Burned out Rectifier single connection? Plug help

246 Views 18 Replies 5 Participants Last post by Eugsxr, 5 d ago

Eugsxr

Discussion Starter · 12 d ago

3

Hi fellas, have attached an image or two.

GSXR k7 600 rectifier (looks to be elektrex) has finally burnt out, or by the looks of it a single connector, can I get an opinion whether I could strip the wires from the plug and salvage everything? Does anyone know where I can find a connector like that?

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Engenia

· #2 · 11 d ago

Seen THAT before.
If it is what I think it is, this feeds power to most of the bike. The current flow is hefty and the wire is only crimped to the blade connector. Over time the mechanical connection between the copper wire strands and the blade connector weaken and oxidise, gradually building a high resistance joint which heats up and melts the housing and damages the male-female connection. Everything turns to hell in a hat-basket.

Your best bet is to

replace the housings unless they can be cleaned up.
replace the damaged blade pins with the thickest/strongest ones you can find
clean up the wire so that it can be soldered in step 5
crimp the wire to the pin as hard as you can.
solder the crimp

Do that and you'll be fine.

(I didn't realise the significance of using crimped joints with these connectors and didn't solder them. I installed a 30 Amp relay to take the load off of the damaged connection, and unknowingly transferred the problem to the new relay ..... resulting in a melted relay base 5 years later.
I still use the relay, but have discarded the base and used the method above to terminate it.)

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BillV

· #3 · 11 d ago (Edited)

2

We need better pics of your connectors that show the latch and shell details. Is this yours? Look carefully, for example, are the two lower contacts wider than the top three that run to the stator?

The biggest problem with this connector is that it isn't sealed, which invites corrosion and contact failure. Crimped connections are claimed to be as good as soldered. But that assumes that you have the correct crimping tools, which can cost hundreds of dollars. If you're going to replace both sides you might consider upgrading to a better connector.

BTW, I have a K4 600 service manual that shows a five lead R/R connector. But my K6 750 manual shows a four lead connector to the main harness and a separate three lead connector to the stator, the same as my K6 1000. This suggests that yours should be the same.

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Eugsxr

Discussion Starter · #4 · 11 d ago

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7

BillV said:
We need better pics of your connectors that show the latch and shell details. Is this yours? Look carefully, for example, are the two lower contacts wider than the top three that run to the stator?

The biggest problem with this connector is that it isn't sealed, which invites corrosion and contact failure. Crimped connections are claimed to be as good as soldered. But that assumes that you have the correct crimping tools, which can cost hundreds of dollars. If you're going to replace both sides you might consider upgrading to a better connector.

BTW, I have a K4 600 service manual that shows a five lead R/R connector. But my K6 750 manual shows a four lead connector to the main harness and a separate three lead connector to the stator, the same as my K6 1000. This suggests that yours should be the same.

hi mate thanks for the post! I’ve added some more pictures here of the connectors, added one also for the wiring return you mentioned. I’m in the UK if that helps at all - for where on earth I could pickup a replacement cream coloured connector?

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Eugsxr

Discussion Starter · #5 · 11 d ago

Engenia said:
Seen THAT before.
If it is what I think it is, this feeds power to most of the bike. The current flow is hefty and the wire is only crimped to the blade connector. Over time the mechanical connection between the copper wire strands and the blade connector weaken and oxidise, gradually building a high resistance joint which heats up and melts the housing and damages the male-female connection. Everything turns to hell in a hat-basket.

Your best bet is to

replace the housings unless they can be cleaned up.

replace the damaged blade pins with the thickest/strongest ones you can find

clean up the wire so that it can be soldered in step 5

crimp the wire to the pin as hard as you can.

solder the crimp

Do that and you'll be fine.

(I didn't realise the significance of using crimped joints with these connectors and didn't solder them. I installed a 30 Amp relay to take the load off of the damaged connection, and unknowingly transferred the problem to the new relay ..... resulting in a melted relay base 5 years later.
I still use the relay, but have discarded the base and used the method above to terminate it.)

hi! Thanks so much for taking the time to reply, do you know where I can pickup the cream Coloured connector? I have all the crimping tools and pins but cannot find that connector anywhere (UK). Thanks again

Eugsxr

Discussion Starter · #6 · 11 d ago

Eugsxr said:
hi! Thanks so much for taking the time to reply, do you know where I can pickup the cream Coloured connector? I have all the crimping tools and pins but cannot find that connector anywhere (UK). Thanks again

Have also added a few more images of connectors/wiring

BillV

· #7 · 11 d ago

I continue to question a 5 pin connector on a K7 600. As best I can tell, the parts fiche indicates that it was used through K5. Then they switched to a 3 pin plus a 4 pin connector. Something's not right.

