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Burned out Rectifier single connection? Plug help

237 Views 18 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  Eugsxr
Hi fellas, have attached an image or two.

GSXR k7 600 rectifier (looks to be elektrex) has finally burnt out, or by the looks of it a single connector, can I get an opinion whether I could strip the wires from the plug and salvage everything? Does anyone know where I can find a connector like that?

Finger Electronic component Electric blue Fashion accessory Circuit component

Hand Finger Thumb Automotive lighting Nail

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Seen THAT before.
If it is what I think it is, this feeds power to most of the bike. The current flow is hefty and the wire is only crimped to the blade connector. Over time the mechanical connection between the copper wire strands and the blade connector weaken and oxidise, gradually building a high resistance joint which heats up and melts the housing and damages the male-female connection. Everything turns to hell in a hat-basket.

Your best bet is to
  1. replace the housings unless they can be cleaned up.
  2. replace the damaged blade pins with the thickest/strongest ones you can find
  3. clean up the wire so that it can be soldered in step 5
  4. crimp the wire to the pin as hard as you can.
  5. solder the crimp
Do that and you'll be fine.

(I didn't realise the significance of using crimped joints with these connectors and didn't solder them. I installed a 30 Amp relay to take the load off of the damaged connection, and unknowingly transferred the problem to the new relay ..... resulting in a melted relay base 5 years later.
I still use the relay, but have discarded the base and used the method above to terminate it.)
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.. where I can pickup the cream Coloured connector? ...cannot find that connector anywhere (UK).
I'm at a loss. Never seen it before.
The housing doesn't look that far gone though. If you are careful you may be able to clean it up & reuse it. At worst, the damaged part of the housing could be cut away and the female tab pin simply slid into position once the remainder of the housing is slid into place.
The melted section of the black housing looks like it was caused by the female tab. The blade needs a bit of oxide removal, but should be ok.

I'd be replacing every female tab pin that looks even remotely like it's been hot. Check the crimp as well.
Any you replace, solder after crimping. Solder the crimps of those you retain.

If you replace with the plug from AliExpress, as per Bill's post, remove the pins and have a very close look at them. Chinese tab pins are not generally that good. The housing will be fine. If you can find alternative pins made to the NEMA, BS or AS standards, use them.
That's what it looks like on the 2010 too. Much bigger heatsinking than what @Eugsxr has, but that doesn't mean much.
I'm all for alternatives, if they are a compatible improvement. There are MOSFETs around now that have drain resistances in the milli-Ohms, unheard of 10 years ago, meaning they can carry 10 Amps and dissipate the heat into a circuit board. BJTs can't hope to match that.
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