[D-Money Moss]

First time posting on here but I have no idea where to go so I thought I might come here.

So I broke down at a Publix, bike didn't have a charge so I couldn't get it started, ended up having someone help me get it going. He was a mobile mechanic of some sort and also told me the battery was ok since he had a battery tester too, and he told me that the stator was most likely the problem. Ended up buying a stator and rectifier and replaced them both, took me a long time but I was careful and everything ended up going well. Bought some oil to refill it and put everything back together and jumped it and it worked fine. Did a little test drive down the street and it worked perfect but the oil light was on so I went back and parked it. Realized I forgot to do the priming thing with the filter so I loosened that up to let some oil out and then topped it off with a little bit more oil till it checked out alright on the side of the valve. Turned the bike on again only to realize no charge once again so I changed the battery (darn battery test). The oil light was still on when I turned on the bike after replacing the battery, but I also noticed an FL light was on. Did the code check and ended up with a C13 which I guess is one of the air pressure sensors, so I went back in and made sure I had the two vacuum hoses securely connected to the air-box and disconnected and reconnected the three sensor wires at the front and put everything back together just to get the same code again (I'm not turning bike on till code is gone). So what I was wondering is:

1. Is the after market stator/rectifier throwing off some of the electric components in the computer?
2. Did I stupidly miss a wire connection or a hose of some sort?
3. I did remember I touched the top most intake flap out of curiosity (Forgot what it was called) and it moved slightly, did that trigger a sensor to malfunction?
4. Is the oil light on because of the code, and if not, what should I do about that? (I put in about 2.8 qts while checking the window on the side, and when I first put the oil in I warmed it up and checked again and topped it off so I don't know if maybe I did put too much or too little in there).
5. I washed the K&N with soap and water (Probably should've bought the cleaning kit) and let it dry overnight, maybe its detecting moisture in there and doesn't like it?

I have a decent level of experience with working on cars but limited experience with bikes, but I followed videos and good instructions on replacing the stator and rectifier so I am pretty sure that's not the issue but perhaps what I did with the airbox and such. I just don't know if there's a little thing I missed or messed up on, and all the forums I could find on this didn't really have both these issues connected so I wanted to see if anyone had any information regarding this. And if there is a forum out there that I missed feel free to link it and I can look at it there. Thank you all for the help, the depression of not riding is starting to set in:frown2:. The website won't let me put a signature for some reason so I'll make my own.

2007 Ninja 650-Sold
2007 GSXR 750-Barely Alive
1989 Nissan 240sx-Dead

 

[dpapavas]

1. Is the after market stator/rectifier throwing off some of the electric components in the computer?

The stator isn't turning while the engine is not running, so it's basically an assemby of magnets. Barring any strange failures, it shouldn't have any effect on the electrical system. The rectifier isn't receiving power from the stator, so the only effect it could have on the electrics, is blowing fuses or draining the battery if it had failed with a short to ground. It seems unlikely that any of the two is related with your code.

2. Did I stupidly miss a wire connection or a hose of some sort?

The service manual mentions (see page 4-38), both the conditions under which a C13 is thrown, as well as troubleshooting procedures. There's only one couple connecting the sensor to the electrical system of the bike, so I don't see how you could've missed something, but there might be some wiring problem causing this. As far as hoses are concerned, a disconnected hose exposes the sensor to ambient pressure, which is pretty much what happens when you twist the throttle wide open. I wouldn't expect it to throw a code, but the manual does mention leaks and clogged hoses as possible causes, so in any case, you'll have to investigate.

3. I did remember I touched the top most intake flap out of curiosity (Forgot what it was called) and it moved slightly, did that trigger a sensor to malfunction?

No, but note that the secondary throttle valves are servo-operated. Since servo geartrains are designed for the maximum torque that the motor can transmit through them, operating them manually, like you did, can easily applie back-torques that exceed the design limits and strip gears, or break shafts. Therefore, it should be avoided, or, if necessary (such as when performing certain maintenance tasks on the throttle bodies), one should be very gentle in handling them.

4. Is the oil light on because of the code, and if not, what should I do about that? (I put in about 2.8 qts while checking the window on the side, and when I first put the oil in I warmed it up and checked again and topped it off so I don't know if maybe I did put too much or too little in there).

The "oil light" is actually a general "fault indicator", and may light for several reasons. If it's on because of the oil pressure, it'll be accompanied by an oiler icon on the dash (Note that that's only a problem when the engine is running, since if not, there's zero pressure and it should be on). It will also light when a code is thrown though.

In any case, if in doubt about the oil quantity, it should be checked as described in the service manual. (Put on level surface, operate engine for a few minutes, let it sit for a couple more and check sight glass.)

5. I washed the K&N with soap and water (Probably should've bought the cleaning kit) and let it dry overnight, maybe its detecting moisture in there and doesn't like it?

I doubt it, though perhaps some of the oil, moisture and or loose debris in the filter might have clogged the sensor or vacuum hoses. A long shot, but I mention it, since you brought it up. I'd advise ditching the aftermarket filter in favor of OEM in any case.

 

[TheGeek]

C13 is the intake air pressure sensor. Rear, bottom, right corner of the airbox. Three wires in the connector. G/B, B/Br, and R. Make sure that connection is tight.

 

[BillV]

+1 I'm guessing that he disconnected the IAP sensor for some reason or another and failed to reconnect. I have the K6 600 service manual and the best pics are in the throttle body removal, throttle valve synchronization, and location of electrical components sections. There's also an associated hose but I'm guessing that it's OK.

 

[TheGeek]

Or got the plugs/sensors cross connected.