The pics that I posted above were from AliExpress. I realize now that the black male connector is part of the R/R and not sold separately. See this and this. Furthermore I didn't go through all the listings but, of those I did, every seller of the female connector sells it with attached leads. Go figure. The only seller of the female terminal with uncrimped terminals that I could find is Cycle Terminal (about 2/3 of the way down). You could try it but there's a good chance that it will fail again unless you can somehow replace the male terminals. You could also ask him if he knows where to get the male connector.

The male connector does exist. See this from ten years ago. I'm unimpressed that he didn't list his source or part numbers. I have a 2009 Sumitomo connector catalog and neither connector is in it. A 5 pin connector is unusual and a mix of .250" and .312" (.305?) contacts is very unusual. Maybe it's by Yazaki or Furukawa.

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Monolith

· #8 · 10 d ago

Just test the stator, if its good, its good, if its bad, replace it.

Yellow wires = 3 wires from the stator.

If the stator checks out good, test the rectifier and bettery next. Something spiked and got hot. My bet is its just time to replace the stator.

TwistedMister

· #9 · 10 d ago

stay away from ANYTHING Chynese in regards to electrical or engine, bobs and bits whatever but anything safety related, wiring electronic engine, AVOID AT ALL COSTS!

also at roadstercycles he shows how to do the direct to battery nod with inline fuse or breaker, I suggest both, mosfet, be done with it for good then celan and pack all your connectors with dielectric grease.. especially if you ride in rain or high humidity areas

Engenia

· #10 · 10 d ago (Edited)

Eugsxr said:
.. where I can pickup the cream Coloured connector? ...cannot find that connector anywhere (UK).

I'm at a loss. Never seen it before.
The housing doesn't look that far gone though. If you are careful you may be able to clean it up & reuse it. At worst, the damaged part of the housing could be cut away and the female tab pin simply slid into position once the remainder of the housing is slid into place.
The melted section of the black housing looks like it was caused by the female tab. The blade needs a bit of oxide removal, but should be ok.

I'd be replacing every female tab pin that looks even remotely like it's been hot. Check the crimp as well.
Any you replace, solder after crimping. Solder the crimps of those you retain.

If you replace with the plug from AliExpress, as per Bill's post, remove the pins and have a very close look at them. Chinese tab pins are not generally that good. The housing will be fine. If you can find alternative pins made to the NEMA, BS or AS standards, use them.

Eugsxr

Discussion Starter · #11 · 10 d ago

2

Engenia said:
I'm at a loss. Never seen it before.
The housing doesn't look that far gone though. If you are careful you may be able to clean it up & reuse it. At worst, the damaged part of the housing could be cut away and the female tab pin simply slid into position once the remainder of the housing is slid into place.
The melted section of the black housing looks like it was caused by the female tab. The blade needs a bit of oxide removal, but should be ok.

I'd be replacing every female tab pin that looks even remotely like it's been hot. Check the crimp as well.
Any you replace, solder after crimping. Solder the crimps of those you retain.

If you replace with the plug from AliExpress, as per Bill's post, remove the pins and have a very close look at them. Chinese tab pins are not generally that good. The housing will be fine. If you can find alternative pins made to the NEMA, BS or AS standards, use them.

Hi again

This from Wemoto/Electrex looks to be the one? What do you reckon.. the strangest thing about it after searching the code parts..... is this a bloody Honda replacement!

Product Font Screenshot Parallel Rectangle

When searching the same product code......

Product Font Screenshot Parallel Rectangle

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BillV

· #12 · 10 d ago (Edited)

The parts fiche says that the K7 600 R/R looks like this:

So either someone has replaced the OEM R/R with a Honda part or you don't have a K7 600. Given where you're currently at, I'd be inclined to buy the Electrex part and the female connector that Cycle Terminal sells. However I got onto the Electrex website. A search didn't find the AC7569 but there were several that might work and are sold with the R/R and mating connector/terminals. Perhaps one of them will work. See this and the following page. The one that you found might be this.

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Engenia

· #13 · 9 d ago

That's what it looks like on the 2010 too. Much bigger heatsinking than what @Eugsxr has, but that doesn't mean much.
I'm all for alternatives, if they are a compatible improvement. There are MOSFETs around now that have drain resistances in the milli-Ohms, unheard of 10 years ago, meaning they can carry 10 Amps and dissipate the heat into a circuit board. BJTs can't hope to match that.

