust.
I’ve never seen the all-balls “jet kit” but I’m willing to bet the jets you bought are not OEM mikuni and it’s very likely their tolerances and sizes are not identical between their numbering scale. If you want it to be right, you should have replaced what you took off with the same brand and size as what was on there. Without seeing the stamping on the jets you used to have, it’s impossible for us to tell you if you had dynojet jets or oem jets and etc others before.
K&N air filters Are garbage on your carb’d srad. Throw it away. If you want a permanent cleanable/reusable air filter, buy a BMC “race” air filter online. Otherwise buy a oem air filter from a suzuki part vendor.
Also the srad carbs are not sensitive with syncing. Doing a bench sync is fully adequate if done correctly. Typically people mess up the 2.5 turns out from fill seated on the air fuel set screws, thinking they are tuning it, but in reality they’re just buggering it all up and repeatedly crushing that oring quickly making it a problem. Other thing people tend to bugger with is the float height setting, it’s 7mm from the highest point of the float to the surface... without the special tool for the job, it’s pretty easy to mess that up and have variable settings ranging around 1-3 mm in error from just not understanding it’s the highest point, not the highest point you can jimmy rig with a peice if paper or caliper tail end. And while on that mindset of area, aftermaket needles and needle seat buckets suck. Chances are high the more you fiddle with the carbs the more your going to need to replace from unintentional damaging. Essentially every time you see a oring or handle a peice with rubber on it, your likely going to need to replace it since our fuels all have ethanol in them, the rubber takes a beating. Mostly on the float needles and buckets. But you’ll know when they fail, you’ll have fuel all around your bike and engine.
Also did you forget to connect the Y pipe to the front of the airbox?
I should have made this response shorter.....
Throw away your k&n
Throw away whatever you got from all balls racing and put into your carbs.
If you want the carbs to be rite, buy oem mikuni parts either from suzuki parts themselves or mikuni themselves or authorized resellers.
Check your Tapered needles and see if they are adjustable, if so, you got kit needles, either way upload a photo of your tapered needle and we could help you identify them to get the correct jetting in the first shot.
