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Burned out Rectifier single connection? Plug help

230 Views 18 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  Eugsxr, 
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Hi fellas, have attached an image or two.

GSXR k7 600 rectifier (looks to be elektrex) has finally burnt out, or by the looks of it a single connector, can I get an opinion whether I could strip the wires from the plug and salvage everything? Does anyone know where I can find a connector like that?


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BillV said:
We need better pics of your connectors that show the latch and shell details. Is this yours? Look carefully, for example, are the two lower contacts wider than the top three that run to the stator?


The biggest problem with this connector is that it isn't sealed, which invites corrosion and contact failure. Crimped connections are claimed to be as good as soldered. But that assumes that you have the correct crimping tools, which can cost hundreds of dollars. If you're going to replace both sides you might consider upgrading to a better connector.

BTW, I have a K4 600 service manual that shows a five lead R/R connector. But my K6 750 manual shows a four lead connector to the main harness and a separate three lead connector to the stator, the same as my K6 1000. This suggests that yours should be the same.
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hi mate thanks for the post! I’ve added some more pictures here of the connectors, added one also for the wiring return you mentioned. I’m in the UK if that helps at all - for where on earth I could pickup a replacement cream coloured connector?
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Engenia said:
Seen THAT before.
If it is what I think it is, this feeds power to most of the bike. The current flow is hefty and the wire is only crimped to the blade connector. Over time the mechanical connection between the copper wire strands and the blade connector weaken and oxidise, gradually building a high resistance joint which heats up and melts the housing and damages the male-female connection. Everything turns to hell in a hat-basket.

Your best bet is to
  1. replace the housings unless they can be cleaned up.
  2. replace the damaged blade pins with the thickest/strongest ones you can find
  3. clean up the wire so that it can be soldered in step 5
  4. crimp the wire to the pin as hard as you can.
  5. solder the crimp
Do that and you'll be fine.

(I didn't realise the significance of using crimped joints with these connectors and didn't solder them. I installed a 30 Amp relay to take the load off of the damaged connection, and unknowingly transferred the problem to the new relay ..... resulting in a melted relay base 5 years later.
I still use the relay, but have discarded the base and used the method above to terminate it.)
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hi! Thanks so much for taking the time to reply, do you know where I can pickup the cream Coloured connector? I have all the crimping tools and pins but cannot find that connector anywhere (UK). Thanks again
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Eugsxr said:
hi! Thanks so much for taking the time to reply, do you know where I can pickup the cream Coloured connector? I have all the crimping tools and pins but cannot find that connector anywhere (UK). Thanks again
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Have also added a few more images of connectors/wiring
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Engenia said:
I'm at a loss. Never seen it before.
The housing doesn't look that far gone though. If you are careful you may be able to clean it up & reuse it. At worst, the damaged part of the housing could be cut away and the female tab pin simply slid into position once the remainder of the housing is slid into place.
The melted section of the black housing looks like it was caused by the female tab. The blade needs a bit of oxide removal, but should be ok.

I'd be replacing every female tab pin that looks even remotely like it's been hot. Check the crimp as well.
Any you replace, solder after crimping. Solder the crimps of those you retain.

If you replace with the plug from AliExpress, as per Bill's post, remove the pins and have a very close look at them. Chinese tab pins are not generally that good. The housing will be fine. If you can find alternative pins made to the NEMA, BS or AS standards, use them.
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Hi again :) This from Wemoto/Electrex looks to be the one? What do you reckon.. the strangest thing about it after searching the code parts..... is this a bloody Honda replacement!



Product Font Screenshot Parallel Rectangle




When searching the same product code......


Product Font Screenshot Parallel Rectangle

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@Engenia Hi again! Bought myself a multimeter that should be here shortly. Do you have any the readings that are expected/bad of that of a fried stator/rectifier, which wires to read from etc?

if not where should I be looking :) thanks
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TwistedMister said:
I do recommend upgrading charging system regardless especially if you water wash and or ride in the wet... roadster cycles has good ideas, the direct to battery mod with the inline voltage guage, fuse or breaker is a fantastic idea.. why bikes don't have gauges is beyond me, idiot lights are for idiots.. a gauge lets you know in time to test system and address before you run out 300 miles form no where, they are easy to wire in and they make attractive digital and analog gauges, easy to place with velcro .. the upgraded shingen stator and mosfet R/Ris the way to go here with direct to battery mod.. everything electrical on older bikes just works better for instance, no dash light flicker at idle, smoother ignition, better startups, all teh way around just better ..

you can research what mosfet is, metal oxide semiconductor field effect transistor .. with insulated gates

dunno what this guy is using for an R/R but it looks good.. prolly mosfet.. I think they are anodizing them cuz folks are putting them up front where they can get air passing over them.. not a bad idea but on yours you can just locate it under the right rear foot rest.. again heavy duty velcro right to the under tail, good enough, the mosfet runs cooler anyway so many do not worry but it cannot hurt to put it out in the open..

also be sure to go over all your connectors, plugs.. clean them with electrical cleaner like a good Deoxit, they offer small brushes if its real crusty and corroded, then pack every connector with dielectric grease, go over it with heat shrink packed with grease to insulate from water only if you used mosfet as everything runs cooler, if not then it may just get hotter, but at least pack connectors to prevent arcing which is another enemy of the connector that can cause issue specially in the ignition and ECU arena.. basically go over all your wiring make sure nothingis broke or melted, and everything is making good clean contact
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Thankyou so much for the detailed responses. Very much appreciated
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