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Discussion Starter #1
I just upgraded from stock OEM pads to Vesrah RJL's (going on my '06 SV650S but I have a complete '05 GSX-R600 front end and calipers). Just wondering what I need to do to prep the rotors and break the pads in. Keep in mind this bike is for the racetrack only.
 

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1. take the rotors off the wheels

2. spray them generously with non-chlorinated brake cleaner

3. use a new scotch-brite pad to scour the rotors ON BOTH SIDES (you would be surprised how many people forget that rotors have 2 sides that need to be cleaned)

4. don't touch the rotor surface after that, hold the rotors by the mounting points while putting them back on the wheel

as for bedding in the pads, do like 5-6 slow stops using gentle pressure on the lever from about 30-40mph, and gradually increase the speed and pressure up to about 60mph and full pressure over the next 5-6 stops. you should be good by that point.
 

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1. take the rotors off the wheels

2. spray them generously with non-chlorinated brake cleaner

3. use a new scotch-brite pad to scour the rotors ON BOTH SIDES (you would be surprised how many people forget that rotors have 2 sides that need to be cleaned)

4. don't touch the rotor surface after that, hold the rotors by the mounting points while putting them back on the wheel

as for bedding in the pads, do like 5-6 slow stops using gentle pressure on the lever from about 30-40mph, and gradually increase the speed and pressure up to about 60mph and full pressure over the next 5-6 stops. you should be good by that point.
Minor difference, but I use spray brake cleaner to wash down the rotors when they're off the wheels. Does a good job of quickly washing off the dust, grime, and covers a lot more area than a wipe down

But, I just put the rotors back on my wheel, and remount it. Then right before I put the calipers on, I use take a cloth or paper towel, soak some acetone on it, and do a final wipedown of the pad area on the rotors.

That way, I know they're perfectly dry / clean when the pads go on, and I dont have to worry about accidentally touching them during install (esp with dirty hands or gloves)

On other thing - I like the rotor hones for prepping rotors when switching between types of pads, or sometimes if the rotors get really glazed. Rotor hones are AWESOME :) Very consistent, pretty fast too
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Awesome info guys!!! Thank you.

Are there any particular brands of brake cleaner that you do or do not recommend?

Any scuffing of the pads?

On a side note, Anthony D, I just saw your sig....I'm sorry about your Dad man. Hope you're doing ok.
 

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Awesome info guys!!! Thank you.

Are there any particular brands of brake cleaner that you do or do not recommend?

Any scuffing of the pads?

On a side note, Anthony D, I just saw your sig....I'm sorry about your Dad man. Hope you're doing ok.
nope, any brake cleaner will do. and no, i don't scuff new pads, i let them seat themselves on the rotors.

and i appreciate the thoughts, he is not suffering anymore, so i am happy about that.
 

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I also like to put the rotors on a flat surface to make sure they are perfectly flat. Granite counter, sheet of glass from a picture frame etc.
 

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Becareful on the first stop you come to as you wont have much or any "bite" to the new pads once you scuff the rotors, it will take a good 5 stops to get them somewhat back.
 

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I removed old pads, sprayed brake clean, scuffed pads. Replaced Vesrah RJL's. Rode around the block a few times felt fine.

Removed tire warmers, barreled out of hot pit and into turn 1 like normal. Surprised at how superior the RJL's are to EBC HH's. Been great since.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
1. take the rotors off the wheels

2. spray them generously with non-chlorinated brake cleaner

3. use a new scotch-brite pad to scour the rotors ON BOTH SIDES (you would be surprised how many people forget that rotors have 2 sides that need to be cleaned)

4. don't touch the rotor surface after that, hold the rotors by the mounting points while putting them back on the wheel

as for bedding in the pads, do like 5-6 slow stops using gentle pressure on the lever from about 30-40mph, and gradually increase the speed and pressure up to about 60mph and full pressure over the next 5-6 stops. you should be good by that point.
I'm assuming you wipe down the rotors again after you scotch brite them right?
 

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If you remove the rotors, might as well have them media blasted. Better than Scotch-Brite IMHO.
 

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Welcome back from the dead thread :D Dont really see the point in beveling the pads, might work good for a street bike for noises and shit but your just shaving off the surface area of the pad, kind of counterproductive.
 

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I'm assuming you wipe down the rotors again after you scotch brite them right?
i wash them off, i don't wipe them down. keeps all the oils of the rotors.

If you remove the rotors, might as well have them media blasted. Better than Scotch-Brite IMHO.
scotch-brite = free. media blasting = not free, and hard to find someone who does it. not to mention media blasting is not necessary.
 

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x2 on Ant.

and NEVER scuff the pads. thats where all your bedding material in at, on the surface.
The "bedding" material is not some special coating that sits on the surface of the pad when they are new, the bedding material is the entire pad material. Bedding is the process of depositing a thin layer of brake pad material onto the rotor. A pad that's brand new or one that has 1000 miles on it can be bedded onto a new rotor.

There's nothing wrong with scuffing the pads, especially if they have been glazed from use.


Welcome back from the dead thread :D Dont really see the point in beveling the pads, might work good for a street bike for noises and shit but your just shaving off the surface area of the pad, kind of counterproductive.
I think you are confused as to the purpose of what that is being done for.


 

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No need, but if you want to feel like a factory team badass you can chamfer the leading edge of the pads like so, LOL
I do it on the rear, so tire changes are easier. Getting the rear rotor into the caliper can be a bitch :D

If you remove the rotors, might as well have them media blasted. Better than Scotch-Brite IMHO.
Media blasting is wAY over kill, and can remove rotor material which is not ideal



I honestly dont do anything except clean the calipers, for new pads unless I am changing "type". IE going from a sintered metal to carbon.

If I am not changing type, I gradually get on them to be sure they bed in and do not hot spot. Not much more.

For new ROTORS, I always start with new pads as well, and Basically follow this. I gradually work up to full braking, while heat cycling the rotors carefully. Unfortunately it is almsot impossible to do on the track, so I end up doing it on the street next to my house :D. Luckily I live in the country lol

http://www.ebcbrakes.com/motorcycle_brake/x_and_xc_series_fully_floating_disc_rotor/xcbedding.shtml

For Track use – As above but with speeds of 80-90 Mph down to 50 Mph 2-3 times per lap for a minimum of 5 laps but moderate braking is needed rather than light or heavy gradually increasing the brake force on the last lap of 5. If Strobe marks still remain, continue the procedure for 2-3 lap or until the strobe stripes have gone and a full width pad contact is observed on both the pads and the rotors, remove the pads and inspect for 95% minimum surface contact on the rotor
 
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