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Discussion Starter #1
I'm putting a Ki 1000 togehter that I bought in pieces and need some help.

Can I disconnect the breathers from the head and crankcase to the airbox and reroute it out the bottom to the atmosphere?
Also, does the AP sensor by the ECU have a vacum connection? The nipple under the sensor looks like it might get a vacum hose.
How about the TRE module from Ivan ?????????

Any suggestions on gearing ? I hear 16/44 is good ?

Thank's,
 

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I can only answer 1 question definitively. The Ap sensor has no vacuum hose.
( Mine didn't from day 1)
 

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Oh yeah, the TRE sucks IMO. After I installed one (IVAN's) my idle would lope,
my bike would run hotter and any acceleration benefit was cancelled out at
a light or in traffic watching my temp gauge soar to 230 and trying to keep
it idling. Needless to say I yanked it about 500 miles later. I would use it on
the track though as it did pull harder from 3k to 6k rpm.
 

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I've had the TRE mod in my 750Y for about 3 months and I like it. IMHO it didn't really make that much of a difference. I had to lower the idle a hair, but it smoothed out 1st and 2nd at low RPMs and the throttle's a little crisper. Its Power Commander friendly and it was definitely worth the $15 and 5 minutes I spent on it. I would imagine alot depends on which E-code your bike has, and your bikes specific setup. I have the E-33 750Y (cali model) thats pretty heavily restricted straight from the factory. But hey, worse comes to worse, it can always be at the bottom of a trash can in under 5 mins.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
There are a couple of different TRE'S, that range from $20.00 to $100.00.
What's the deal.
The one from Ivan is $100.00, but I've seen them from fuel Moto one E-Bay for $25.00
 

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I got mine from Checkered Flag Motorsports on eBay. He also has the PAIR mod for sale, which I just put on today. Right now theres a 'buy it now' listing that includes both mods for $40 after shipping.
 

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GeeserGixxer,

Don't you think that maybe the reason why you were running higher temps with the TRE is because it WAS making more power? More power equals higher temps!!! I have a Y2K 750 with the TRE, PAIR, 1k cam, iridium plugs and NEVER see over 195 and I live in Florida!!! Put the TRE back in and get yourself some Engine Ice (or waterwetter), do the fan switch mod,a nd use some common sense.

Keith
Tractionless
 

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Do any of you actually know what the TRE does???

Timing Retard Elliminator. Simple as that!!! In the lower gears at lower rpms the timing is reduced just a smidge, likely only a degree or two.

Being this only takes place in the lower gears and lower rpm's your bike should NOT get hot or anything of the sort from it. The TRE also does not create more power. On a dyno run your bike will have a slight dip in the power band because of the time being reduced, but its not much, not much at all. Bascially the bike will feel like it pulls harder because it pulls smoother without that dip in the low end. The TRE does nothing for your mid our top end, nothing nodda zilch. Go to a dyno and you will see.

The solution to a funky idle is a TRE with a on/off switch. You can make it for $10 or less!!! Ive made about 15 of them for less than 10 bucks and sold them and installed them on local guys bikes for $25 each.

With an active and "on" TRE your bike should idle lower while cold. Once up to operating temp it should hidle a little high or even bounce at idle a bit. When you pull the clutch in, it is the same as turning the TRE off. The clutch safety swith circut will cut the TRE and your bike will behave as if the TRE is off.

Reason for a swithable TRE is so you can turn it off and allow your bike to warm up properly while not bogging along at a low idle. At a light i always sit with my bike in gear and just hold the clutch in. Good safety measure anyhow incase you need to suddenly scoot out of the way of a out of control car.

I live in MI and both my 750's run in the low 215 range even on 30 degree days, TRE on or off.

Pair mod is another rather gimic. Dyno run a bike back to back and you see no change at all, nothing. But your bike will usually crackle and pop more if you remove it.

On a 2000 GSXR750 im working on the AP sensor in the rear does have a hose, but it hooks to nothing.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Wera276,
good info thanks !
Not clear though, did you make the on off switch for the TRE ? or the TRE itself /
Still don't know which one to get
 

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I made the TRE unit with a switch. All you need is some wire, some sodder, some tape, the resistor and about 20 minutes.

I will admitt the TRE does work. The timing reduction is something suzuki has placed on bikes for years. On older bike with carbs , they use to call it the "wheelie wire" People would cut it. Reduction of the timing at the points suzuki chose help the bike pass the sniffer DOT tests while lowering torque a bit wich aids in average street owners being able to ride the bike safer. That little dip in torque keeps less experienced riders from going wheel in the air as easy when not intended........but then as I said, not much.

Your bike with no TRE will still go just as fast for street or race......but it will have that very light dip in the torque.

People just read to much into the TRE and think its some majic, "WOW" my bike is fast type of mod. when it is not. Its something like tweaking your PC map a few % points here and there to smooth things out and allow the power to build and pull un interupted.....thus feeling faster because its constantly pulling with no lag.
 
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