Eugsxr

Discussion Starter · #14 · 6 d ago

@Engenia Hi again! Bought myself a multimeter that should be here shortly. Do you have any the readings that are expected/bad of that of a fried stator/rectifier, which wires to read from etc?

if not where should I be looking

thanks

TwistedMister

· #15 · 6 d ago

test the 3 leads off the stator, unplug the R/R form stator test all 3 leads off stator.. plug R/R back in then start test battery at idle, should be 14.5 or so.. battery should read 12+ not running ..

doesn't matter which direction you test, battery back or stator forward, it must run tho for stator and R/R test.. you need about 50 volts @ around 5000 RPM thereabouts, again at battery at idle about 14.5.. not running battery wants to read 12+ lots of utoob vids how to do this, service manual

sometimes you can enter your multi meter model and then the test and someone is using said model meter so you know what settings to use, between the service manual, utoob and here you should be able to figure it out fairly easy

I don't think your gen falls into this but many newer cars are having serious issues when running until battery dies with bad alternator, computer failures expensive fix so not a good idea to unplug battery connections when running, I believe 05-06 is safe form that tho, someone might know this? its tempting to fire it up, test at battery then unplug stator when running and test that, I don't recommend on newer anything, computes are sensitive specially a Hyundai so not good to run until engine shuts down when alternator is bad.. bout $2500

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TwistedMister

· #16 · 6 d ago

stator test;

TwistedMister

· #17 · 6 d ago

I do recommend upgrading charging system regardless especially if you water wash and or ride in the wet... roadster cycles has good ideas, the direct to battery mod with the inline voltage guage, fuse or breaker is a fantastic idea.. why bikes don't have gauges is beyond me, idiot lights are for idiots.. a gauge lets you know in time to test system and address before you run out 300 miles form no where, they are easy to wire in and they make attractive digital and analog gauges, easy to place with velcro .. the upgraded shingen stator and mosfet R/Ris the way to go here with direct to battery mod.. everything electrical on older bikes just works better for instance, no dash light flicker at idle, smoother ignition, better startups, all teh way around just better ..

you can research what mosfet is, metal oxide semiconductor field effect transistor .. with insulated gates

dunno what this guy is using for an R/R but it looks good.. prolly mosfet.. I think they are anodizing them cuz folks are putting them up front where they can get air passing over them.. not a bad idea but on yours you can just locate it under the right rear foot rest.. again heavy duty velcro right to the under tail, good enough, the mosfet runs cooler anyway so many do not worry but it cannot hurt to put it out in the open..

also be sure to go over all your connectors, plugs.. clean them with electrical cleaner like a good Deoxit, they offer small brushes if its real crusty and corroded, then pack every connector with dielectric grease, go over it with heat shrink packed with grease to insulate from water only if you used mosfet as everything runs cooler, if not then it may just get hotter, but at least pack connectors to prevent arcing which is another enemy of the connector that can cause issue specially in the ignition and ECU arena.. basically go over all your wiring make sure nothingis broke or melted, and everything is making good clean contact

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TwistedMister

· #18 · 6 d ago

Eugsxr

Discussion Starter · #19 · 5 d ago

TwistedMister said:
I do recommend upgrading charging system regardless especially if you water wash and or ride in the wet... roadster cycles has good ideas, the direct to battery mod with the inline voltage guage, fuse or breaker is a fantastic idea.. why bikes don't have gauges is beyond me, idiot lights are for idiots.. a gauge lets you know in time to test system and address before you run out 300 miles form no where, they are easy to wire in and they make attractive digital and analog gauges, easy to place with velcro .. the upgraded shingen stator and mosfet R/Ris the way to go here with direct to battery mod.. everything electrical on older bikes just works better for instance, no dash light flicker at idle, smoother ignition, better startups, all teh way around just better ..

you can research what mosfet is, metal oxide semiconductor field effect transistor .. with insulated gates

dunno what this guy is using for an R/R but it looks good.. prolly mosfet.. I think they are anodizing them cuz folks are putting them up front where they can get air passing over them.. not a bad idea but on yours you can just locate it under the right rear foot rest.. again heavy duty velcro right to the under tail, good enough, the mosfet runs cooler anyway so many do not worry but it cannot hurt to put it out in the open..

also be sure to go over all your connectors, plugs.. clean them with electrical cleaner like a good Deoxit, they offer small brushes if its real crusty and corroded, then pack every connector with dielectric grease, go over it with heat shrink packed with grease to insulate from water only if you used mosfet as everything runs cooler, if not then it may just get hotter, but at least pack connectors to prevent arcing which is another enemy of the connector that can cause issue specially in the ignition and ECU arena.. basically go over all your wiring make sure nothingis broke or melted, and everything is making good clean contact

Thankyou so much for the detailed responses. Very much appreciated

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